A new member with a first time Norton project

mcns · Dec 15, 2009

Nice bike, do yourself a favour take that oiltank off and through it in the garbage(unless you find a anal restorer that wants everthing original) it will overheat if ridin this machine like a motorcycle is what you plan on doing.

Choose a fastback oiltank(the most oil, also gets more wind) or at least the later 850 style. better for the posers for looks.

good luck

RennieK · Dec 15, 2009

byrdman76 said:

Nice work, I didn't recognize those foot peg parts either. Have you posted in the "man castles" thread yet? Your work area looks cool.

byrdman76 · Dec 16, 2009

mcns said:
Nice bike, do yourself a favour take that oiltank off and through it in the garbage(unless you find a anal restorer that wants everthing original) it will overheat if ridin this machine like a motorcycle is what you plan on doing.

Choose a fastback oiltank(the most oil, also gets more wind) or at least the later 850 style. better for the posers for looks.

good luck

I have to admit that it will be going back in for the time being - I just had it powdercoated so I intend on using it for now. More importantly funds are tight, so I can not go out and buy another one just yet. I also plan on running an oil pressure guage and I would like to find a clean way to monitor the oil temp as well. I want this bike to be a rider but I want it to be as original as I see fit. If the oil tank causes over heating issues it will get replaced. I really do not want to run an oil cooler either simply due to looks, so a different oil tank sounds like a good option.

Maybe a nice aluminum oil tank to match a nice aluminum gas tank - a man can dream right!

Thanks for the advise and I will definitely keep an eye out for a problem.

byrdman76 · Dec 16, 2009

Thanks Rennie - I'll have to take a few photos of the garage and post them up. Some of the ones already posted are unbelievable...

byrdman76 · Dec 17, 2009

Not much progress the past few nights - pressed in some swing arm bushings and shimmed the crank. Drilled and tapped in a breather in the gear box. I used a nipple so that I can run a vacuum style line to it and vent it under the bike. Made a few tools to assemble the motor with that I will get some pictures of while in use.

A new member with a first time Norton project

byrdman76 · Jan 11, 2010

Long over due update...

built the wheels and brakes, and installed the front end over the holidays. Finally received enough parts to start assembling the motor. So far so good, let just hope it runs and doesn't shake my teeth out.

Probably going to have to replace the brake stay since the hole has been oblonged.

grandpaul · Jan 11, 2010

NICE WORK!

Extra-clean and sparkly.

byrdman76 · Jan 11, 2010

Thanks Paul - Lets just hope it runs!

But hey if it doesn't I can always put in the living room as a good conversation piece

.

RennieK · Jan 11, 2010

Nice work, nice shop and nice photos!

Keep it in the living room till it warms up outside.

Hortons Norton · Jan 12, 2010

Mine lived in an extra bedroom til it was almost finished, LOL everyone asked how are you going to get it out of there? I just had to remove the handlebars and roll it out. Did make a few people laugh.

MarshalNorton · Jan 12, 2010

WOW,
that would pass a Marine Corps inspection.
Nice assembly pics. 8)
I learn more and more each time one pic at a time.
Thanks for sharing.
I enjoy learning.
Marshal

byrdman76 · Jan 13, 2010

Thanks for the compliments guys - I was able to get the timing cover and head on last night. My only concern is the valve geometry on the exhaust side. I can easily adjust them to spec, but the lash adjuster sure is close to the edge of the stem when the valve is closed on both sides. Is this pretty typical? I'll have to find out what the stem height tolerances are for the 750's. Especially since the seats where cut when the new guides where installed. the motor turns over very nice, but I just want to make sure that this is not something that needs to be addressed.

I have heard of lash caps, does anyone have any photos of these for a Norton? Do they simply increase the OD of the stem? Or are they only used to address hardening issues if you remove some material from the stem to correct the valve geometry.

