Norton Villiers Commando 1968 Re commissioning an adventures at 30

Cheers guys yeah when I saw they were JP's it was bothering me one of the lads who followed me on Instagram echo'd what you guys said. Might explain a few things if they are that pant's as the cylinder only needed a hone an a slight skim on the head + Pete dressed the bottom of the bit of damage on the cylinder for me. So still on stock size.

Thanks again guys I'll ditch the JP's as an offering to the god of speed as my old next doors neighbours Grandaughter's grandad would say

Bit of progress today in Norton land got the 650ss service done an these turned up yesterday.

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Gonna get the crank split and clean the sludge trap out tomorrow shall be interesting, gonna mark the crank sides up so I know what's what. Need to order some pistons once I've got a few bits an pieces sold of the japanese bikes but it's all looking good for having the majority of the engine back together this month.

norton_rider said:

Pete Lovell sorted the followers out for me along with re honing the cylinder an a slight skim to the cylinder surface was all she needed, also looked over my other parts for me which got the ok

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Hi Tom, I'd be interested to know how Pete Lovell treated your cam followers (or was it the follower tunnels in the barrel). Please post a picture if possible.

-Knut

Hi Knut Will do I'll take some pictures was the faces of the followers he sorted out for me.

Got the Crank out today with the intention of swapping the bolts round with new ones an correcting the order as LAB kindly pointed out, cleaning the sludge trap starting the bottom end re assembly. Sat down with the NV workshop manual for a bit an had a read realised I'm lacking a few more bits I need to order.

An oil gun some Molydenum disulphide an the correct spanners for the crankshaft nuts does anyone know what the correct size is for the Commando crankshaft bolts?

Mini video update just waiting on some spanners coming tomorrow then I'm gonna split the crank.

Got the Crankshaft apart today gonna be a video coming on it either tonight or tomorrow when its uploaded. Here's a few pictures from today.

Noticed a bit of Scoring on the shells.

If you did know not before then you know now, fit an oil filter in the return line. The scoring on the shells is from dirt/grit circulating in the oil. The shells were made by Glacier Bearings in Kilmarnock and supplied through the AE Autoparts organisation. The are sintered copper leaded bronze bonded to steel with a lead/tin overlay plating to stop the acids in the used oil eating the lead out of the bronze.

Thanks mate yep she had one on but the previous owner had left glass media in the head which is what we found still in the rocker spindles and head when we took her apart. Was smoking like a freight train. Thinking back to the conversations I'm sure he knew as well.

Such is life though an I said to dad before it's a brilliant opportunity to learn all about it an the different aspects as I'm sure it won't be my last Commando

Might look at getting a re grind done on her. Once the video has finished uploading should be able to show you guys it all quite clearly was a few more bits wrong as always appreciate opinions. Open to recommendations of people to use to for the regrind or if you guys think it needs it. Going to measure it this week. Didn't have any up or down play in the rods.

Video is up guys. Open to suggestions as well guys by who to have the frame done by to put the spar in.

Made the logical choice to get the frame recall done and add the support peice under the main frame spar while shes still in perfect condition as I'm planning on using her as a daily rider now I'm rebuilding the engine

The planets have aligned an I'm getting it done by my number one choice of expert.

I'll bring more on that when it's done although it's gonna delay the rebuild worth doing it at this stage. Next step is to strip her down to a bare frame. Ready for the work to be carried out. Hoping to get some batteries later so I can measure the Crank journals and see what needs doing there, hoping I can get away with just replacing the shells. If she measures up ok if not who's everyone using in the UK for regrinds.

Take it to Pete, or at least someone who knows Norton’s. If you take it to your local normal car engine machine shop they’ll likely grind away the radius leaving you with a crank about as strong as a carrot...

Cheers Eddie yep it'll definitely be a bike person I'll go to, I'll have to see how busy Pete is I'll give it a measure up tomorrow.

Being elderly and most likely having a senior moment, that crank looks to have been worked on before.

I thought the 750 had nut and bolt fastening and when the studs are used the long nuts and studs were at the 12:00 o clock position. (or not)

Time Warp said:

Being elderly and most likely having a senior moment, that crank looks to have been worked on before.

I thought the 750 had nut and bolt fastening and when the studs are used the long nuts and studs were at the 12:00 o clock position. (or not)

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The engine was rebuilt by the PO.

I am sure T J will put those new studs in the factory favoured locations then as they are quite important (We will hope those top holes are still a good locating fit)

Yep previous owner who screwed her up put those crank bolts in incorrectly made it a pain getting the front two out managed it in the end though gonna measure the journals up over the weekend. Gonna have to refer to the manual schematics on everything on rebuild an double check what washers etc are wrong.

So we've got a propper rebuild on now lads an ladies, spent today freeing the frame from the chassis thanks to Eddie for the tip on getting the swingarm an engine cradle free.

Found a few bits while stripping the chassis wiring was a mess a few bare cables in the headlight shell recipe for disaster gonna look at a new loom on the rebuild.

Some frame pictures for prosperity before it goes to have the support spar added.

Next step is to get stuck in on the engine while that's away being properly sorted.

As long as the two upper holes are good with them being an alinement fit it should be an enjoyable reassembly.

I will suggest, parts can not be clean enough, an oil filter is of little use (even if it was in the pressure side of the pump) if there is any form of debris between it and the connecting rod bearings at first start up.
I go to great lengths to make sure every oil passage is clean, that includes bits that could detach.

Oil feed holes chamfered including the inner side in the sludge trap from the drilling process at manufacture.
If the journal is to be ground under size the feed holes can be readdressed before that material removal (which can reduce the external chamfer)

On an existing journal I light polish them with immersed #2000 then shoe string type polishing with Autosol and towelling strips then cleaned. (That includes the journal side radius)
All other holes get a light chamfer which includes all at the joint between the flywheel and crank half for maximum contact.

(I do wonder if some Commando's have a oil pressure loss at the two flywheel join faces)

This crank measured up on the money at 1.75" (44.45 mm) and would have been a crime to grind it.
There is not excuse to have an unreliable 'old motorcycle, all it takes is time in many cases.



Keep up the great work and always good to see someone with dark hair hands on.

Fast Eddie said:

Take it to Pete, or at least someone who knows Norton’s. If you take it to your local normal car engine machine shop they’ll likely grind away the radius leaving you with a crank about as strong as a carrot...

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Depends if the grinder is an actual Norton man himself, like mine was .