grandpaul
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- Jan 15, 2008
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It faces inwards, with the bellville washer around it.What purpose does the lip serve if it's facing outwards?
It faces inwards, with the bellville washer around it.What purpose does the lip serve if it's facing outwards?
in the big scheme of things, as long as you have full thread engagement, probably doesn't matter whether the flange is in or out.it provides lip service.... but seriously, it ensures proper clamping, by default.
If it were mine, I wouldn’t use that serrated bevel washer, removing it a few times will chew up that alloy rotor terribly.not flaming anyone, but one thing i see in cliffa's photo - the retaining nut, with the flange outward and the belleville washer, appears that the nut does not have a full , 100% thread engagement on the crankshaft. i always try use the minimum 1-1/2 thread showing on the male threads on any fastener.
note, on my Mk2, the retaining nut has full thread engagement w/ some crank thread showing. i also have sufficient clearance to add a bellville washer to the assembly. i would imaging, most likely, no two bikes are the same.
good point....If it were mine, I wouldn’t use that serrated bevel washer, removing it a few times will chew up that alloy rotor terribly.
None, but as I wanted to use a Bellville washer to keep the tension and it would not fit over the lip I reversed the nut. It was 4 years ago and I don't remember if the lip would have fitted between the crank and the sprag anyway.What purpose does the lip serve if it's facing outwards?
They may have been when they left the factory, but who knows what has been changed in the intervening years. For example mine has a Norvil belt drive and a Maney outrigger within the primary." i would imaging, most likely, no two bikes are the same ".
Does that mean you run the primary dry Cliffa?They may have been when they left the factory, but who knows what has been changed in the intervening years. For example mine has a Norvil belt drive and a Maney outrigger within the primary.
Yep. the next job on my agenda is to change out the clutch centre for a CNW one, so I'll be checking how it's looking in there some time soon.Does that mean you run the primary dry Cliffa?
And the Alton gubbins are happy running dry ?Yep. the next job on my agenda is to change out the clutch centre for a CNW one, so I'll be checking how it's looking in there some time soon.
I'm pretty sure I checked with Alton and on here and it's ok to do so.And the Alton gubbins are happy running dry ?
With the greatest of respect I think you are over thinking this drive unitDid a little more work this morning - this looks easier to make:
View attachment 80302
Two changes:
1. Hex replaced by 2 drive tangs (5/8" wide, ~1/2" of engagement) - easier to produce
2. Countersunk screws holding drive member to main engine sprocket replaced by low head socket head screws - can loosen tolerances,
FWIW
YepAnd the Alton gubbins are happy running dry ?
It's only 'thingies' that need oil (of the correct grade, of course!).....And the Alton gubbins are happy running dry ?
As I like to say, anything worth doing is worth over doing - LOL!!With the greatest of respect I think you are over thinking this drive unit
I own Yves old system and it works perfectly
I had to modify it a bit more because he was running a chain primary
And I'm running a belt drive
I remade the adaptor plate plate out of an old handrail bracket (the bit with 3 woodscrew holes) I already had the sprag clutch that Yves had ground two flats on
Maybe you could be persuaded to do a run of them ?As I like to say, anything worth doing is worth over doing - LOL!!
I just do not ever want to experience the failures that I have had ever again. And my bike, my money, my shop, my time, my steel - so my rules
Good to know that the Yves fix is till serving well - gives me confidence that the work that I am doing will be successful.
Cheers!
I was lucky to have Yves setup to copy ,as I said in an earlier post I also incorporated the alternator Woodruff keyAs I like to say, anything worth doing is worth over doing - LOL!!
I just do not ever want to experience the failures that I have had ever again. And my bike, my money, my shop, my time, my steel - so my rules
Good to know that the Yves fix is till serving well - gives me confidence that the work that I am doing will be successful.
Cheers!
Real engineers should avert their eyes, all you are making is a big washer with 2 driving flatsAs I like to say, anything worth doing is worth over doing - LOL!!
I just do not ever want to experience the failures that I have had ever again. And my bike, my money, my shop, my time, my steel - so my rules
Good to know that the Yves fix is till serving well - gives me confidence that the work that I am doing will be successful.
Cheers!
I think I want to try it out first, but if it works, I might entertain it. I really don't want to run these in volume, so I would be looking for a machine shop to make them. I will keep folks posted.Maybe you could be persuaded to do a run of them ?
Hello Joe,
Step flange inboard (toward the engine)
Make sure the nut is fully backed against the « rotor » flange when tightened. Normally it goes without washer.
Kind regards
Maxime