I'll get some pics up tonight when I get home.

littlefield · Jan 13, 2010

Check to make sure your valve train is set up as well as can be. With my Megacycle 560NR cam the exhaust rocker rotates through about 20 degrees so you want the angle between the valve stem and adjuster screw to be 10 degrees when the valve is all the way closed and 10 degrees the other way when it all the way open. Rather than say 8 and 12. You may have to adjust the pushrod length to get this right. If the angle is too great, particularly when the valve is closed, the adjuster will move closer to the edge of the valve. If the problem is caused by the valve seat being cut a lash cap would make it worse unless you trimmed the valve length. My understanding is that the lash caps provide a harder, sacrificial surface for the rocker to beat on.

byrdman76 · Jan 13, 2010

littlefield said:
Check to make sure your valve train is set up as well as can be. With my Megacycle 560NR cam the exhaust rocker rotates through about 20 degrees so you want the angle between the valve stem and adjuster screw to be 10 degrees when the valve is all the way closed and 10 degrees the other way when it all the way open. Rather than say 8 and 12. You may have to adjust the pushrod length to get this right. If the angle is too great, particularly when the valve is closed, the adjuster will move closer to the edge of the valve. If the problem is caused by the valve seat being cut a lash cap would make it worse unless you trimmed the valve length. My understanding is that the lash caps provide a harder, sacrificial surface for the rocker to beat on.

Thanks Littlefield I will check the angles - what is a good measurement for a stock cam. My thoughts on the valve caps were exactly that - reduce the valve stem height to compensate for the newly cut seats. However in doing so the hardness will be compromised so installing the valve caps should correct this issue.

I would really like to find a maximum stem height spec - does anyone have this info by chance? I have searched but have come up empty.

FastFred · Jan 13, 2010

Beautiful rebuild well done. Read Norvil's website about running the cams in when you first start it.

lynxnsu · Jan 13, 2010

Nice and clean build
one suggestion ;that pic of your crank with the conrods standing in erection I hope you had to balance them for they should not be easy to stand up like that.otherwise this could mean your big-ends are oval or something along these lines....

byrdman76 · Jan 13, 2010

lynxnsu said:
Nice and clean build
one suggestion ;that pic of your crank with the conrods standing in erection I hope you had to balance them for they should not be easy to stand up like that.otherwise this could mean your big-ends are oval or something along these lines....

Thanks guys - yes I had to balance them for the photos. However, the Problend assembly lube is a bit sticky so that it stays in place until the bike is started. Kind of like the redline assembly lube used on the cams and valve train. I just prefer to use different assembly products in certain areas depending on the application. Sometimes simple oil does the job. So far they all seem to work pretty well.

Memphis Motor Works did an outstanding job on the crank. The tolerance between the rods and the crank was almost as good as sex - almost :lol: After reading a few post regarding having issues with this area, I was a bit worried how mine would turn out. Needless to say it was all for nothing.

Thanks for the tip about running in the cam on the Norvil site - I'll have to check that out. My biggest fear is having running issues when I first crank it up. Therefore I have decided to track down a Boyer ignition and dual output Dyna coil before I ever attempt to kick it over for the first time. I'll cross my fingers and hope for the best on the rest.

JimC · Jan 13, 2010

From all appearances of your rebuild I doubt you need to cross your fingers. Well done, I say.

norbsa48503 · Jan 13, 2010

Well since the timing cover is on I am hoping you lapped in the oil pump. Also checked in on the OPR valve for a scratch check.
The rear brake plate looks stock but these are known to work better when drilled out a tiny bit also see Norvil's tech notes. New S.S. OPR valves were on sale at SRM in England last month. After all this better get the right amount of oil in there and rear brakes are good on gravel.

byrdman76 · Jan 13, 2010

norbsa48503 said:
Well since the timing cover is on I am hoping you lapped in the oil pump. Also checked in on the OPR valve for a scratch check.
The rear brake plate looks stock but these are known to work better when drilled out a tiny bit also see Norvil's tech notes. New S.S. OPR valves were on sale at SRM in England last month. After all this better get the right amount of oil in there and rear brakes are good on gravel.

Hey Norsba - The oil pump was lapped in, plates resurfaced, and primed. The PRV is currently not installed - waiting on a piston, some shims, and a new spring to come in. I'm also planning on running an oil pressure gauge and more than likely will have to run the goodridge rocker feed lines in order to graft in. I just cant stand not knowing if I'm getting sufficient oil up to the head or not.

Since the rear drum has been powder coated it will remain as is for now. I'll have a look at the Norvil site to inquire about the rear brake mod. May be something to look into down the road.

Thanks for the post and keep the suggestions coming man!

A new member with a first time Norton project

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