New Brake Pads!

Edfury828

Edfury828

VIP MEMBER
Joined
Jun 21, 2023
Messages
80
Country flag
I know this is not real exciting stuff, but I just ordered two sets of Ferodo Platinum 06-6005F brake pads from Commando Specialties on ebay for my MK III.

From what I gathered on this forum they should be pretty good pads. I was seeing a part number with a "C" at the end of it on the forum, rather than an "F", but the posts were older. Maybe the F is just newer than the C? The ad also said 39 sets had been sold, so someone must like them, and I saw no ads for the # with the C. Hopefully that will be good?

EBC looked good too, but it seemed there was a slight preference for the Ferodos, and if they are a little better, that will justify the additional cost.

The PO of my bike said he soaked the pads which are on it now, in solvent overnight, a couple of times a year, which supposedly made them better, but, he said, they never work very well. I have never heard of that, and am not even thinking of trying it! Buying quality pads seemed like a much better idea to me, lol!

The stock master cyl. has been upgraded and I have the braided stainless lines with stock calipers and rotors, even dot-4 silicone fluid, but it doesn't stop well at all. Hopefully these Ferodos will make the difference! It does seem like a good plan for now!
 
Edfury828 said:
From what I gathered on this forum they should be pretty good pads. I was seeing a part number with a "C" at the end of it on the forum, rather than an "F", but the posts were older. Maybe the F is just newer than the C?
Click to expand...

I think it's just different companies way of identifying the Ferodo Platinum pads.
British Cycle uses 'C'

The actual Ferodo part number is FDB88P
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

FERODO PLATINUM SERIES BRAKE PADS, COMMANDO

RGM NORTON FERODO BRAKE PADS WW38153 FDB88P
www.rgmnorton.co.uk
 
Edfury828 said:
I know this is not real exciting stuff, but I just ordered two sets of Ferodo Platinum 06-6005F brake pads from Commando Specialties on ebay for my MK III.

From what I gathered on this forum they should be pretty good pads. I was seeing a part number with a "C" at the end of it on the forum, rather than an "F", but the posts were older. Maybe the F is just newer than the C? The ad also said 39 sets had been sold, so someone must like them, and I saw no ads for the # with the C. Hopefully that will be good?

EBC looked good too, but it seemed there was a slight preference for the Ferodos, and if they are a little better, that will justify the additional cost.

The PO of my bike said he soaked the pads which are on it now, in solvent overnight, a couple of times a year, which supposedly made them better, but, he said, they never work very well. I have never heard of that, and am not even thinking of trying it! Buying quality pads seemed like a much better idea to me, lol!

The stock master cyl. has been upgraded and I have the braided stainless lines with stock calipers and rotors, even dot-4 silicone fluid, but it doesn't stop well at all. Hopefully these Ferodos will make the difference! It does seem like a good plan for now!
Click to expand...

Hopefully the experts will chime in, but I know that a lot of cars do not like silicone fluid, seemed to be a fad that didn't work well, especially in the older cars. I'm running ATE Type 200 Dot 4 in my Norton with the bigger master, SS line, and Grimecia (sp) caliper, works well......I hope this doesn't start a oil type thread....
 
L.A.B. said:
I think it's just different companies way of identifying the Ferodo Platinum pads.
British Cycle uses 'C'

The actual Ferodo part number is FDB88P
www.rgmnorton.co.uk

FERODO PLATINUM SERIES BRAKE PADS, COMMANDO

RGM NORTON FERODO BRAKE PADS WW38153 FDB88P
www.rgmnorton.co.uk
Click to expand...
Ah, mystery solved about the C and F. That's a relief, I was a little worried that I'd have to send them back!
Funny about the actual part number too, I wanted to post a picture of the package, but every one I found said FDB88P which I thought was wrong, ha ha ha!

And what is this removing of the rotor's chrome? I have never heard of that, but I've seen it mentioned on this forum. Do you mean turning the rotor on a lathe? Mine do look "glassy" smooth. I would prefer a rough surface. If the "chrome" is removed, do they rust?

I have considered buying drilled rotors, but they seem way over priced! Is there an affordable source? I keep spending money in order to set this bike up right, but I'm not made of it, just another working guy!
 
74 Cafe' said:
Hopefully the experts will chime in, but I know that a lot of cars do not like silicone fluid, seemed to be a fad that didn't work well, especially in the older cars. I'm running ATE Type 200 Dot 4 in my Norton with the bigger master, SS line, and Grimecia (sp) caliper, works well......I hope this doesn't start a oil type thread....
Click to expand...
My old school tendency has always been to avoid the Dot-4 brake fluid, which I think is always silicone, but the consensus I've seen lately is that is good! It came in my bike from the PO too, so now I've got it!
 
