Parts you dont regret buying (2014)

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smiths oil pressure and temp gauges
Avon fairing
Tickle clip ons and rear sets
boyer analogue ign
Pazon Smartfire
Oil cooler
Alton Starter
titanium valve collers
rgm alloy tank ( regret having to buy it though lol)
rgm clutch pushrod kit
 
oldmikew said:
smiths oil pressure and temp gauges
Avon fairing
Tickle clip ons and rear sets
boyer analogue ign
Pazon Smartfire
Oil cooler
Alton Starter
titanium valve collers
rgm alloy tank ( regret having to buy it though lol)
rgm clutch pushrod kit
Click to expand...

Way regret Pazon Smartfire?
 
Well, I suppose this here set of 880 pistons that I bought from Kenny Dreer back in 2008 (has it been 10 years?) is something I don't regret buying...

Parts you dont regret buying (2014)


It made me want to go ahead and buy the original monoshock swingarm from the first New Norton prototype bike...

Parts you dont regret buying (2014)


Then, after buying another several thousand dollars in parts from him, Old Britts, and a few dozen other people from several corners of the globe, I built this...

Parts you dont regret buying (2014)

Yes, it's a MkIII, and yes, it's RIGHT-foot shift!

So, I don't regret any of those purchases.
 
Glad to see this thread still going. No regrets on the CNW billet primary cover, the Mike's XS reed valve crankcase breather, or the Kegler alloy swing arm clamps from NYC Norton. Also the high quality paint job on both my Roadster and Interstate tanks and side covers done by Russ Foy of Custom Classics Paint Works.
 
Pazon Ignition
Avon tires
Braided oil lines
Corbin seat
Legendary Tach/Speedo
Modern headlamp
Podtronics regulator
NJB Shocks
LED voltage indicator
 
My madass low pressure warning light with red LED bulb:
 

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I’ve bought so much for mine, 99% of which I absolutely do not regret, so it’s kinda hard not to write a big long boring list. However, I really thought about the absolute, basic, must haves and it’s these:

1. Combined Tri-Spark / cNw coil ignition system
2. FCR carb kit from cNw
The above items give a bike that always starts first or second kick, always idles without issue, and pulls clean, but like a bloody train, all the way through the rev range. Carbs never go out of synch, ign never needs touching, it all just works.

3. Comnoz sump plug reed valve breather.
This is a magic thing, screws in with no mods required, solves a multitude of oil leak issues and solves wet sumping grief all at once.

So, I could write a very long list of my personal recommendations of ‘nice to have’ and performance enhancing mods...

But, in terms of making a Cdo a practical, usable, hassle free, enjoyable motorcycle, that’s my short list of ‘must haves’.

All only IMHO of course.
 
chaztuna said:
Do you know the part number for these? I just found the All Balls website. However, they don't list Norton in the Year/Make/Model look up. :oops:

Charlie
Click to expand...
Don't remember the part #, since it was some years ago I did the changeover, but readily-available Timken tapered rollers are available to fit a Commando headstock.
 
My 2 pence- Boyers; two of 'em. Even if they're not your fave EI for old Britbikes, they spawned all the rest. Good riddance to dual points, springs and bobweights.
 
A tiny second battery and switch dedicated to the ignition circuit for Estart. With 12.6 to 13 volts to the ignition, the engine starts almost instantly hot or cold, no kickback.

It'll be interesting to see how the $17 Chinese sprag holds up with this set up.

It has already outlasted the $150 sprag that only lived for a dozen starts then flipped and broke it's race.

Glen
 
To ensure 12+V to the Boyer I have bought a electronic box that takes 5V to 30V in and puts out 13V (or whatever you set it to between 6V and 28V) with 8A max current draw. So it's both a step up and step down voltage stabiliser. So it not only stops kickbacks but protects the boyer if the regulator fails and the volts go too high.
 
kommando said:
To ensure 12+V to the Boyer I have bought a electronic box that takes 5V to 30V in and puts out 13V (or whatever you set it to between 6V and 28V) with 8A max current draw. So it's both a step up and step down voltage stabiliser. So it not only stops kickbacks but protects the boyer if the regulator fails and the volts go too high.
Click to expand...

Sounds kinda cool. Where did you get such an animal?
 
kommando said:
To ensure 12+V to the Boyer I have bought a electronic box that takes 5V to 30V in and puts out 13V (or whatever you set it to between 6V and 28V) with 8A max current draw. So it's both a step up and step down voltage stabiliser. So it not only stops kickbacks but protects the boyer if the regulator fails and the volts go too high.
Click to expand...



kommando, sounds interesting, can you please share more detail?
 
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