Result of Tri Spark

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If you are running 6v coils is it possible the resistance is dropping when they get warm to below the required 3 ohms? Check the resistance when they are cold, run the bike until it dies and check it again immediately?
 
The problem dosnt only occur when shes hot. I have checked all the terminals and everythings tight, its not as though its a bad conection. Just very intermittant.
 
If you are running it through the stock kill switch, it is possible it needs cleaned. You could go directly from the battery to the coils to bypass it to verify. If you can't find any cause, you might contact Tri Spark and ask them about getting it in the mail to them to verify. Air mail to Oz is still pretty fast, or I dunno if CNW would be able to check it for you.

It almost sounds to me like there is a short somewhere that is taking it out. I assume the fuse isn't blowing? Can you disconnect all the headlamp wires and try it. You may have been through this process, but...

Of course an intermitent "open" from a broken wire or bad connector would do it to. I would think about running temporary wire outside the loom to the Tri Spark and then back to the coils to see if it cured it.
 
I have isolated the head lamp bowl completly and checked all wiring for chaffing etc. The fuse remains in tact. Ieven put in a 2amp fuse and ran her and it didnt blow when she stoped.
 
Sounds like a case of the despicable and dreaded intermittent ground.

Check not only the security of the trispark but also head to frame grounds, and also that the wire used has not fractured

If sure all grounds are good, then has to be a live wire wire failure somewhere?
 
Know anybody else running a Tri Spark that you could swap units with?

At some point you might as well call CNW and ask them what it would take to get the unit checked out. Until you know for sure it will drive you crazy.
 
Thanks for all your replies.... Its doing my head in!!!! Renewed all the earths and checked all the wireing again. Think I will have too speak to tri-spark and revert to the boyer see where it goes...... :(
 
marinecommando said:
Thanks for all your replies.... Its doing my head in!!!! Renewed all the earths and checked all the wireing again. Think I will have too speak to tri-spark and revert to the boyer see where it goes...... :(
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Can you put your location in your profile? I assume you're in the US? Perhaps someone is local and can help you look at it. Two sets of eyes are always better.
 
As rvich said, are you running power through a kill switch or have you by-passed it as I have? This is a possible cause of intermittent power breaks. I have bypassed mine.

Can you check if there is still power available to the feed supply of the Trispark when it has "failed?"
 
Reggie said:
As rvich said, are you running power through a kill switch or have you by-passed it as I have? This is a possible cause of intermittent power breaks. I have bypassed mine.

Can you check if there is still power available to the feed supply of the Trispark when it has "failed?"
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Where should the kill switch be wired to?
 
I have bypassed the kill switch and taken that out of the loop.. So only have the key to kill the engine, and that checks out ok...
 
marinecommando said:
I have bypassed the kill switch and taken that out of the loop.. So only have the key to kill the engine, and that checks out ok...
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Even so, I suggest you temporarily wire the Tri-Spark unit directly to the battery (negative, assuming positive earth polarity), add another length of wire from the Tri-Spark unit to the number 1 coil = first coil in series, and also run a wire from the second coil in series directly to battery positive?

Presumably, you are using either 5 kOhm resistor plug caps or resistor plugs?
 
ludwig said:
Off topic , but I would not even START a bike without a kill switch ..
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You might reconsider this, it does save some weight you know.
 
marinecommando said:
Hi there. I have a 72 roadster and have a problem with my ignition. She starts and runs fine but will stop completly with no spark and then 10 mins later go again. I am using a tri-spark unit and thought all my problems had gone away when I fitted it in november, but now with the warmer weather I dont know. I have been through everything and it all checks out fine.The only thing i cant check is the tri-spark itself. What were the symptoms of the unit that was returned? Hope someone can help me. Thanks
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The symptons were no problems before the complete failure...drove bike 2 miles got off bought some cigarettes went back to bike no spark at all also no LED
I have fitted the replacement but now have my Boyer in my pocket :-).
 
ludwig said:
Reggie said:
..I have bypassed mine..
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Off topic , but I would not even START a bike without a kill switch ..
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Neither would I !!!!!!!!!!!!!! (well might start it but not ride it.) Trying to turn the ignition off whilst doing maybe 60 approaching a roundabout would not be fun :-)
 
plj850 said:
Trying to turn the ignition off whilst doing maybe 60 approaching a roundabout would not be fun :-)
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Try using your brakes and pull your clutchlever, works a treat!
 
nortonspeed said:
plj850 said:
Trying to turn the ignition off whilst doing maybe 60 approaching a roundabout would not be fun :-)
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Try using your brakes and pull your clutchlever, works a treat!
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Hmmm that would not be a method I would use especially in the wet IMHO you are asking for a brake lock up :-) and an engine revving itself to b*****ry.
 
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