Retorquing the cylinder head?

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Jim,

Where do you get your studs from for the cylinder head. Are they original, NOS, OEM of other?

Like the idea of the Aluminum Bronze inserts - good stuff, real good stuff.
 
"One of these days a ride could be fun. Do you have plans on the INOA rally next summer? "Jim

Just looked at the INOA site and that looks about perfect, about 1100miles from here. In the words of George Bush sr., or maybe it was
Dana Carvey, " Got a plan, gonna do it! "

Glen
 
Dances with Shrapnel said:
I like your Aluminum Bronze inserts for threads. What lead you to that?

I can make them with very coarse thread on the OD and a zero clearance fit . Plus the expansion rate is similar to the Aluminum head so they don't move around like steel inserts. Jim
 
Thanks Jim.

I know I may be asking the obvious but for the benefit of the listees, what lead you to using the inserts?

By the way, Holmeslice is awstruck with the head gasket. Should see rumblings on the list in a few weeks - dyno time but probably after Barber.

Did I read you were heading to Barber?
 
Dances with Shrapnel said:
Thanks Jim.

I know I may be asking the obvious but for the benefit of the listees, what lead you to using the inserts?

By the way, Holmeslice is awstruck with the head gasket. Should see rumblings on the list in a few weeks - dyno time but probably after Barber.

Did I read you were heading to Barber?

Yes, LOP next weekend and then on over to Barber for the next weekend. Really looking forward to it. It will be my first real getaway this year. Jim
 
Dances with Shrapnel said:
Thanks Jim.

I know I may be asking the obvious but for the benefit of the listees, what lead you to using the inserts?

I had to do a similar repair to my Weslake head about 20 years ago ( and more recently) - the head gets soft eventually and the 5/16 unf helicoils fitted under the exhaust ports pull out. Once a helicoil pulls out you're buggered and a more complex fix is required - hence the bronze insert.
In my case I think the idea came from Phil Irving's Tuning for Speed - he mentions using bronze inserts in repairing crankcase stud holes.
For those that haven't come across it before I would really recommend Tuning for Speed even if you not going to be doing any tuning as such. Its title is a bit of a misnomer as it covers a lot of refurbishment, measuring and blueprinting techniques directly applicable to the technology ( or lack thereof) in Norton twins.
The bronze inserts are quite easy to make - if you can get some stock the right OD you could possible get away without using a lathe. In my case I die cut the outer thread 7/16unc, leaving it slightly oversize and then drilled and tapped for the original 5/16 unf. I sunk them just below the surface and then whacked the edge of the hole in a couple of places to peen them in. I also used a high strength loctite but I don't think any loctite would survive the temperatures in that location.
 
How are the inserts held to thread into the new hole? Must they be threaded flush with an initial length or trimmed flush.
 
SeeleyWeslake said:
Dances with Shrapnel said:
Thanks Jim.

I know I may be asking the obvious but for the benefit of the listees, what lead you to using the inserts?

I had to do a similar repair to my Weslake head about 20 years ago ( and more recently) - the head gets soft eventually and the 5/16 unf helicoils fitted under the exhaust ports pull out. Once a helicoil pulls out you're buggered and a more complex fix is required - hence the bronze insert.
In my case I think the idea came from Phil Irving's Tuning for Speed - he mentions using bronze inserts in repairing crankcase stud holes.
For those that haven't come across it before I would really recommend Tuning for Speed even if you not going to be doing any tuning as such. Its title is a bit of a misnomer as it covers a lot of refurbishment, measuring and blueprinting techniques directly applicable to the technology ( or lack thereof) in Norton twins.
The bronze inserts are quite easy to make - if you can get some stock the right OD you could possible get away without using a lathe. In my case I die cut the outer thread 7/16unc, leaving it slightly oversize and then drilled and tapped for the original 5/16 unf. I sunk them just below the surface and then whacked the edge of the hole in a couple of places to peen them in. I also used a high strength loctite but I don't think any loctite would survive the temperatures in that location.

Phil Irving's tuning for speed is an excellent reference. Only recently have I had to personally delve into valve guide and valve seat materials as I am on my own with the rebuilds. Currently going with Berryllium Bronze as it has similar strength and coefficients of thermal expansion as that of Aluminum Bronze but has something like four times the thermal transmissivity so it can better sap heat away from the vlave stems.

As to my original question "what lead you to using the inserts?", in your case it sounds like cylinder head softening up from heat leading to thread pull out. In my opinion it could also be an inadequate design of thread pitch, diameter and/or depth of thread for the specific application.

In general I am wondering (out loud) if significant over torquing can be a contributing factor?
 
Dances with Shrapnel said:
SeeleyWeslake said:
Dances with Shrapnel said:
Thanks Jim.

As to my original question "what lead you to using the inserts?", in your case it sounds like cylinder head softening up from heat leading to thread pull out. In my opinion it could also be an inadequate design of thread pitch, diameter and/or depth of thread for the specific application.

In general I am wondering (out loud) if significant over torquing can be a contributing factor?

The original use of a fine pitch thread in alumimum is a poor design. Plus the heads do get softer over time with hard use. Mine is a little softer that original but not bad. Hard running on the dyno is not good for the head. They get softer even faster if they are welded on.

My biggest issue was the use of studs that were too long causing them to bottom out in the long cap nuts. That caused the studs to turn in and bottom out in the head which caused one helicoil to pull.

Over-torquing them will certainly lead to faster failure. Jim
 
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