Another very nice bike, however, I must admit I'd like to have the electric start and the left side shift. Every bike I've had has had the left side shift and the one time I rode a friends bike with the ride side shift it seemed totally foreign to me and the first time I used it I locked up the rear brake. Thank God I didn't dump it.
1973 Hi-Rider original equipment
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grandpaul
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Well, if you are starting with a '73, you'll need about $3,000 to budget for an e-start. Then, you'll need an inner & outer cover from a '75 transmission, plus the crossover shaft bits, and you'll need to have your primary cases properly holed for the shaft, including a shoulder weld build-up on the outer case to support shifter pressures. With the e-start, you won't need to worry about oil seals as the kits include dry belt setup (2 of the 3 available kits do, anyway - not Alton)
Tornado
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No, later ones were metal, just like Roadster tanks changed to metal.
Fast Eddie
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If you want left hand shift and electric start… BY FAR the most cost effective approach would be to sell your bike and buy a MK3…
marshg246
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Actually, a well sorted drum works quite well! You do have to get the adjustments exactly right. If not right the dual leading shoes become basically a single leading shoe with around 1/2 of the stopping power.
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Fibreglass tanks were outlawed in the UK on new builds from July 1973. Hi-Riders were the last to have fibreglass tanks.
Tornado
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Hadn't heard they were outlawed. What was the reasoning back then?
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I've mentioned it a few times before.
Presumably, because they could split open.
The Road Vehicles (Construction and Use) Regulations 1986
(Updated 1986)
"Petrol tanks
39.—(1) Subject to paragraph (2), every tank containing petroleum spirit (as defined in section 23 of the Petroleum (Consolidation) Act 1928 which is fitted to a wheeled vehicle first used on or after 1st July 1973, and is used either for the propulsion of the vehicle or for driving an ancillary engine or equipment forming part of the vehicle shall be—
(a)made only of metal;
(b)fixed in such a position and so maintained as to be reasonably secure from damage; and
(c)constructed and maintained so that the leakage of any liquid or vapour from the tank is adequately prevented, so, however, that the tank may be fitted with a device which, by the intake of air or the emission of vapour, relieves changes of pressure in the tank."
As I said in my post, I'd "like" to have electric start and left side shift. I didn't intend to actually swap it over to those set-ups, and after you've just explained the cost, work, and trouble to do so, I'm sure I won't be making those changes. Thanks for the info.
At this point, even disregarding the cost you quoted, I'll keep the kickstart only, right shift, left brake, just because of it's being unusual compared to later standardized control placing and e-starting. I tend to be drawn to the unusual and have a couple of "oddball bikes".
NORTSTER1974
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When I put that motor together it was tighter than a bull's ass. KibbleWhite, Beryillium seats, Tri Spark, Podtronics, Premeirs, etc..Started first kick. I just reached the point where the push button was more appealing, so I installed an Alton. Much happier now. Kaching, Kaching, $$, but it saves wear and tear on the old bones.
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grandpaul
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I failed to mention that the MkIII engine I got for a grand was in perfect condition. It needed nothing. You'll easily spend that much on a proper Commando engine overhaul, no matter the year (they are so very similar).
Problem is, those deals are few and far between.
There have been references made about MkIII, MkIV, etc. What would my 1973 750 Hi-Rider be considered?
marshg246
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MkIV is 1972, MkV is 1973 but it's serial number based not title year based.
For more info: https://gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/CommandoID.aspx
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In context, MkIII typically refers to an 850 MkIII with left shift, e-start etc.
In 750 terms, the year is more typically used, and as Greg says, the serial number is key.
I think it's fair to say there are a lot of forum members who ride both left and right shift bikes, and it's just something you get used to.
Ducati were still fitting fibreglass tanks to their homologated production race bikes in 1975, and Laverda were still selling right shift bikes in 1980.
Deckard
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To my knowledge, there was never a regulation in the USA about prohibiting fiberglass fuel tanks. There was regulation about rear brake and transmission shifter placement and shift pattern beginning in 1975. Even HD sportsters had to swap sides for brake & shifter.
I like the 1 up, 3 or 4 down on my Commandos ( 5 speed). You'll never miss an up shift. As well as less strain on your shift foot. I changed my Ducati's shifter to the same pattern. Less confusion about direction and the Duc's transmission is far more effort to move the lever upwards
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Some of us consider the " Mk V " the best of the 750's . the best sorted , off the shelf , anyway .
You get way more rowdy top end noise , or hear it , with the tiny tank . ONE COULD do a ' remote ' r to L shift ,
using Dunstalish stuff ( cobbled up ) particularly if you wanted to rear set the footrests .
Using a ' cross over ' shaft , up back somewhere .
some have halved the
mount length , to shift them back a bit . The Hi rider Tanks good for clambering about & shiftig forward as you
corner with Dash & Elan .
Flat or reversed ' ace ' bars .
The Woiks wacers wan 33 Concentics . BORED . 32 mk IIs'd flow about as much . better manifolds with a bit more downdraft &
the carbs back so the just get under the cross brace web , let ' wind out ' rather well .
No harm in throwing a real rear wheel in , with a real brake . BUt the ' Mk V " had all the ' good stuff ' stock , so is the best base
for a bit of livelying up . You couldnt give those seats away , once . Should be plenty floating about to butcher for a tail fairing set up .
Best to just get used to it itself , as it is , for a while , before you go causeing to much hacoc to its persona . a lot of ' dialed in ' machines
are corrupted by premature personalising , usually in bad taste & non period paraphanalia . So Go Easy . And save the loot for ' rignle bits '
You get way more rowdy top end noise , or hear it , with the tiny tank . ONE COULD do a ' remote ' r to L shift ,
using Dunstalish stuff ( cobbled up ) particularly if you wanted to rear set the footrests .
Using a ' cross over ' shaft , up back somewhere .
some have halved the
mount length , to shift them back a bit . The Hi rider Tanks good for clambering about & shiftig forward as you
corner with Dash & Elan .
Flat or reversed ' ace ' bars .The Woiks wacers wan 33 Concentics . BORED . 32 mk IIs'd flow about as much . better manifolds with a bit more downdraft &
the carbs back so the just get under the cross brace web , let ' wind out ' rather well .
No harm in throwing a real rear wheel in , with a real brake . BUt the ' Mk V " had all the ' good stuff ' stock , so is the best base
for a bit of livelying up . You couldnt give those seats away , once . Should be plenty floating about to butcher for a tail fairing set up .
Best to just get used to it itself , as it is , for a while , before you go causeing to much hacoc to its persona . a lot of ' dialed in ' machines
are corrupted by premature personalising , usually in bad taste & non period paraphanalia . So Go Easy . And save the loot for ' rignle bits '
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Upon looking at the Greg Marsh Commando identification chart linked above, it looks like they were offered in both 750cc and 850cc displacements in 1973. Does that seem correct? It seems odd to me they would offer both in the same year, unless the 750 was being phased out and the 850 ushered in sometime mid-year.
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Yes, so 750 MkV and 850 Mk1.
The 750 was phased out during 1973 but the 850 was already in production so both were available.
850 available from March and the last 750 is supposed to be 230935 (October '73).
