Running Problem - UPDATE & HELP possible new problem...

BionicDan said:

Hi Dan
Did you receive the patch lead yet?
I am still waiting for a response from Norton UK...
I am curious to get to know if it works. What I heard so far is that this patch only helps to stop the flickering of fuel light but not neutral indication light.

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Hi Raphi,
Yes, I received the patch lead. Unfortunately, though, there were no instructions/diagrams of where exactly it has to go!
I've asked Simon if he or Stephen if either are able to email me instructions, so I'm waiting to hear.
I'll let you know. However, it's a difficult time of year due to me having put my bikes into hibernation for the winter. If, however, a nice day arrives, I'll take her out for a spin to see what happens.
Will let you know.
Cheers
D

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Could test it yet Dan?

Hi Raphi,

No, not yet.

i. I've written to Simon twice now with a query for himself or Stephen Green at Norton about this, but I've still had no response from either Simon or Stephen. I had an initial response from Simon to say he'll get onto it... that was about 3-4 weeks ago. I've since (a couple of weeks ago) messaged him but no further response whatsoever. I don't know if he's away again and unavailable or maybe just fed up with lots of queries (perhaps?) on this forum. I've no idea.

ii. I haven't had much spare time lately.

iii. I'm waiting for another few weeks anyway when my garage is finally converted, after which I can move my bikes into the larger space for working on. My shed in which my bikes are currently is quite tight.

I'll let you know.

Cheers

D

Someone I know has had this fix and told me it slowly drains the battery so if you don't ride often keep it on a tender. Not sure first hand so just keep an eye on it and report back if this happens to you.

Thanks for that. I will watch.

Hi Richard,

What does "keep it on a tender" mean?

D

Dan, It means to keep it on a battery trickle charger as you would for winter storage.The more sophisticated chargers are called tenders.

If the fix is a capacitor across the DC power supply as we think I don't think that would drain the battery, they do go down in a few weeks anyway so the charger idea is a good one regardless!

My 961 was fuel starved with aftermarket pipes, so I had a dyno fuel mapping done. During the dyno at about 4,000 revs there was total power loss to the fuel injectors and all sorts of lights started flashing, and I had also noted that my indicators were working intermittently. The dyno mechanic discovered a loose ground wire to the engine casing, right side behind the pistons, and the one under the seat was minimally loose. Tightening both resolved all problems. This is worth trying with any electrical problems.

Well as some of you might know I had a broken wire for my turn signal indicator inside the tach. I soldered the wires back together and fixed that problem. Now with just 101 miles on my new bike I now also have the green "N" neutral light that intermittently comes on and off along with the low fuel light. I really hope this isn't going to be a on going problem with this bike. Brand new and already 3 electrical issues. I'll see what I find out this weekend after work. Kinda disappointed so far. My bike is a 2016 SF

There is a fix for that , a separate wire is added to the harness I think . Did you ask Simon Marshall about it yet ? Does your bike have the oil in air box fix ? Ask about this as well when you PM Simon Marshall.

The patch wire only fixes the low fuel indication gremlin but not the neutral indication one...

TonyA said:

There is a fix for that , a separate wire is added to the harness I think . Did you ask Simon Marshall about it yet ? Does your bike have the oil in air box fix ? Ask about this as well when you PM Simon Marshall.

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I didn't have the "N" neutral light come on until the other day. Sometimes it'll come on if I tap the front or rear brakes. Or it'll sometimes come on when I'm cruising down the road. It's very intermittent but annoying and distracting. I have done a wire wiggle test. With the bike parked, engine off, key on and bike in gear I tug and wiggle all the wire and connectors. I can not get the neutral light to come on at all. I've tried putting the shifter in first gear and wiggling the shifter thinking maybe it's a little out of adjustment but no such luck, I wiggle and tug on the neutral switch wiring and plug on the right side of the bike near the clutch. Still no luck. But once I ride it, it comes back on.
On a one mile ride I counted 9 times that it came on. It'll flash off and on for a split second. This happens from 1200-3500 rpm. I haven't wound it out to higher rpm yet due to breaking in the engine. Sometimes when I tap the front or rear brakes it'll flash on. I tugged and wiggled the wiring to and from the speedometer but I can NEVER get it to do it with the bike at a stand still, with key on, engine off, in gear. The weird thing is none of this happened until I hit 100 miles exactly. I know that has nothing to do with it but just weird.

The oil in air box fix.
I have not seen any oil in my air box yet. But I also have a small tube from the air box to a small transparent bottle on the left side of the bike behind the left foot rest. No oil in the bottle either. Clean and dry. But again I only have just over 100 miles on my bike and no RPM over 3500 yet.

My 2016 Mustang Shelby GT350 has oil blow by and we use oil catch cans made and designed by Ford Performance that attach to each valve cover PCV line. The oil and vapors enter from the bottom of the can then filtered crank case psi exit the top of the can back into the engine. It's not uncommon to get 2-4 oz in 5000-7000 miles of street driving of 2-4 oz in one track day race event. But this engine has a flat plane crank and 12.5:1 compression and makes 526 hp naturally aspirated stock and red lines at 8500 RPM.

The flashing neutral light thing was sometimes gone for a while, but came again. I observed that it flashed while using the horn as well in addition to what Voodooo experienced when the break light got in action. There must be an electrical cause and not a wrong adjustment or similar. I switched the plastic tank with the alluminum one and back. And it seems with the alluminum tank the problem doesn't exist... May be due to better blinding???
Raphael, Switzerland

Yes I understand what you are saying . The ( metal ) aluminum tank has better electrical interference shielding . PM Simon Marshall .

My dad has done 1,000 miles with a slight mod to the engine since he rebuilt the bike that he shared with norton over a year ago. Not a drop and no air box fix either. I'll be doing mine this winter. Tear the engine down and inspect the bearings and their cages and trans gears and do the really easy mod to the casing to stop o in airbox and re route the hoses so no more oil.

More to come ..... This winter.

We did a 430 mile round trip to finger lakes today. All day riding. I had about a quarter cup of oil. My dad had zero.

richard-7 said:

the really easy mod to the casing to stop o in airbox and re route the hoses so no more oil.

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Richard,

What is this mod?

Its not straight forward and involves some machining. But its easy for a tool shop or machinist. Or if you were making the
casings and engines from scratch per se.

richard-7 said:

We did a 430 mile round trip to finger lakes today. All day riding. I had about a quarter cup of oil. My dad had zero.

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:shock: Wow - it must work! But I imagine calling it an easy fix is a slight exaggeration. Will this be turned into a new manual at some point? Or maybe even a service Matt at cNw could offer?

I still get the fuel light blip. Its so short and quick, I pay it no mind. Very intermittent. As for the oil in the airbox, when up graded, the dealership just installed a larger diameter nipple and clear tubing instead of the bottle. I like that system. Just pull the plug when and if necessary. Haven't had to pull it yet although I did have a half teaspoon of oil in the air box. Big deal.

I say easy because if they did this at the factory a year ago then there would not be those aftwrmarket fixes.