My 1971 Norton Commando

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And the ugly, pulled the transmission cover to polish and the inside is ugly, and not what I wanted to see, rust on some of the parts and I am afraid I need to take it all the way apart to see what is still hidden.

My 1971 Norton Commando


My 1971 Norton Commando


Got the cylinder and head on, I'll post pictures later

Dennis
 
DEFINITELY pull the tranny apart and carefully inspect and measure everything.

Look real close at the layshaft bearing, too.
 
While you're at it, ya might consider modifying the trans cover for proper seals at the kickstart and shifter holes. A breather from Comnoz wouldn't hurt either, if possible.

Good luck
 
Snorton74 said:
While you're at it, ya might consider modifying the trans cover for proper seals at the kickstart and shifter holes. A breather from Comnoz wouldn't hurt either, if possible.

Good luck


first I have to figure out how things work in there, re read Clymer and Old Brits a couple more times
 
I feel a kinship. I bought my '71 while in the Navy and had it shipped to the US for me to uncrate & assemble. I still have it. So far, you're doing a great restore of the engine. There's so many things to improve, like the gearbox seals and vernier iso's, but get everything back together and ride it first and then think about those when they need attention. You must have an early '71 by where the engine numbers are stamped. The sidestand is always missing , the center stand will need to be replaced with a later 850 type when the center brace cracks. The headsteady needs to be inspected for cracks too. A later boxed 850 type would be a quick fix, then there's a separate thread about the aftermarket choices for head steadys. When I think back about what you got in '71 for about $1430 outside of the US it really was a superbike. It's a great handling package and with a 19 tooth gearbox sprocket a real thrill to twist the right hand grip. Take your time and fix all the obvious issues before the first joyous kick to life. It'll be a big grin first ride.
 
You lucked out on mere cosmetic level rust which can get so bad the pawl spring falls apart and the fasteners heads about dissolved. No oil gets to those things so might consider thick cosmoline grease or spray paint em like me, usually wheel clear coat but any color will do and only you will know.
 
I bought mine in '72 used, but I've never even given a thought about selling it. Boy it was fun when it started in '10 I think it was.

That oil line is Nylon 11, I have about 5' of it, but if you can find it locally as the air brake line, it'll be plenty cheap. Lots of people don't like it, but I haven't had any trouble and it's easy enough to work with, just don't heat it with anything more than boiling water if even that. Oil it, hold it with some sort of clamp and whack the spigot in with a rubber/hide mallet.

Dave
69S
 
Dennis C said:
I bought this bike new in 1971 while stationed in Germany, last rode it in 1984 when it needed work and parts. no one near to do the work and I could not find the parts. It has sat for the last 30 years and I could never bring my self to sell it.

Just curious. Where where you stationed in Germany? I was at Hahn AB on the Mosel River '75-'76, Air Force. Bought my first Commando while stationed at March AFB, Riverside, Ca in '73.
 
Oh yes, are you ever in for a smile when she comes back to life!! Very similar to you, my 1969/70 Commando S did not run for 30 years (except it was not frozen), and I could never ever sell it. After a few parts and polish, when I kicked it over again to start it last October, I was in my 20s again. Smile every time I look at in my garage. Waiting for Spring -- if it ever comes!

Its a little late to comment on the black cylinder paint, but there are three factors in heat transfer -- thermal conduction resistance, convection, and radiation. As long as it is not too thick, the black paint (especially flat black) will radiate heat more effectively than aluminum color, and this offsets some of the insulation effect of the paint. The conduction heat transfer that you loose by the paint insulation effect is, like any insulation, worse as the thickness increases, so thinner is better (i.e. thin coat from a rattlecan). I have not run numbers on paint films, but I would guess that the heat transfer resistance of the convective coefficient to air is much greater than the thermal conduction resistance of the paint (with any reasonable thickness). So I suspect you have to have a pretty thick paint film before there's an issue. For that matter, think of dirt bikes that are caked with dirt and still running OK. You'll be fine.

(If anybody is actually interested, I could run some numbers to compare typical paint film thickness with loss of heat transfer. Usually, that's the sort of thing I do for work.)
 
Thank goodness if not racing to max heat dump seems a non issue even if powder coated. The weapons coatings are plentiful and DIY too. I tired that and worked fine but its rather thin and deep in fins hard to get it on well so tends to rust through if road a lot in all weather. I gave up and just rattle can pretty now and then. Best wishes on hearing seeing smelling and feeling what a Commando does for ya.
 
" (If anybody is actually interested, I could run some numbers to compare typical paint film thickness with loss of heat transfer. Usually, that's the sort of thing I do for work.) "

Whats happened to this Vitrious Baked Enamel . To Expensive . :P
 
I will venture to say that the airflow over the fins (convection) is orders and orders of magnitude larger than any radiant heat transfer, no matter the color. I'm saying that as long as you're moving, it won't matter much how thick the paint (within reason) or color.

I painted mine high temp silver.
 
Yee-haw!!! They may be frustrating at times, but that makes the rewards all the more memorable. I took the easy road; I was finally able to get my dad's '74 back in 2013, and since it had spent the last quarter of a century in a storage unit, I only had seals and the like to tend to. BTW, R/C cola works great for loosening stuck cylinders, as it has the highest phosphoric acid content of all the colas (no foolin').
Snorton74 said:
While you're at it, ya might consider modifying the trans cover for proper seals at the kickstart and shifter holes. A breather from Comnoz wouldn't hurt either, if possible.

Good luck
Not meant as a contradiction, but assuming the shafts aren't loose in their bores, you might try the quad seal route first. They drop right into the existing o-ring grooves without any machine work required. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NORTON-LIGH...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item337fc4def0

If you're interested, this is my short road to recovery. http://www.accessnorton.com/she-back-t16865.html
Have fun, and keep us posted!
Nathan
 
illf8ed said:
Dennis C said:
I bought this bike new in 1971 while stationed in Germany, last rode it in 1984 when it needed work and parts. no one near to do the work and I could not find the parts. It has sat for the last 30 years and I could never bring my self to sell it.

Just curious. Where where you stationed in Germany? I was at Hahn AB on the Mosel River '75-'76, Air Force. Bought my first Commando while stationed at March AFB, Riverside, Ca in '73.


I was stationed at Hanau with the 559th engineer battalion 1968 through oct of 1971 The mark was nearly 4 mark to 1$

Dennis
 
I thought I was going to have to toss the headers and mufflers, the mufflers were rusted out so they will have to go, the headers were badly blued and discolored. not sure they could be brought back.

some serious polishing and they look like they will be fine, shows their age and patina but way better than I thought was possible

My 1971 Norton Commando


My 1971 Norton Commando


My 1971 Norton Commando


My 1971 Norton Commando


Dennis
 
The manual call's for 3/8 " movement in the primary chain. Is that free movement or is that with slight tension on the chain ?

Thanks
Dennis
 
that would be if you put your finger under the top middle run of the chain and lifted upward about /38 inch
 
1up3down said:
that would be if you put your finger under the top middle run of the chain and lifted upward about /38 inch
sl

I understand that , but is that 3/8 free travel( slack chain) or under slight tension?

Dennis
 
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