Question to Dominator and Commando 961 owners

Oh, so before the bike is totally warmed-up, the engine does not die when down shifting?
This only occurs after the engine is warm, is that what you mean?
Maybe then the TPS and the temperature sensor.

What type of ECU does your bike have OMEX or SCS Delta?
Do you have an OBDII reader for reading ECU error codes?
 
Downshifting for me and when clutch in. The temperature sensor was replaced first but I had a cheap TPS sensor fitted which I think was breaking down over a period of time. As soon as Stuart from Motorvated changed the TPS sensor last year, the bike ran better than from new
 
Welshrugby said:
Downshifting for me and when clutch in. The temperature sensor was replaced first but I had a cheap TPS sensor fitted which I think was breaking down over a period of time. As soon as Stuart from Motorvated changed the TPS sensor last year, the bike ran better than from new
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*map sensor ;):)
 
The fact your malfunction lamp comes on indicates a sensor failure, and as Stu mentioned MAP sensors are a known issue on the 961. Swap it out for this ( even a second hand one will be better than the original)
  • Yamaha 1WS-82380-00 (Has a green sticker)
 
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Voodooo said:
I have a Domi and a commando 961. I don’t have that issues on either bike.

Are you saying when you engage the clutch the rpm drops and stalls?

How does the bike idle when in neutral?

Is your hoses off at the IAC valve?
Are the hose clamps tight?
Are your throttle body fasteners tight?
Any vacuum leaks?
Enough fuel in the tank?
Loose fuses or relays?
Spark plugs worn?
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YES, ONLY WHEN I engage the clutch the rpm drops and engine is stalls.

When in neutral it is working perfectly.

It start to be like that a few minutes after I ride and the bike is worm, and when it happens: the engine malfunction indicator warning light is on yellow ...

PLEASE HELP
 
If it runs fine, but has the lamp on, on a euro 4, then its 99% of the time a sporadic signal from the cam sensor, usually picked up whilst cranking to start, with a battery thats not 100%.. Nortons parameters are too close, so a slight voltage blip picked up will throw the light on. Replacing it for the later Bosch number helps massively, but is still not a 100% fix. If the map sensor fails, the usual running symptom is it'll fire up, but will stall the moment you try to blip the throttle.
 
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What type of ECU does the 2020 Commando have?
If the malfunction indicator light is on, then the ECU has raised error codes.
The best way to start the diagnosis is to read the ECU error codes - if possible.
If you remove the seat, check to see if you have a 16 pin ODB2 connector cable.
If your ECU is an SCS unit, you can get a OBD2 reader, and read the ECU error codes.
It's better and cheaper than swapping out one sensor after another, to try and find the culprit.
 
NortonDominator2020 said:
Hello guys,

I’m very glad to find this forum and I’m sure I will learn a lot here.

I own a Norton Dominator year 2020, photos attached.
Recently when I want to slow down and down shift from gear 3 to 2 and from 2 to 1, the second I press the clutch handle the RPM drops down and the engine is turned off in the middle of the riding, if I’m in speed when I leave the clutch it can turn on again and if I’m in slow the rear wheel is obviously getting locked and it can be a dangerous situation… My mechanics tells me it is a well known issue with the Dominator and Commando 961 and that I need to put gas before pressing the clutch or to come in and raise the RPM to 1400-1600.

I don’t find this answers reasonable and will appreciate your advice on that and to ask if anyone have this issue with your 961?

Also, 200 was made from the SS. How many was made from the regular ones like mine later on?

How do I upload pictures?;)

Thank you so much!
Michael
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Thank you everyone for your valuable replies and knowledge! I really appreciate it!
My technicians will read all your advices and will check everything, I hope that this issue will be solved soon and I will update about it.
Thank you again
 
I know it’s been said before but almost all of these type of fault threads make mention of the importance of having a healthy (fully charged) battery. Without this, spurious faults seem to follow.

Is it accurate to say then, that most (although not all) of our beloved 961’s need to be stored permanently on a battery tender? Those that have little to no parasitic drain seem to manage without it.

Could it be the case then that a bike may start, but without the assistance of a ‘fully’ charged battery may introduce running errors resulting from the low initial voltage supply to the ECU? Way outside of my understading.

I don’t have shares in Shorai (Lithium) but have had no spurious running faults since adopting a Lithium battery and dedicated charger. If the 961 needs a healthy battery then the much higher CCA‘s of the Lithium battery can only be beneficial.

My bike is routinely on ‘store”. Each weekend (and before every ride) I hit ‘charge’ and within 20-30 mins it is fully charged. Ignition on, leave for 10 secs or so for the battery to warn up and hit the starter - no throttle. Good to go.

These are my experiences only - I know others have had different outcomes. As bikers generally though, I think the battery is probably the most oft ignored key component of the bike; most only paying it attention when it lets us down. Maybe because of the nature of the 961 our batteries are letting more of us down than we realise.
 
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Yes it needs to live on a trickle charger, as the standard clocks have a parasitic drain. Only real way around it is to either fit aftermarket clocks (Ive gone for Motogadget), or rewire the permanent live to an ignition switched live.
Battery, I prefer the standard Yuasa ytz14s over a lithium.... given the charging system is as stable and consistent as the overall build quality was :oops: Odd how everyone who gets a lithium battery also gets a lithium charger...but very few think to get a mosfet reg/rec?
 
Later on in production Norton switched to a dynavolt battery, dark blue in colour. Those were shite.
 
Side note, euro 4 bikes dont run a permanent live to the rev counter. Norton knew the concern with the clocks, so tried to work around it. The euro 4 permanent live wire actually goes to the ecu shut down relay instead. It at least theoretically halved the overall drain. So you'd just need to modify the speedo wiring. Only downside is your time will never be right... but no biggy.
 
NortonDominator2020 said:
Thanks!
the engine working perfectly when pulling the clutch in neutral, the RPM drops and engine turns off ONLY when I press the clutch to down shift to slow down...
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Can you start the bike in gear with sidestand up ? You should be able to start your bike in gear with sidestand up and clutch pulled in. Your bike SHOULD KILL if at a stop in gear with clutch pulled in and side stand is put down. How low is the engine rpm when you pull in the clutch ? Is this only when you are coming to a stop ? If you lug the engine down to very low rpm while moving slowly (1st gear) , will it still pick up revs with throttle ? If you force rpm to stay higher when slowing down or coming to a stop , how high must revs stay to keep the engine running ?
 
mean gene said:
First rule - Don't DON'T touch the throttle before starting. If you twist throttle before starting it will cause your engine to romp( rpms up and down on it's own). Mine will romp somedays then turn off ignition ,wait a few seconds and the computer will rest. Off you go! My 961 will have a day that it will shut off when coming to a stop. Starts right up and may not do it for a week. TPS I am told is a problem I have not changed mine. Because these aren't available in USA the members have compiled a list of replacement (Bosch and Honda)parts. Some will recommend replacing thing right away. I do it as needed
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It’s injection, as far as I know you can play with the throttle as much as you want if the engine is not running
 
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