Primary chain replacemetnt questions (belt)..

ashman · Mar 24, 2011

Hey Dave

I have no troubles riding my 850 with a 890 length belt with standard gearing, I use top gear at all time around town usaly just on 40 mph about 2,500 rpms plus it good crusing on the highway usaly between 60-70 mph at about 4,000 rpms depends on the wind direction and has good top end speed as well, but I run a SS cam and my bottom end is balanced which helps very much, but my belt is a 32mm wide belt, the only problem I had was I had the belt to tight to start off with and it was pushing on the front drive plate trying to run off but since loosing it to the right amount have had no problems, just got to get the right ajustment as my kit had no instuctions with it...

Hope this helps

Ashley

swooshdave · Mar 24, 2011

bill said:
boz said:

I have been told that you need to put in a seal to keep trans lube out of the now dry primary. Is this included in the kits?
If not where do you get one?

Click to expand...

dyno dave sell's one.

clutch-pushrod-seal-t6742.html

prmurat · Mar 24, 2011

I have been using a Norvil for over 7 years... you can choose different ratios when you order... just remember that you will need to have some fresh air getting in the primary now!
Philippe

DogT · Mar 24, 2011

I sent Les an email asking about the possibility of a 4.84 top gear ratio primary belt drive. Can anyone else speak to the Norvil belt drives? They seem about the same price as the RGM. I calculate with a 19 tooth sprocket, 3000rpm 4th gear gives 46mph, 21 tooth sprocket 3000rpm in 4th gear gives 51mph, right at 5mph difference.

It's not that I'm looking for take off, I'm looking at keeping the rpm's up without going fast, being an old codger.

Dave
69S

bill · Mar 25, 2011

prmurat said:
just remember that you will need to have some fresh air getting in the primary now!
Philippe

I have run mine sealed for 30000 miles with NO trouble and that includes some 650 mile days in summer weather in Fl.

bill · Mar 25, 2011

dave
the norvil standard kit is the same ratio as stock.

dynodave · Mar 25, 2011

1. I've run my HTD 30mm norvil belt drive since 1989.
I have only removed the steel seal holder on the rear of the primary for cooling.

2 At that time I decided I wanted to stop the gearbox oil drip and I made the clutch rod seal. I made more at local club members request...
Since then I have sold almost 4,000.

3. I have also bought the AT10 RGM, just have not run it yet...looks OK to me

4. QPD requires you use all their non-standard (norton) parts(therefore expensive). Otherwise no first hand experience, except helping a club member debug his, since QPD was very little help.

Dave
http://atlanticgreen.com/store.htm

pete.v · Mar 25, 2011

Just to be clear, these steel backed polyurethane A10 Synchroflex belts can be run wet OR dry. One should not be concerned with dripage in THIS regard, only for the dripage its self.

boz · Mar 25, 2011

Hey DynoDave how can I get one of those seals?
I would send you a PM but I can't figure out how to.

bill · Mar 25, 2011

boz said:
Hey DynoDave how can I get one of those seals?
I would send you a PM but I can't figure out how to.

upper right corner. click on posters name. you should find it than.

swooshdave · Mar 25, 2011

boz said:
Hey DynoDave how can I get one of those seals?
I would send you a PM but I can't figure out how to.

There is a link under his signature, should take you right to his site.

http://atlanticgreen.com/store.htm

cmessenk · Mar 25, 2011

DogT said:
I was thinking about a belt kit too, but it knocks up the effective size of the sprocket by 2 which would give my 750 an effective 21 tooth sprocket. Not wanting to do that I have put it off.

I know this has been covered extensively on other threads, but Windy (aka, "bill" on this Forum) convinced me to trade up to a 21-tooth on my Combat, from the stock 19-tooth, and IMO it's been one of the best things I've ever done. My riding consists of 1/2 around town and 1/2 highway / twisties in Central Florida. If a belt-drive mimics a 21-tooth, I wouldn't let that keep me from making the change. Just MHO.

slimslowslider · Mar 25, 2011

bwolfie said:
If you buy from RGM you can also purchase a hardened aluminum clutch center and pressure plate. Much lighter all around. For those who like to save weight. They also sell a nice clutch pushrod improvment kit.

After I bought the kit, RGM advised NOT to use to the hardened alloy pressure plate.
The anodising layer comes off as very hard dust.
Maybe not a problem on racers with open primary.
RGM sent me a replacement steel one instead, free of charge.
Thick and heavy, alas.

cash · Mar 25, 2011

You could have put a steel plate in front of it.
Cash

bwolfie · Mar 25, 2011

slimslowslider said:
bwolfie said:

If you buy from RGM you can also purchase a hardened aluminum clutch center and pressure plate. Much lighter all around. For those who like to save weight. They also sell a nice clutch pushrod improvment kit.

Click to expand...

After I bought the kit, RGM advised NOT to use to the hardened alloy pressure plate.
The anodising layer comes off as very hard dust.
Maybe not a problem on racers with open primary.
RGM sent me a replacement steel one instead, free of charge.
Thick and heavy, alas.

My application poses no problems with dust and oil, flapping in the wind takes care of that.

slimslowslider · Mar 25, 2011

cash said:
You could have put a steel plate in front of it.
Cash

Came with 4 thick Surflex plates, not much room left for anything else.
Might trim the steel one a bit.

DogT · Mar 25, 2011

I haven't heard back from Les yet. I'm still holding out for the 4.84 ratio. I guess I'm used to it and I really don't want to go any faster in first gear.

Dave
69S

Keith1069 · Mar 29, 2011

I haven't heard back from Les yet. I'm still holding out for the 4.84 ratio. I guess I'm used to it and I really don't want to go any faster in first gear.

They have a 32/70 listed for 4.836 with 19T.

Primary chain replacemetnt questions (belt)..

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