second alton starter failure - WTF?

kommando said:

I would be guessing but if a thread has not been formed correctly or the two faces on nut and the driven plate do not have full engagement then you will have the issue. Seems odd to rely on just a thin area on the nut for the 65lbs to be transferred and so few threads, probably just manages on a good set of parts and dubious if any part is compromised. Yves solution is the best, even a nut with a greater number of threads and a large Belville washer would be an improvement.

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That was exactly my thinking and why I reversed the nut with a thick Bellville washer underneath it.

As I have said before, my Alton has been totally bulletproof/superb since early '13. Haven't adjusted/checked anything related since then. That being said, if I had the recurrent problems being stated here, I would toss the components in the trash can, bite the bullet and purchase the CNW starter...even though I don't want a belt drive and DO want the OEM Ham Can. Life's full of compromises!

I was looking to see if I had any pics of when I installed my Alton but can't find any/don't remember actually taking any. And, of course, I don't have the instructions/any notes I made at the time. I don't recall any issue or question I had concerning the nut that has been discussed. SEEMS like I remember a washer and the stepped side of that nut facing the engine. But I could be remembering wrong...

I think the design is too close to the line. There are too many variables that could mean the difference between success and failure.

Regarding whether or not to use a washer, I am not convinced that is will make the difference. The nut already is larger across flats than the original alternator nut, and a Belleville washer any larger than 30 mm OD with be pushing on the 2mm thick section of the drive flange, not doing very much, and possibly distorting it. Just MHO....

However, I have been considering a larger flat washer to support the area where my hub sheered out. Just trying to decide if it would help or create more carnage if the hub sheered out again....

I haven't seen an Alton, nor do I want to, but If the front triple sprocket needs to be doweled to the Altron part, why aren't a bunch on them machined for the dowels to fit and then a core charge could be charged for your old one and then you could have a workable starter.

Used triple sprockets could be used as they are very rarely worn and could be had cheaply as all people who have installed belt drive no longer need them. Norton did a great job and them sprockets and they last a few life times.

But there are other issues I have with the Alton. and I like the CNW a lot because belt drive, the use of a Lucas stator and it's life time warrantee.

BUT if clamping load is an issue maybe you should use more tork on the rotor nut and check the tork several times after the first use and then after a few more starts. I have never seen directions I can not improve and use my methods to improve the design. or assmebly procedures

When I was younger, I used to tighten the hell out of the clutch nut and rotor nut, and front sprocket nut. They can take it. I've backed it down some now a days. But a least with a belt drive you can easily remove the primary cover or leave it off for the few start ups and do the needed retorking and checks.

joe czech said:

Peter - thanks for the reply. not sure i fully understand what you mean by "switch gear." do you mean the Lucas handlebar switch assembly ? also, a little more detail on the "relay £5".

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Sorry, only just seen this.
Yes the switch gear including the starter button.
I just bought a generic automobile relay from Amazon, in fact they came as a pack of two.
I’m still using it although I’m not sure I need it now I’ve replaced the switchgear.

when I fitted the Alton I replaced the complete ignition system and have now rewired the bike.

starter is impressive and the motor never fails to fire as soon as the motor turns.

one thing that concerns me about some of the modifications mentioned above can affect the warrant.
I guess it doesn’t matter if the warranty has expired!

peter12 said:

one thing that concerns me about some of the modifications mentioned above can affect the warrant.
I guess it doesn’t matter if the warranty has expired!

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The best warranty to have is the one you never have to use... Warranty is not much solace when you are broke down on the side of the road.

I have kept Alton apprised of my intentions, and would much prefer that they make the changes rather than me.

Plus I want to be able to recommend their kit to other Norton owners - and right now, I cannot do so in good conscience....