Rear Drum Brake Assembly Lube?

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Why not eliminate the rear brake then?
The rear brake is very helpful in a lot of situations. The question here is simply, is it better to "ride" the rear brake or use engine braking in the specific - long downhill - situation.

That being said I know riders who never use the rear brake for anything. A couple of them, I'm not sure they even know where the rear brake lever is located! OK, I'm exaggerating. They do know where the lever is; they just don't care! :D
 
On topic of brake lube, what are folks using for the rear brake greasing nipple? I believe this just gives the actuator "cam" some lube. Manual calls for a standard grease, but we all know there are better high temp/brake component types available today.
 
I use good old wheel bearing grease on any MECHANICAL point on my commando where grease is called for. I use dielectric (silicone) grease on electrical connections.
 
On topic of brake lube, what are folks using for the rear brake greasing nipple? I believe this just gives the actuator "cam" some lube. Manual calls for a standard grease, but we all know there are better high temp/brake component types available today.
The same lube I spoke of in post #7.
 
I would not use the grease nipple at all anymore.
I have seen shoes contaminated by too much grease /oil.
It need be, it is better to remove the brake plate, clean the cam and relube sparingly.

Today's high temp caliper grease probably lasts longer and will not thin out with heat.

Be sure to put a little grease on the pivot pin, because the aluminum shoe and steel pin can fuse together.
I saw this on 2 TLS brake plates I recently restored.
Torch heat did not work, and no puller jaws would fit. I had to cut the shoe off the pin.
 
'The simple point I advocate is that heat is an influential factor where brakes are concerned and a rebuild/repair should take that into account.'

100% nailed it.... Lest we all forget:

'Friction braking is the most commonly used braking method in modern vehicles. It involves the conversion of kinetic energy to thermal energy by applying friction to the moving parts of a system. The friction force resists motion and in turn generates heat, eventually bringing the velocity to zero. '

(Apologies to those for who'm I'm stating the obvious!)
 
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Apologies if I'm stating the obvious!
...which is why it needs stating! :-)
 
How can that be?
The revs will be lower (I'm yet to hear 7000rpm engine braking - on the road, in case Al is listening) as well as the compression (carb slides are down).
Where does this "more stress" come from?

EDIT: In fact, as the crank centre-line on Nortons (750cc and up) is behind the centre-lines of the bores (giving higher pressure on the front of the bores during the power stroke) I believe engine braking will reduce that peak forward pressure.
Perhaps I came across a bit drastic in my statement. Of course I use engine braking , but there will be times when the rear brake would come in handy in downhill stretches such as when encountering twists and turns while engine braking. This may require repeated use of the brakes in addition to engine braking.

There is one area that will be subjected to increased strain during AGGRESSIVE engine braking, that would be the rod caps on the big end. Under acceleration the vast majority of big end loading will be in a downward direction. Engine braking will put more stress on the rod cap as now the crankshaft will be pulling the pistons on the downstroke.

Under normal engine braking this will not be an issue.
 
I would not use the grease nipple at all anymore.
I have seen shoes contaminated by too much grease /oil.
It need be, it is better to remove the brake plate, clean the cam and relube sparingly.

Today's high temp caliper grease probably lasts longer and will not thin out with heat.

Be sure to put a little grease on the pivot pin, because the aluminum shoe and steel pin can fuse together.
I saw this on 2 TLS brake plates I recently restored.
Torch heat did not work, and no puller jaws would fit. I had to cut the shoe off the pin.
I have seen the result of over ambitious grease monkeys pumping grease into the rear brake camshaft .... on a well maintained machined that had the camshaft installed with a good quality grease there is no need to grease it IMHO
 
'The simple point I advocate is that heat is an influential factor where brakes are concerned and a rebuild/repair should take that into account.'

100% nailed it.... Lest we all forget:

'Friction braking is the most commonly used braking method in modern vehicles. It involves the conversion of kinetic energy to thermal energy by applying friction to the moving parts of a system. The friction force resists motion and in turn generates heat, eventually bringing the velocity to zero. '

(Apologies to those for who'm I'm stating the obvious!)
All is obvious 'cept for what other types of braking are used in modern vehicles? Are we talking aero spoilers, parachutes, magnetic/regeneratives?
 
I have seen the result of over ambitious grease monkeys pumping grease into the rear brake camshaft .... on a well maintained machined that had the camshaft installed with a good quality grease there is no need to grease it IMHO
I've combed through my Rider's and workshop manuals. There is very little mentioning this grease fitting. Only a comment to give it one pump of lube every 5k miles. Nothing about specific grease type.
I agree it should not need much or any further attention, a good thing b/c it is behind the silencer and hard to reach without moving silencer away.
 
All is obvious 'cept for what other types of braking are used in modern vehicles? Are we talking aero spoilers, parachutes, magnetic/regeneratives?
I may have been overthinking it, but when I read lines like:
'I was concerned about heat, but on a rear brake that probably isn't a real issue.'
'I seriously doubt you are going to need to worry about heat buildup.'
It did seem perhaps 'heat' was/is viewed as an unfortunate by product of our braking systems, rather than a necessary and integral part of the process...
(Mind you, engine braking with a big single can be very effective, too)
 
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