oil leak

texasSlick · Aug 13, 2015

N0rt0nelectr@ said:
I will go on line and see if I can locate a dealer. Where do get yours?

Going to take the tank back out and lap in the banjo to both the tank and filter. Don't know if this will improve things but couldn't hurt.

Thanks to all who have given me ideas of how to proceed.

John Ebert
Granbury, TX

Re Dowty seals:

useful-links-universal-parts-and-accessories-t21096.html

Slick
Bullard, Tx

N0rt0nelectr@ · Aug 14, 2015

Well I got the leak stopped, again thank you all for your insight and ideas.

John Ebert
Granbury, TX

DogT · Aug 14, 2015

I've used a smear of silicone on those crush washers to stop leaks sometimes. Especially the oil line banjos.

N0rt0nelectr@ · Aug 16, 2015

as a back stop I am going to a local hydraulic shop and see if they have the Dowty Bonded seals. If they do I will pick up a couple for the next time I remove the tank for cleaning.

John Ebert
Granbury, TX

maylar · Aug 17, 2015

Anybody know the correct size of a Dowty seal for the oil tank?

N0rt0nelectr@ · Aug 20, 2015

One of the replies I got said 7/8". Still looking for a local source for the bonded seals.

John Ebert
Granbury, TX

texasSlick · Aug 20, 2015

N0rt0nelectr@ said:
One of the replies I got said 7/8". Still looking for a local source for the bonded seals.

John Ebert
Granbury, TX

They are very hard to find in local bearing/seal shops, or hydraulic hose shops. I bit the bullet and ordered on-line (I posted a link above). Order a range of sizes to fit drain plugs, oil and fuel banjos, even the large sump plug. Once you use the bonded seals, you will not want to go back to copper.

Slick

BTW .... the nitrile (Buna N) seals are good up to 225 deg. F. (104 C). Use the Viton variety for temps up to 400 F.(204 C).

Nater_Potater · Aug 20, 2015

texasSlick said:
N0rt0nelectr@ said:

One of the replies I got said 7/8". Still looking for a local source for the bonded seals.

John Ebert
Granbury, TX

Click to expand...

They are very hard to find in local bearing/seal shops, or hydraulic hose shops. I bit the bullet and ordered on-line (I posted a link above). Order a range of sizes to fit drain plugs, oil and fuel banjos, even the large sump plug. Once you use the bonded seals, you will not want to go back to copper.

Slick

Same here! I use them on the oil pan drain bolts on my cars. Slick, as long as you're in the States and don't mind paying a bit of shipping, McMaster-Carr is a great supply source for a huge amount of hardware, plumbing, and specialty chemicals/sealants. That's also where I got the stainless clamps and brass-nosed set screws for my swingarm spindle mod.

Nathan

N0rt0nelectr@ · Mar 28, 2016

comnoz said:
N0rt0nelectr@ said:

Still after the leak. I have done a pressure test on the tank and can see no leaks. When I had the tank off and doing the pressure test I could see no leaks around the banjo fitting. When I put it all back together and of course filled the oil tank, I noticed a bit of oil around the banjo. I haven't started the bike so the leak isn't under pressure. Drained the oil and checked the gaskets for the banjo and they looked damaged with dings in them. Don't have and new gaskets so I went to Auto Zone to see what they might have and found an assortment of copper gaskets. I was thinking that copper would be as good as the aluminum if not better. Had to buy 2 assortments to get the 2 gaskets I needed, can't win. Had to relieve the outer most gasket a little so it would fit over the filter but it is a nice fit. Still leaks! Damn!
Removed the gaskets and annealed them. Only put enough oil in to cover the filter and let it sit over night. You got it, still leaks.
I have some of the correct gaskets coming and will give you an up date.

Maybe Jim can give me some insight on the aluminum vs copper gasket thing?

John in Texas

Click to expand...

I prefer the copper gaskets. If you anneal them with a propane torch they will be softer. I have been known to paint them with high temp aluminum paint also.

I have seen cases where the seal surface on the tank was not perpendicular to the threads. It caused the washer to crush more on one side than the other. Installing the banjo and bolt with no washers could reveal a gap on one side.
A little careful work with a 180 grit DA pad stuck to a flat bar cured it.

Back at it, the leak returned over the winter. So over the weekend I removed the oil tank and with new gaskets on the banjo fitting I put about 10 pounds of air into the oil tank. It was leaking around the banjo fitting, again. I examined the gasket and you could see and feel a ridge on it. I lapped in the gasket on a sheet of glass and it looked ok. Next I examined the banjo fitting and the joint where the pipe fits into the banjo didn't look right. I had a spare so I am using that. I lapped in the banjo too. While at the NTNOA swap meet at Big D Cycles I spoke to Bob Cox and he suggested I put a thing film of gray gasket cement on the gaskets. Did that yesterday and let it dry for an hour. Put about 10 PSI of air into the tank and no leak! Woohoo! Going to put oil in the tank this morning and let it sit for a day and see what happens. Why it would start leaking after all these years is beyond me but I think it is the new gaskets.

oil leak

Similar threads