New owner - first 24hrs

I can send via courier and collect so will have to do that.

Had another ride last night, covered about 30 miles. Warmed bike up this time for 2 mins not 5, still conked out at end of road and fault light was on. Carried on and at each junction/roundabout etc clutch in and held the revs and this stopped it cutting out. At 3500 revs, its going about 62 mph and I did this with some mini blasts to get past lorries. It was around 1 degC and snowing a bit and I was freezing. Riding at 3500 revs, I could feel it pulling back a bit, however after about 15 miles the warning light went out. Unfortunately thinking that all was well, I stopped in the normal way not keeping the revs going and it cut out on me in some heavy traffic, wheeled it to side and started again and rod off and light came on again.

Back to holding the revs and chomping through the next 500 miles. I am fairly sure once I get it serviced and the news de-cat and pipes fitted, all will be ok. My guzzi always behaved itself to be fair, am hoping this improves soon.
 
MxMartin said:
That was the first thing I asked them to do.... hold on to the bits ready for first service, but it was explained that they don't have the facility to store 150 sets of 'anniversary' spare parts. I thought about sending my exhausts via courier ahead of it's service but then I'd have the additional prob of getting the original set back home.... so I shall just have to convince my missus to follow me down in the car, maybe treat her to a fancy lunch in Castle Donington :)
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Smart man, lovely wife. Since I went down, I'm kind of on my own. Keep the shiny side up.
 
Welshrugby said:
I can send via courier and collect so will have to do that.

Had another ride last night, covered about 30 miles. Warmed bike up this time for 2 mins not 5, still conked out at end of road and fault light was on. Carried on and at each junction/roundabout etc clutch in and held the revs and this stopped it cutting out. At 3500 revs, its going about 62 mph and I did this with some mini blasts to get past lorries. It was around 1 degC and snowing a bit and I was freezing. Riding at 3500 revs, I could feel it pulling back a bit, however after about 15 miles the warning light went out. Unfortunately thinking that all was well, I stopped in the normal way not keeping the revs going and it cut out on me in some heavy traffic, wheeled it to side and started again and rod off and light came on again.

Back to holding the revs and chomping through the next 500 miles. I am fairly sure once I get it serviced and the news de-cat and pipes fitted, all will be ok. My guzzi always behaved itself to be fair, am hoping this improves soon.
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Hi - I had the engine light going on and off - mainly on - for my 700 miles. It was on when I first collected it and they hooked a laptop up to the ECU said it did that on the particular map and sent me off. I gave them a call to let them know it was still on, just to cover myself in case anything happened,which you may want to do. The stalling is a bit of a puzzler and must make that initial running in even worse than usual. Have the factory said anything about it? As I understand there is a motorised valve which the ECU controls the tickover with so is something going on there? Either way you are right - it sounds like the first service remap seems to cure a lot of issues. How about getting one of those bicycle turbo trainers from Halfords and set up the Norton in the living room in front of a few TV box sets.....
 
Hate to be a downer, but stalling like that seems to be more of an issue than just open pipes and a remap. I'm wondering if you're having an intermittent problem with a switch, sensor or relay. Get under the hump and make sure all your fuses and relays are pushed all the way in, to start. Almost sounds like your fuel supply is cutting off or an ignition problem. Can't explain the engine light. Never even seen it in 4 years. I wouldn't wait for routine maintenance service. I'd drop it right back in their laps and say fix it NOW.
 
I have written to them so its on record and had a chat with them and I agreed that i would ride it a few times to see if things improved. But they said if I'm unhappy and don't think its right, to take it back and they would try and sort. I will see how I get on maybe over the next 2-3 weeks.

I took the seat of the other night and the connections at first didn't look good but then I realised it was just a sleeve that slides over the connections that wasn't sitting quite right. I will check all of the connections again before the next ride. Thanks chaps for the comments and suggestions.
 
I took the seat of the other night and the connections at first didn't look good but then I realised it was just a sleeve that slides over the connections that wasn't sitting quite right. I will check all of the connections again before the next ride. Thanks chaps for the comments and suggestions.

It seems odd that it ticks over, yet cuts on the overrun when riding. Most weird problems seem to sensor based - TPS , crank or temp. Just don't put yourself at risk while riding.
 
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TonyA said:
Give it a 1/4 turn more of the throttle stop screw ?
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It’s important that great care is done when turning that screw. Good light and good eyesight is key. Zero is when the grub screw or set screw touches. Not touching and in 1/4 turn. Also, its true test is at operating temp. The IDLE AIR MOTOR and TPS make adjustments until operating temp so a 1/8 turn may not be noticeable until 10 minutes of riding.
 
richard-7 said:
It’s important that great care is done when turning that screw. Good light and good eyesight is key. Zero is when the grub screw or set screw touches. Not touching and in 1/4 turn. Also, its true test is at operating temp. The IDLE AIR MOTOR and TPS make adjustments until operating temp so a 1/8 turn may not be noticeable until 10 minutes of riding.
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Hi - this is interesting; so the ECU only uses the idle solenoid until the bike is up at working temperature?
 
Clive said:
Hi - this is interesting; so the ECU only uses the idle solenoid until the bike is up at working temperature?
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No. The ecu makes compensation but can only make so much. So this screw needs to be tested and finely adjusted at operating temp. Otherwise it will stall coming off high revs like pulling in clutch coming to a stop. Or opposite and increase revs. And you can slow down and pulling in the clutch means revs at 2,800
 
Welshrugby said:
I have written to them so its on record and had a chat with them and I agreed that i would ride it a few times to see if things improved. But they said if I'm unhappy and don't think its right, to take it back and they would try and sort. I will see how I get on maybe over the next 2-3 weeks.

