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Ta.
Rohan said:ashman said:I think you are all putting to much into this, like I have said before I run my oil cooler all year round, my Norton has never had any troubles getting to working temps even in winter, I don't cover my oil cooler in colder months, I take it easy for the first few miles to get the bike up to working temps just like any other bike, <snip>
Ashley
Vincents quoted it took ~ 20 miles to get the oil to working temp, with their fairly large oil tank.
That could be cooler english weather though, and oils were a bit gummier back then, until they warmed up.
needing said:My turn: Lucky I didn't mount the cooler in front of the head or it may have sucked the air right out of the aircleaner.
John Britten put his radiators under the seat. If it wasn't for the stupid weight reduction principles he adhered to [ like remove fuel from the tank so the rider ran out 1/2 lap too soon.k, he would have won every race he entered.
hobot said:this thread is about more common sitting still or barely creeping
comnoz said:I used to have a thermostatic bypass for my oil cooler. It was plumbed into the oil return line. When I first installed it it had a 200F thermostat in it. You had to really use the bike long and hard in hot weather to ever see it open.
Then I put a 180 degree thermostat in it. Even with the lower temp stat I would still see cylinder head temps around 500 degrees before I would ever get any flow through the cooler.
A few years ago I removed the thermostat completely and changed the oil lines around so just the oil that is going to the head runs through the cooler. It looked to me like the head needed the cooling help more than the oil in the tank. I have liked the result and noticed the oil does not get dark as soon. Jim
I watched a video about this. When the TC was in development, there was a problem with the oil temp being too high with normal use. Design would't let them use an oil cooler, and making the cooling fins larger didn't cure it. Someone on the team figured out that the high oil temps were caused by oil returning from the heads, so they restricted the flow.
XR1200 heads have extra oil passages milled in them. There is an additional oil feed that fills the heads with oil, draws off heat and drains it separately out to the oil tank. This oil flow is completely separate from the top end oil flow through the rocker arms, and it is an effective means of pulling down the heat in the heads. The heads also require a different head gasket because of how the oil passages are formed. Maybe if HD did this on the CVO 110s, they wouldn't be having such a problem with the heads and cylinder liners...
xbacksideslider said:Makes a lot of sense, Jim.
Do you have a picture of your routing/setup/size of cooler?
xbacksideslider said:Wow. Well done. Those Setrabs are sweet, "fit anywhere," not serpentine with end tanks and proper fittings.
I'm speculating on the routing. Right side cooler is fed from the high side of the oil filter, then across in series to the left side cooler, then into the head. Do I understand that correctly? Why not from the stock location - the timing chest high side top end oil distribution line? Greater flow and no real need for high pressure? And, I guess the pump handles the increased volume on the scavenge low side?
hobot said:Jim found factory pump couldn't keep up with the extra flow of drilled cam shaft so created a bigger pump to move more oil faster.