Open or not to open the oil pump

DogT said:

So the feed side gears (narrow gears) that operate against the brass plate have the chamfer in the body side.
The scavange gears (wide gears) that operate against the steel cover plate also have chamfers? I don't remember. I would assume they would be like the feed gears, with the chamfer to the inside, but yes it may be wise to call someone that knows for sure, I'm sure Mick would tell. I can't remember. I didn't realize Piero was asking about the wide gears.

It always helps to call things as they are in the workshop manual or parts book, I'm guilty of the using non standard names at times.

Dave

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Dear Dave,
thanks a lot for helping me.
Often, i am not very able to translate well and understand correctly.
I think is better i leave the gears like i have found: one chamfer gear into and the other out.
I dont knowh who rebuilt the oil pump at the time, but i am sure the prewieu owner was more competent than me!.
Best regards.
Ciao.
Piero

My 1st Combat pre Peel ran many 1000's of miles before me and then a few after me with some gaps in its teeth and brass plate scored from swallowing the 2S thrust washer tabs yet was still able to wet sump at hi rpm or throw oil out the tank cap or out open rocker covers. I don't think we even need an oil pump but to rise oil pressure enough to supply head drip splash enough for lifter life. Crank sling has been shown quite sufficient to keep rod shells supplied as evidenced by Norton dropping the oil guage feature after only a season or so d/t all the reports of zero pressure showing at hwy speed. The risk of opening the pump is buggering up the slots in the 4 screws to get past their staking and nailing em down again.

hobot said:

My 1st Combat pre Peel ran many 1000's of miles before me and then a few after me with some gaps in its teeth and brass plate scored from swallowing the 2S thrust washer tabs yet was still able to wet sump at hi rpm or throw oil out the tank cap or out open rocker covers. I don't think we even need an oil pump but to rise oil pressure enough to supply head drip splash enough for lifter life. Crank sling has been shown quite sufficient to keep rod shells supplied as evidenced by Norton dropping the oil guage feature after only a season or so d/t all the reports of zero pressure showing at hwy speed. The risk of opening the pump is buggering up the slots in the 4 screws to get past their staking and nailing em down again.

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That should clear it up for him.

As I said I deleted the photo that was posted in a mistake with in photobucket the Champher goes in towards the body no matter the side. Sometimes there are both sides done just a little on the thick gear side.

Dear Sir,
i just finished to strip other two pumps.
All the same result for 3:
- the chamfer on the feed gear faces towards the centre of the pump - away from the brass plate
- the chamfer on the scavenge gear faces away from the centre of the pump - towards the top plate.
Thanks a lot for your patience.
Piero

Chamfers to the center of the pump.

With the gears in place, you will not see the chamfer.

Although, if all is in good condition it will more than likely work fine either way. I am sure their are functional pumps with the chamfers running every which way.

Don't over think these things, pierodn. These are basic and rudimentary mechanic items. (Part of the beauty and mystique of it all.) Common sense will win out in most cases.

When you put it together, tighten the screws evenly. I the pump does not spin freely, loosen the screws slightly and tap the top around, the plate with the shaft coming out of it, to a position that the pump turns free, usually toward the mounting surface.
Snug the screws and confirm smooth operation.

It is a good idea to apply a little locktite to the thread of the brass plate. I have seen these come loose.

pvisseriii said:

When you put it together, tighten the screws evenly. I the pump does not spin freely, loosen the screws slightly and tap the top around, the plate with the shaft coming out of it, to a position that the pump turns free, usually toward the mounting surface.
Snug the screws and confirm smooth operation.

It is a good idea to apply a little locktite to the thread of the brass plate. I have seen these come loose.

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Thanks a lot for suggestions.
Ciao.
Piero

pierodn. These are basic and rudimentary mechanic items. (Part of the beauty and mystique of it all.) Common sense will win out in most cases.

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One of my late mentors Dr. Goodheart, stated, "the body is complexly simple and simply complex"

Oh brother, what a flash back ole pvisseriii leaves for me to twist and squirm over. When I got my 1st Combat that ran great but had over a dozen oil weeps and leaks, I was also told no worries mate', these things are as simple as a lawmower, what could go wrong... Well crankshaft bent, cases cracked, cam bad, frozen and trapped shafts and fasteners and plugs and caps and half mangled oil pump cogs, chipped valves and seats, but by golly the non-superduper blends were still pristine. Get the oil pump gasket and seal and TS cover gasket wrong combo and pump fills the sump more than supplies the crank journals full pressure. So there is a manhood test here, how much do you want to remain a mystery while running down the road w/o completing your masters degree in Commando fettering.