My first hot rod Norton

Thought about titanium bolts no local supplier and at least $4.50 each. If I found a supplier I can cut and thread. Ducati uses a hollow head thru drilled bolts, I suppose they are chrome moly of some sort.
They project funds are not that large to warrant forged crank but I am having a conversation with a gentleman that thinks he has a steel center

For Ti, the best prices (i found) are from Whitebread Racing


Another good supplier is Ti64


That said, not sure the expense is worth it especially if it's low on the center of mass. Best weight savings are the footpegs and iron cylinder barrel (and crank), then the spoke wheels. Then there's a lithium battery. The exhaust isn;t light either. A Ti exhaust would be pretty sweet

And for some strange reason, these bikes seem to have gotten a lot heavier in the last 20 years

mean gene said:

When I mocked up the Norton cast trees, tubes with lowers, and 4 shoe front break with wheel and tire it weighted 11 pounds more then a complete 636 Kawasaki front end I had. 11 pounds is a lot so ditch the 70's look and go for the naked road racer look. The 636 front will need some machining but really an easy fit. Here are some mock up pics promise to add as build progresses Please chime in if you see something wrong!

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You'll find the 636 yokes will give you a parking lot turning radius of about 100' diameter, unless you clearance the gas tank. "Don't ask how I know this". The stem is a very easy fit to the headstock.

mean gene said:

34mm flat slide Mikuni's.

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You'll need very short intakes for some type of air cleaner to clear the frame web...

Is there a bearing that will make the stem fit directly. I have been talking to All Balls, there is a bearing that should fit but they haven't answered my question. Was planning on using original fiberglass tank but won't work. I'll find something and bash the sides in till it clears!

GP's comment made me think, which does take a lot out of me. lol

You can reshape the flange mount into a spigot mount on the old MAP(?) twin Mikuni intake manifolds you have, and use automotive fuel tank filler hose or some fancy aircraft large diameter hose for the spigot mount to make slightly shorter intakes if required.

Did you already mock up two TM's side by side with the MAP twin intake manifolds? I see you have one mounted on the motor in the first set of pics.

Looking good so far, Gene. Wish my progress was going as fast as yours.

Ken

My Seeley 850 was originally a Seeley Laverda 750SF, but when I tracked the bike down, I could not get the Laverda motor. I think I was lucky - the Norton 850 motor is much lighter. The Laverda motor would have been able to pull much higher revs. But al it means is I am forced to use the Norton 850 motor in a different way.
If you are buying brakes - disc brakes are superior to drum - cheaper and much more reliable. If you Norton is going to really go, you need two discs on the front with the correct pads.. The chrome-plated single Norton disc is rubbish. It would not stop a billy-cart speeding uphill.
Do not use cast iron discs.

While waiting for pistons (MAP Cycle is in the middle of the hurricane hit in Florida, I hope all is well) I got the tap to finish the aluminum replacement parts on Iso system and had a chance to attack my inner and outer primary covers. Plan on a Newby belt drive. May be more holes later but I don't want to loose the Norton identity. Both carbs will fit as seen in earlier pics but not sure if I want to lengthen intakes and do something with oil tank. Been talking to a guy in Texas who raced Nortons and has lots of experience and parts. Doing a lot of staring and not much work!

mean gene said:

While waiting for pistons (MAP Cycle is in the middle of the hurricane hit in Florida, I hope all is well) I got the tap to finish the aluminum replacement parts on Iso system and had a chance to attack my inner and outer primary covers. Plan on a Newby belt drive. May be more holes later but I don't want to loose the Norton identity. Both carbs will fit as seen in earlier pics but not sure if I want to lengthen intakes and do something with oil tank. Been talking to a guy in Texas who raced Nortons and has lots of experience and parts. Doing a lot of staring and not much work!



View attachment 99728View attachment 99729

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Staring is helpful.

Nice tastefully done work on the holes and other openings on the primary cases.

Nice holes, but think the big one over the clutch may preclude the need for the others

"Doing a lot of staring and not much work!"

My favorite part of a project.
I seem to be good at it.........

Ok todays project was changing to left shift. This may not work out be won't be able to complete till I get belt drive. Plan on running it thru the inner and outer primary, using them as a bushing. I will weld a lever on the splined boss after I locate hole thru primary. Only time will tell! Parts used were original right shift cut off and machined

I have ridden both right and left shift bikes. The first time i rode left shift, I dropped my mate's new Suzuki Hustler. He was killed in 'Nam, and I don't know whether he ever forgave me. After that I never had a problem changing from one to the other.

RIP John Desnoy,
Russian rocket at Fire Support Base Coral.

The primary drive on my Seeley is single row chain with Manx type clutch. Engine sprocket is Jawa speedway, and I have 4 of different sizes up to 25 teeth. They float on a splined carrier to compensate for the different clutch position. For road racing, the chain can run with only minimal lubrication The chain cover is a thin 50mm wide steel outer strip which goes right around. Four Dzus fasteners hold a thin alumium cover to the outer. It is all very light. The only bolts on my bike which are not titaniun are the axles and the pivot shaft. It is all academic, because my barrels are cast iron - with methanol fuel, iron is better than alumium. Getting heat into an all aluminium motor can be a problem with alcohol fuel. - Pistons grow as the motor warms up.
My mate can machine titanium. I watched him machine the shafts which hold my gearbox. As you cut it, it flows and changes dimension - so you always need to be one step ahead.
I think when the machine shop shortened my engine bolts, they simply ran a die nut down them - the cut off the excess. They were out-of-shelf-life parts for the F/A 18.
I often use to visit an aircraft parts supplier at Moorabbin Airport in Melbourne.

acotrel said:

The primary drive on my Seeley is single row chain with Manx type clutch. Engine sprocket is Jawa speedway, and I have 4 of different sizes up to 25 teeth. They float on a splined carrier to compensate for the different clutch position. For road racing, the chain can run with only minimal lubrication The chain cover is a thin 50mm wide steel outer strip which goes right around. Four Dzus fasteners hold a thin alumium cover to the outer. It is all very light.

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So you are running the AMC 3 spring clutch dry? How do the roller bearings in the clutch roller cage get lubricated?

Belt drive

mean gene said:

Belt drive

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If this is about the AMC 3 spring clutch question I asked, I was trying to get an answer from acotrel about his clutch setup. He's probably too busy grinding an old axe though.

I know you are using a belt drive. I sort of pay attention.

Schwany said:

So you are running the AMC 3 spring clutch dry? How do the roller bearings in the clutch roller cage get lubricated?

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The roller bearings in the clutch are lubricated the same way are they were in bikes made before 1920. It is never a problem. Like your wheel bearings. The outer part of the clutch only spins in relarion to the inner when you pull the lever. It is like using full throttle - it does not happen as often as you might thibk.

acotrel said:

The roller bearings in the clutch are lubricated the same way are they were in bikes made before 1920. It is never a problem. Like your wheel bearings. The outer part of the clutch only spins in relarion to the inner when you pull the lever. It is like using full throttle - it does not happen as often as you might thibk.

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Good to know it can work in a setup like yours where you can easily service the clutch and chain.

I've never used bearing grease on those caged bearings in the AMC clutch with the stock P11 wet primary. I figured the grease would end up making a mess and mix with the oil in that hot environment. High viscosity oil is not good with that (my) AMC clutch. I don't believe any of the documentation I own mentions greasing those bearings in an AMC clutch. Admittedly I don't own that much documentation and could be missing the document that does mention using grease. Or I skimmed over any mention of it.

Thanks for the info.