My 1971 Norton Commando

Matt Spencer · Feb 11, 2014

Its if you get it between two fingertips , and pull up & down . Or get your index finger - at the end - on the chain run . And hold a ruler across the center of the run .

If you push down with your fingertip , and look what the measurement says , the put fingertip under - push up , and read . And the diferance is 10 mm to the same point , or 3/8" in real money , its right .

Bar Tight is when it wont move . SLACK is when it falls a inch after youve picked it up and let go . :shock: Generally youd check across the clutch too , for link wear . Lift a link at rear of drum -
if that lifts more than 3 or 4 links total , the chains stretched or the links are worn .

Any chain needs a little slack , just a little free wriggle on the free run . Dont you ride along looking at the chap beside yous drive chain makeing funny patterns feeding off the rear sprocket ?

Dennis C · Feb 15, 2014

so the head and cylinders are mounted along with the Amal's. Still need to get the electronic ignition to start it up

Need to do the head steady and torque the head.

Polishing those arias that are being worked on as I go. I think the next section I will work on will be the rear end.

Just checking how it is shaping up, Will always have some of the original patina, but I am happy with how it is going.

Dennis

Dennis C · Feb 20, 2014

Trying to replace/remove the double row bearing in the brake drum.

So what am I missing, I have removed the brake drum , I have removed the dished washer, circlip, felt washer and thin washer. I have installed the nut on the drive side of the drum and tried to drive the bearing out the other side with a soft mallet.

The bearing has just moved past the flange for the circlip and stoped. Do not want to hit it any harder.

Dennis

DogT · Feb 20, 2014

As I remember I had to follow the instructions in the workshop manual to get the bearings out, but yours may be different than my early non cush drive. There is a long spacer inside the hub that you need to deal with and take notice when it comes out, which way it comes out. It's not symmetrical.

Matt Spencer · Feb 20, 2014

Hereis a Polish aria , http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4l672HYgzow you could copy that . :wink: :?

Dennis C · Mar 2, 2014

Some more disassembly ready to start ordering parts

I am going to do the Heinz Kegler mod with the clamps to stiffen the swing arm/spindle

I have not decided if I should paint the fender or leave it and the frame as is. I will show some wear age and original patina. I am currently inclined to leave it as is.

Dennis

olChris · Mar 3, 2014

the rear mudgaurd will polish up well cos it is stainless.. A professional polish by the "chrome plater" or somebody with the right compounds and buffs would be good..

IMO if you paint one guard the you need to paint the other, or polish 1 professionally the you need to polish both...

Dennis C · Mar 4, 2014

You are right, both front and rear will receive the same treatment

Dennis

gortnipper · Mar 4, 2014

Polish them. A painted rear mudguard would just look wrong.

batrider · Mar 4, 2014

I don't think the rear guards were stainless in '71 and '72 at least. Be gentle with the chrome. I like the original look - not painted.

The swingarm spindle looks really good. Mine was so corroded and rusted that pitted was not even the right word for it. When they are bad you know it.

Dennis C · Mar 14, 2014

While I had it down and doing new bushings and spindles I decided to add the Heinz Kegler mod to the swing arm

Too late now but if I did it again I would rotate the collars up for easier access when wheel is on and shocks are attached

And now to get some heat shrink to cover some rotted wire covers

Dennis

Dennis C · Mar 26, 2014

The rear end is back together chain still to install

Rebuilt swing arm with new spindle, bushings and clamps
New shocks
new brakes and bearings
New cush drive pads
Polished chrome

I ran into a hassle with the rear brake drum and Hub, My Clymer manual said to install the bearing spacer with the long end towards the brake drum,, help form a member had me turn it around so the long end is towards the speedometer drive. THANKS

Dennis

Dennis C · Mar 26, 2014

Moving to the front, started with the clutch and brake consoles with the Lucas switches Just ordered a rebuild kit for all the plastic switches and buttons. started with polishing the aluminum parts

before polishing

after

Dennis

Dennis C · Apr 18, 2014

Installed a new 530 chain, it rubs the chain guard. The original chain is .738 wide at the rivet, the new chain is .872 wide at the rivet. I purchased at Old Britts, Is this the standard width of new 530 chain or does anybody make a chain the same width as the original

Dennis

pete.v · Apr 18, 2014

Dennis C said:
Installed a new 530 chain, it rubs the chain guard. The original chain is .738 wide at the rivet, the new chain is .872 wide at the rivet. I purchased at Old Britts, Is this the standard width of new 530 chain or does anybody make a chain the same width as the original

Dennis

The standard chain was a "Standard" duty chain. I am sure you now have a heavy duty chain.

Dennis C · Apr 19, 2014

I am sure you are correct, I guess the solution is another chain, Thanks
Dennis

pete.v · Apr 19, 2014

Dennis C said:
I am sure you are correct, I guess the solution is another chain, Thanks
Dennis

Those measurement acquaint to about 1/16" on the side. I might think the solution would be to shove/tweak the chain guard by hand to the side that interferes and ride on. Stick a screw drive between the chain and the guard and pry it to the point where it no longer rubs.
Add a washer or spacer at the mounting point to spread the guard. The screw and bolt at the middle of the guard can have a bolt with a nyloc nut as to tighten only to the point needed.
No big whoop.

B+Bogus · Apr 19, 2014

pete.v said:
Dennis C said:

I am sure you are correct, I guess the solution is another chain, Thanks
Dennis

Click to expand...

Those measurement acquaint to about 1/16" on the side. I might think the solution would be to shove/tweak the chain guard by hand to the side that interferes and ride on. Stick a screw drive between the chain and the guard and pry it to the point where it no longer rubs.
Add a washer or spacer at the mounting point to spread the guard. The screw and bolt at the middle of the guard can have a bolt with a nyloc nut as to tighten only to the point needed.
No big whoop.

+1

Can't remember not having to do this.

Dennis C · Apr 27, 2014

Fork tubes and mufflers are on the way, I already have the fork rebuild kit

I do not really like rattle can paint but I think I will do the tank and side covers with it first. The tank is fiberglass and I have used the Caswell epoxy treatment. I think I will test with the rattle can before spending the bucks to do a pro job.

Dennis

Dennis C · Apr 27, 2014

Working on the electrical wireing, This could be over my head and will take some time.

I have the tail lights working, Is the brake light the bright light or is the tail light the bright one?

Head light does come on dimmer switch not working, flasher button does work, will clean and check all the plugs.

Dennis

My 1971 Norton Commando

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