running like crap - 2000-3000 RPM - a bit stumped and not sure where to go

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Years ago I had good luck sealing Welch plugs with nail polish on small engines, gasoline and two-strokes. It also worked well to lock mixture screws in place. But that was when gas was gas, and nail polish was nail polish.
And yes Swoosh, my favorite color was Hot Pink.
 
dynodave said:
What is the gasoline/ethanol rating from brand X epoxy?

"LOCTITE® 290 is a liquid medium/high-strength threadlocker designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Because of its low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need for disassembly prior to application. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage due to shock and vibration. The product can also fill porosities in welds, castings and powdered metal parts."

90% strength gasoline
80% strength ethanol
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Good Info

Slick
 
The carrier solvent for nail varnish is acetone, in the UK at least there is currently no acetone in petrol.
 
dynodave said:
What is the gasoline/ethanol rating from brand X epoxy?

"LOCTITE® 290 is a liquid medium/high-strength threadlocker designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. Because of its low viscosity and capillary action, the product wicks between engaged threads and eliminates the need for disassembly prior to application. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close-fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage due to shock and vibration. The product can also fill porosities in welds, castings and powdered metal parts."

90% strength gasoline
80% strength ethanol
Click to expand...
Epoxy is generally highly resistant to gasoline. It is used to repair fuel tanks and fittings fairly often, especially in marine industry. The locktite product is a good idea for close fitting sealing like in this case, should be good.
 
FWIW, JB Weld was the standard "fix" for leaking Quadrajet casting plugs which are normally submerged in fuel. As I said earlier, sealing QJ casting plugs was a required fix for early QJs. If your QJ didn't have epoxy-sealed casting plugs, it didn't meter properly.
 
Last non motorcycle carbureted vehicle (73 chevy C-10) I ran was in 1996. Last gasoline I could obtain at the pump for my bikes was around 2005 in Beverly Mass. Now US "spark ignition fuel" called E-10 is all we have here locally for legal use. Why every one says "gasoline" is living in the past or in the stix... Only holley 4 barrel or quadrajets I see are in hot rod magazines or local cruise nights. Any work on my bikes must be E-10 proof. So for me "gasoline proof" is worthless to me...
 
MexicoMike said:
FWIW, JB Weld was the standard "fix" for leaking Quadrajet casting plugs which are normally submerged in fuel. As I said earlier, sealing QJ casting plugs was a required fix for early QJs. If your QJ didn't have epoxy-sealed casting plugs, it didn't meter properly.
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I still have an 85 Oldsmobile with an electronic QJet. And yes, there's JB Weld on the well plugs.
 
maylar said:
I still have an 85 Oldsmobile with an electronic QJet. And yes, there's JB Weld on the well plugs.
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thread seemed to go a bit off-topic, so FWIW -- back in the late 80's - early 90's, used to run a hobby-business, rebuilding and restoring Q-jets for corvettes and old muscle cars. SOP to seal the float bowl plug - pretty much used J-B exclusively.

back on-topic -- today's task - pull the carbs for a full inspection and rebuild. gone through just about everything electrical - still a few to check.
 
and the winner is cliffa -- IT WAS THE F***ING KILL SWITCH!!! bypassed the kill switch and problem solved. the kill switch has always been a bit touchy - always was on the ragged edge of the NO/NC thing. i'm guessing at certain engine RPM, the engine vibration frequency in that 2-3K RPM range was causing the ignition cutout. anyway, that's my story and i'm sticking with it. should have listened to cliffa on post #3 - could have saved me a lot of time and trouble. to close out this thread, thanks to everyone for all the help and suggestions.
 
joe czech said:
and the winner is cliffa -- IT WAS THE F***ING KILL SWITCH!!! bypassed the kill switch and problem solved. the kill switch has always been a bit touchy - always was on the ragged edge of the NO/NC thing. i'm guessing at certain engine RPM, the engine vibration frequency in that 2-3K RPM range was causing the ignition cutout. anyway, that's my story and i'm sticking with it. should have listened to cliffa on post #3 - could have saved me a lot of time and trouble. to close out this thread, thanks to everyone for all the help and suggestions.
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Beer tokens gladly accepted ;)

Glad you found the issue Joe.

Cheers,

cliffa.
 
Good to hear this Joe. My bike serial number is within 50 of Joe's. One thing i have not done yet is cleaned up inside the handlebar switch clusters. This thread is prompting me to do that. I have read about disassembling them in a bag so as not to lose small parts. Any other advice is welcome. Sorry about derailing the Q-jets thread.
 
Saber said:
Good to hear this Joe. My bike serial number is within 50 of Joe's. One thing i have not done yet is cleaned up inside the handlebar switch clusters. This thread is prompting me to do that. I have read about disassembling them in a bag so as not to lose small parts. Any other advice is welcome. Sorry about derailing the Q-jets thread.
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I had mine apart to clean up contacts and then migrate left to right/right to left. Could not get hang of trying to manage turn signal, throttle and brake all on right hand!
Pretty easy to work on innards. Just be cautious with the ball bearings falling out. I used some lithium grease on reassembly which also helped to hold balls and springs in place while tightening down.
 
Good show Joe.... Had that issue in '80 and bypassed. No switch since just use reach down. Again good show.
 
Tornado said:
I had mine apart to clean up contacts and then migrate left to right/right to left. Could not get hang of trying to manage turn signal, throttle and brake all on right hand!
Pretty easy to work on innards. Just be cautious with the ball bearings falling out. I used some lithium grease on reassembly which also helped to hold balls and springs in place while tightening down.
Click to expand...
I used dialectic grease for the dual purpose of holding the fiddly sprint and ball in place and PM for corrosion avoidance . I did manage to
have one of the tiny springs disappear onto the shop floor only to be found a couple of years later. A nice chap mailed me a replacent
for free. Switches are quite simple, just very small parts inside.
 
One of first things I did to my bike was to do away with kill switch.
 
Beach said:
One of first things I did to my bike was to do away with kill switch.
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Interesting how I see people doing this.
I currently have two Nortons with no Kill switch which I will correct soon.
The thought of a stuck or misaligned throttle cable is bother some.
Sure, pull in the clutch with the left hand reach down to left with what to shut it down??
Kill switches are going in.
 
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