74 Cafe' said:
Hopefully the experts will chime in, but I know that a lot of cars do not like silicone fluid, seemed to be a fad that didn't work well, especially in the older cars. I'm running ATE Type 200 Dot 4 in my Norton with the bigger master, SS line, and Grimecia (sp) caliper, works well......I hope this doesn't start a oil type thread....
Click to expand...
Everyone who has ridden a Commando hard enough to boil brake fluid (NOT fade the lining) please raise your hand.

I tried DOT 5 silicone fluid on a bike in the 80's, for the non-hygroscopic value.
The long term corrosive damage was it for me.
 
Edfury828 said:
Ah, mystery solved about the C and F. That's a relief, I was a little worried that I'd have to send them back!
Funny about the actual part number too, I wanted to post a picture of the package, but every one I found said FDB88P which I thought was wrong, ha ha ha!

And what is this removing of the rotor's chrome? I have never heard of that, but I've seen it mentioned on this forum. Do you mean turning the rotor on a lathe? Mine do look "glassy" smooth. I would prefer a rough surface. If the "chrome" is removed, do they rust?

I have considered buying drilled rotors, but they seem way over priced! Is there an affordable source? I keep spending money in order to set this bike up right, but I'm not made of it, just another working guy!
Click to expand...
Chrome rotors was an idea that sucked. The low friction coefficient made it a very poor choice.
Yes, iron rusts. It also stops great.
Mine was half worn off, finished it on a lathe. (Thanks to reeding of it's merits here)
Bolt-on options exist.
 
Last edited:
concours said:
Chrome rotors was an idea that sucked. The low friction coefficient made it a very poor choice.
Yes, iron rusts. It also stops great.
Mine was half worn off, finished it on a lathe.
Bolt-on options exist.
Click to expand...
Stopping is important, but rust looks soooo bad!

I would probably be interested in replacements that don't have the "chrome", or that stop properly with it.
 
Edfury828 said:
Stopping is important, but rust looks soooo bad!

I would probably be interested in replacements that don't have the "chrome", or that stop properly with it.
Click to expand...
I send my rotors here: https://truedisk.net/ They come back flat, true, and without chrome and it's not expensive. They stop better but standard Norton front brakes are just usable - simply not great. Either learn to live with them or replace with better:

https://coloradonortonworks.net/part-categories/cnw-brake-systems-parts.html
or
https://www.tritonmotorcycleparts.com/297620484/297620488

They don't look original, do look good, and will stop you. there may be others, but those are the two I've used.
 
You said the stock M/C has been upgraded, was the M/C sleeved down to a smaller bore size than std? (from 5/8" bore to something like 13mm) This increases the mechanical advantage of the system, making the brake less wooden feeling and able to stop as it should. RGM do a kit to sleeve the M/C, but it needs engineering facilitys to fit said kit. Avoid drilling the disc, it makes them prone to warping. Grind the chrome off.
 
dobba99 said:
You said the stock M/C has been upgraded, was the M/C sleeved down to a smaller bore size than std? (from 5/8" bore to something like 13mm) This increases the mechanical advantage of the system, making the brake less wooden feeling and able to stop as it should. RGM do a kit to sleeve the M/C, but it needs engineering facilitys to fit said kit. Avoid drilling the disc, it makes them prone to warping. Grind the chrome off.
Click to expand...
Yes, I was told that the master cyl. was sleeved down to 13mm using a kit. I can only assume that it was done properly...

I am familiar with the process of "turning" a rotor on a brake lathe. I've done it myself thousands of times with cars. Is this what is meant by removing or grinding off the chrome? If not, what is the method of achieving chrome removal, and what is meant by The Chrome?

Are the rotors chrome plated? I have never heard of that specifically. The chrome could not be removed if it were an alloy, so these stock rotors must be plated? How deep or thick is this chrome plating?

The totality of my motorcycling experience has been since 2015 when I purchased a new Royal Enfield Classic 500. People on the internet said the brakes sucked, but they seemed fine to me. The same year I added a new Bonneville T-100. Again, people on the internet said the brakes sucked, but they seemed fine to me. Same for my 2012 Triumph Scrambler with a DMC M72D sidecar, although it does have an additional dic on the tub.

I currently hav
 
Oops, new guy mistake! I accidentally hit post prematurely and can't undo it.


As I was about to say, I do have over 50,000 miles that I've ridden, (that's nothing compared to many, I know) so I do have some understanding of what is adequate for me. If I can brake like a 2015 Royal Enfield, or Bonneville, I will be content with that.

I am a bit put off at the prospect of rusty rotors on my Norton however. Maybe I'll get used to it, or maybe it's not that bad? It just seems there would be a sensibly priced non- rusting rotor for a Norton which also stops reasonably well. What ever happened to Free Enterprise?

Meanwhile, I will remove my chrome as soon as I know what that means.

I do appreciate all input, and am grateful for the lifetimes of experience and wisdom which is so freely offered here on this board.
Thank you,
Ed
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top