I took the seat of the other night and the connections at first didn't look good but then I realised it was just a sleeve that slides over the connections that wasn't sitting quite right. I will check all of the connections again before the next ride. Thanks chaps for the comments and suggestions.
Click to expand...
As weather not to great atm, I’d take it back now , sure they would sought it on the spot, Cant be much & be ready to use when that sun comes out
 
There is extensive posting on here from several years ago about the stalling problem. At normal temp turn the pot screw with a 2 mm allen wrench about 1/8 turn at a time until the problem stops. If you go to far you will have an idle problem when hot. The screw slows down the throttle bodies from slamming shut too fast before the ECU can establish idle. As far as the bike with the check lite coming on that is most likely a different problem! This adjustment is very sensitive and many bikes are delivered improperly adjusted.
 
You can do this test. With the bike as close to normal operating temp as you can get ( most of us can't ride now ) hold the bike at about 3000 rpm and then chop the throttle as if you were coming to a stop for a red lite etc. If your tach needle goes down rapidly with no hesitation at 1100rpm right down to stalling ( cutting out ) the screw is most likely your problem. As you adjust the screw you should see the tach falling slower. Count your turns and if this doesn't solve your problem you can turn it back to original position, nothing lost.
You can do an approximate adjustment in your garage with this method!
 
MxMartin said:
If you have seen my post in the 50th Anniv. thread you will know that I took delight in taking receipt of my new Cafe Racer on Friday, so I thought I would share my first 24hour experiences which might be helpful to some....

Key in ignition, turn on, nothing! Turn key off, check kill switch etc., scratch head, turn key on... panel lights up :)

LCD displays ODO mileage, press mode button display shows TRIP mileage, press again display shows Volts, press again back to ODO... is that all of the modes? I wasn't expecting various traction control modes but surprised you can't switch ABS off or see fuel level or fuel consumption.

Tried light switches, all ok except the left cluster slide switch which selects main/park/off... mine is stuck on main, won't budge. Headlamp has parking bulb. Are EURO4 machines fixed to run main light only?

Turned ignition off. Added 3 Litre of regular unleaded. Ignition back on, pulled in clutch, pressed starter switch and engine immediately fired up. Throttle response was fluffy for first 20-30 seconds but soon settled and after a minute or two idling the engine responded to light throttle movement. Exhausts very quiet, engine quite noisy. Turned engine off after about 5 mins of warming up :)

Rolled bike into garage, hmm, steering lock left to right is quite minimal, had to do a 5-point turn where my triumph does it with ease lol

Found battery charge lead at top of right rear shock, same plug as on my Optimate4 so plugged her in. Optimate went straight to 0.8A charge and finished the full cycle after 2hrs so battery must have been quite low.

I found the two seat allen bolts and removed them for a peep under seat. Those seat bots are screaming for a custom replacement, thought it was quite a crude arrangement.

Tried to open oil tank filler but my cap is screwed (is it screwed or push?) on too tight, going to need some kind of wrench to shift it.

Time to change the stem mirrors to those nice billet bar end items, straightforward I thought... wrong. Both the stem mirrors also act as fixing bolts for the clutch and brake fluid reservoir brackets. Removed left stem mirror, replaced it with M8 button bolt. Removed right stem mirror... it is left hand thread... no M8 l/h bolts in my spares so used the bottom fixing of the stem mirror to hold reservoir in place as temp fix. Fitted left bar end mirror, very nice rear view. Fitted right bar end mirror only to discover that the internal ball joint of mirror not tightened up so it wobbles... easy enough to disassemble but alarmingly each mirror has a total of 7 allen bolts in it's makeup and none of them have ant thread lock, not very Norton proof me thinks so I shall strip both mirrors down and use a loctite or similar.

I then stopped admiring and tinkering and got down to the business of measuring up my new thumb brake.

My impressions so far.... she is drop dead gorgeous I am still pinching myself for being this lucky!
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Great read mate ,hope to get mine in March cafe racer in Manx silver. If your looking for some good advice drop Clive a line he's the one giving you advice regarding your mirrors really helpful bloke Got great advice from him about paint seat and collecting bike.
Cannot wait to get mine Still have a John Player Commando from the 70s had from new.
At first thought i had made a mistake with a cafe racer but at 62 will only be riding around 20 miles in one go as lucky all my meeting places are local cannot wait to get mine.
 
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Fast Eddie said:
Ref the stock mirror stalk remains, I spoke to the factory asking them to use Allen bolts or similar in order to be able to remove the remains of the standard mirror stalks, which, of course, look pretty hideous otherwise.

The show bikes had stainless button head Allen bolts fitted in this application, which looked perfectly ok.

However, it is, and I quote: “Too difficult and expensive” for the factory PDI dept to do this...

So, I ordered a couple of left and right hand thread socket head stainless Allen bolts, off of eBay for peanuts.

So, it seems, a crisis has been averted.
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Hi Eddie ref these mirror left and right replacement cap screws need to get some can you please let me know what size they are.
Cheers.
 
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john clark said:
Hi Eddie ref these mirror left and right replacement cap screws need to get some can you please let me know what size they are.
Cheers.
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M8.

If you read back through this thread somewhere I posted an eBay link where I got mine from. Stainless left hand thread M8 Allen screws aren’t so common it seems.
 

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