My first hot rod Norton

Todays project! My first hot rod NortonMy first hot rod Norton

Waiting to weld till after trans and wheel sprocket are aligned. If anyone has a blue print of the rear cradle, I'd appreciate it(save me some figuring). Still waiting on pistons, rear wheel and neck stem bearings.
 
I was thinking about getting that. You should use Ti fasteners to really take advantage
 
I have looked into Ti since my first guess on prices, $40 a bolt is just too much. If things change or I find a cheaper source I can change them out
 
Got neck stem bearings today, turned down neck stem to 32mm and wala its on Norton frame.. Had to make a spacer to lower bottom tree so it cleared the frame down tubes FWI I got bearings on line from 123 Bearing. Shipped from France. Ordered Saturday got the today Wednesday. They list a lot of odd sizes mine were 52mm od by 32mm id

My first hot rod Norton
 
Got $85 ebay gas tank and $50 rear wheel yesterday. I can work with the tank but the rear wheel is a problem! Wanted to match front wheel. The rear wheels came in two widths, I took the narrow one, 3.5 inches. As you can see it is off center by the width of the cush drive although the disc break would work fine. More time looking less time doing. I changed clip on's to the top for tank clearance don't know if that's where they will stay.. Angle of front tubes are 26 degrees hoping for 27-28, again till on the ground it might be ok.

My first hot rod NortonMy first hot rod NortonMy first hot rod Norton
 
I'm sure Seeley or Champion have a better system for checking frame alignment, remember junkyard. Machined cush drive down in width used a sealed bearing removing the seal, 3/16 of an inch by itself. Set sprocket back in toward center 1/4 inch. Put center line on my work lift, leveled frame and Iso system, centered wheels. Everything looks doable. Had to order 17mm shaft material for rear axel. Still waiting on pistons. Unsure about gas tank, Lowered and leveled, just needs something.My first hot rod NortonMy first hot rod Norton
 
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My What Am I Getting Myself Into Combat Build Thread

You are doing it right. The red lettering on the Excel rims is a little weird for a Commando. It works better on a tracker style or full road race faired Norton for me. But you will like everything you have done. It should be a pleasure to ride and own. I think pristine restorations are very...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
Wheel alignment is the last thing I do when building a bike, and I do it with string lines. That does not detect and twist in the swing arm or error in the pivot mount in relation to the steering head. If you have twist, the rear tyre's contact patch moves slightly sideways as the rear suspension compresses.
 
Laser looks like the real answer, and doing it last makes sense. Last thing I'll do is check alignment after new Iso's (now solid bushings) but needed to know these Kawasaki wheels would work and frame was straight as I can check. Thanks
 
mean gene said:
Laser looks like the real answer, and doing it last makes sense. Last thing I'll do is check alignment after new Iso's (now solid bushings) but needed to know these Kawasaki wheels would work and frame was straight as I can check. Thanks
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Do it from above and behind and straight down the frame spine with a level across the shock gussets and you can see if your wheel is plumb too.
 
It depends what you mean by ‘last’.

If you actually mean ‘last’ ie after all the painting and final assembly etc, that’s not even possible!

We’re not talking about wheel alignment for chain adjustment. We’re talking about wheel and sprocket alignment at the build stage.

Depending how radical you’re being with choice of parts, width of tyres, etc will dictate the work that needs doing (moving or modifying the swinging arm, making dished gearbox sprockets, cutting the rear of the primary case away, moving the gearbox over, etc, are all things that are done).

It needs sorting now IMHO. FWIW, this is how I do it:

1) check the frame and yokes etc are true
2) set the front wheel dead centre in the forks
3) set the rear hub position by aligning the sprockets
4) with the rear hub and front wheel set, use laser or straight edge etc to calculate required rear rim to hub offset
5) fit and check and repeat step 4 as required
6) number of reputations of step 4 dictated by your accuracy of measuring !
 
I do not think I have ever had a situation with a Britiish motorcycle where the gearbox sprocket and the rear sprocket did not align. And I have user Triumph gearbox in A10 BSA frame with BSA rear wheel. Triumph and Norton gearbox in featherbed frame with Ariel and 7R AJS rear wheel. Perhaps the British work with versatility ? The parts might be more interchangeable than expected ?
I might have changed the spacers on the rear axle. But I don't think I ever had to pull the rim across by tightening and loosening spokes, on opposite sides of the rim.
 
acotrel said:
I do not think I have ever had a situation with a Britiish motorcycle where the gearbox sprocket and the rear sprocket did not align. And I have user Triumph gearbox in A10 BSA frame with BSA rear wheel. Triumph and Norton gearbox in featherbed frame with Ariel and 7R AJS rear wheel. Perhaps the British work with versatility ? The parts might be more interchangeable than expected ?
I might have changed the spacers on the rear axle. But I don't think I ever had to pull the rim across by tightening and loosening spokes, on opposite sides of the rim.
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That’s because you’ve never built a special using, for example, wider wheels, wheels off of a modern bike, etc.
 
A Fred . Thread ! Cotton / mylar . Tight . Steel fishing wire . big rubber bands , and other things. And a square and a level . whatever .

SPROCKET , that there sprocket OBVIOUSLY has some holes !
Looks like if you got TWO ( one wouldnt need teeth , good ones , anyway . ) cut a big hole in the good one , cut the outside off the one going on ,
and if needed a third as a spacer ( drilled ring ) . a few top line bolts and bolt the operateing sprocket In Line with the g Box cog wheel ! ,
Weld aeronautically , if reqd .

RATHER THAN MACHINE WHEELS & THINGS .
 
Gene

Different topic:

You asked me about head pipe lengths on an exhaust I have on a 750. Are you planning on building your own exhaust system?
 
Thinking of it. Most "systems " are chrome and expensive. Thinking of wrapping it and maybe running under the seat Ducati style, BUT that's just thinking ..I've made my own headers for my street rods in the past but just takes me so long and the waste.
 
mean gene said:
Thinking of it. Most "systems " are chrome and expensive. Thinking of wrapping it and maybe running under the seat Ducati style, BUT that's just thinking ..I've made my own headers for my street rods in the past but just takes me so long and the waste.
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Gene,
Got a pair of spare 1 5/8 headers in the shed - I can measure them up if you want. Viking Exhaust made them for me.

Ctefeh
 

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