New Old Belt Drive

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swooshdave said:
I wonder if because of the additional surface area of the drum that the teeth don't have as much impact. Not that I haven't seen worn drums, it's just that worn hub seem more common.
Click to expand...
New Old Belt Drive

The clutch has a good number of miles on it and there’s absolutely no sign of wear where the steel plates where. It’s as smooth as the day it was made. Pretty impressive.
 
New Old Belt Drive

I assumed the back part of the drum was alloy just because it looks so nice. Turns out it’s probably SS although it’s pretty magnetic. I believe magnetism is different for different grades of SS. Still a beautiful piece of hardware that you’ll never see.
 
According to Steve's web site...

MANEY BELT DRIVE SYSTEMS
Smoother running, lightweight, no power sapping chain and no chaincase oil leaks. These are all things that are guaranteed to improve road bikes and racers alike. I manufactured and used my first belt drive in 1984 and all these years of experience have shown me which belts are the best and how to mount the clutch bearing in steel. System includes: belt, front pulley, clutch basket & sealed bearing
 
Fast Eddie said:
According to Steve's web site...

MANEY BELT DRIVE SYSTEMS
Smoother running, lightweight, no power sapping chain and no chaincase oil leaks. These are all things that are guaranteed to improve road bikes and racers alike. I manufactured and used my first belt drive in 1984 and all these years of experience have shown me which belts are the best and how to mount the clutch bearing in steel. System includes: belt, front pulley, clutch basket & sealed bearing
Click to expand...
I wonder if he used aluminum at first?
 
swooshdave said:
I wonder if he used aluminum at first?
Click to expand...
The way I read the blurb it looks like he used steel becasue of experience, ie solving problems. So I’d guess he started with alloy and went to steel. But I’m only guessing, I’ve not asked him directly.

Not that it matters to us mere mortals with out street bikes.
 
Good news, bad news. I went to take the chain off to get at the front sprocket. That’s when I noticed the chain is a 5200. Well, looks like I’ll have a new 530 20T sprocket in my spares. And I’ll run the 22T for a while and see if I like it.
 
Someone was asking how to locate the lollipop. I should have taken this picture before I put the inner on but I hope you get the idea.

New Old Belt Drive


Place the lollipop over the bolt and the bolt should be about at the halfway point in the slot. Then put the crosshead about halfway down the threaded part of the lollipop. Now place the crosshead anywhere on the arc created by the lollipop. Mark where the crosshead sits, pull everything off a drill. The cradle isn't the hardest steel in the world. I drill the first time with a small bit. The out to actual size. I think I've documented this before, but some of the older posts are hard to find.

For me if I find that I need the second adjuster I should be able to install it easily with the inner chain case installed. I hope.
 
swooshdave said:
So last summer some of you might recall my adventures messing with the clutch to get it better. In the end I had to settle and call it good enough. The plan was to replace it with a belt drive in the near future which would probably require more messing to get it sorted again.

Well, the belt drive is coming sooner than I had planned. Pour yourself another coffee or adult beverage (depending on what time you are reading this, and if there's an adult beverage in your coffee I'm not here to judge) and I'll tell the story. Even fewer of you might recall my steering wheel story and how it comes around to a belt drive. The story goes that I was at a swap meet a really long time (late 80s?) I picked up a wooden Momo steering wheel that I had planned on putting on my TR-4. Well I never put it on the car and it was just hanging on a nail in my garage. Eventually I started to feel bad that it was never going to get used so I figured that I should see if it was worth anything. After some research I found out it was original equipment for the Ferrari Daytona (Euro spec). Keep in mind I paid $50 for the wheel which was a lot for me at the time (poor college student). I posted on a Ferrari forum and a nice dentist in Texas offered an obscene amount for the Daytona he was restoring. So I took some of the windfall and bought my brother a Maney belt drive for his Norton. I already had a RGM kit on my bike but always thought the Maney was a nice piece of hardware.

You might see where this is going. So fast forward to more recent news. My brother sold his Moto Guzzi and then went and splurged on a CNW electric starter(!) so now the Maney belt drive became redundant as the starter kit comes with a belt drive. So now I'm going to get the Maney belt drive from him for my 850.

So the first step is to strip the primary:

New Old Belt Drive

New Old Belt Drive

New Old Belt Drive
Click to expand...
Sorry off topic. Can you tell me what thread type and diameter of bolt fits into the centre hub when compressing the diaphragm on the clutch.
thanks
 
I got a new sealed bearing and the hub fit slightly better. Still would have liked more of a press fit. This was a C3 bearing from OB so I'm guessing the hub is a touch small. As the bearing doesn't see much action unless the lever in pulled I hope it's ok.



Turns out that I had to take a smidge off the outside of a couple of the plates and the pressure plate to get it to fit in a Maney basket. The plates that were a little worn didn't have a problem. And I didn't have to take off much.

New Old Belt Drive

New Old Belt Drive

I gave the cover a little bit of polishing. Now I just need something to show up in the mail to fill those holes. :cool:

The reality is that the bike needs to come down off the lift and see if the belt stays on and if I need the second adjuster to fine tune things. I didn't move the gearbox at all and the belt is nice and loose. It's always shocking to see how loose the belt is when cold and how much it tightens when the bike warms up.
 
swooshdave said:
I got a new sealed bearing and the hub fit slightly better. Still would have liked more of a press fit. This was a C3 bearing from OB so I'm guessing the hub is a touch small. As the bearing doesn't see much action unless the lever in pulled I hope it's ok.



Turns out that I had to take a smidge off the outside of a couple of the plates and the pressure plate to get it to fit in a Maney basket. The plates that were a little worn didn't have a problem. And I didn't have to take off much.

New Old Belt Drive

New Old Belt Drive

I gave the cover a little bit of polishing. Now I just need something to show up in the mail to fill those holes. :cool:

The reality is that the bike needs to come down off the lift and see if the belt stays on and if I need the second adjuster to fine tune things. I didn't move the gearbox at all and the belt is nice and loose. It's always shocking to see how loose the belt is when cold and how much it tightens when the bike warms up.
Click to expand...


Interesting set of numbers you have above the s/n on the crankcase. Where did they come from?
 
The C3 Is the bearing internal clearances it has nothing to do with the "fit" slip or press. If you want a tighter fit to make sure you don't get race creap then you need a new part or some loctite 609 assemble with bearing cold and hub warm with 609 on the OD this will help keep the 609 from pushing off the OD.

Nice work!
 
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