Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod

grandpaul said:
Vapor blasting, and hydro blasting are two totally different things.

Vapor blasting is another name for steam cleaning; true "vapor" blasting, no media.
Click to expand...

According to Wiki, it's the opposite. "Vapourmatting" uses water and media {sand, glass or other) And hydroblasting uses only liquid.

In any case, my question was based on sand-vs.-no sand technique. The cases on the SS clone were sandblasted years ago and show no oxidation. I was told at the time I did it that that was due to the sand peening the pores of the alloy.
 
I had wondered about waxing, or silicone, and maybe using Por15's Glisten as comnoz recommends it.

comnoz said:
gortnipper said:
Jim - I recently read a post of yours from 5-6 yrs ago bout Glisten from Por 15. Did you use it on your bike and if so, is it holding up well and would you use again?
Click to expand...

Yes it has done very well. It has stayed solid on the polished aluminum and even magnesium although the polished magnesium that I coated turned dark under the Glisten after several years.

I wish I had used it on my fairing and tank since the PPG clearcoat that is on it is suffering from a lot of rock chips.

I used Glisten on my front fender and it shows no pits.
Click to expand...


But, reading this the other day am not so sure anymore - http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/atta ... f.1847359/
 
We had a steam cleaning blaster (in the Navy) that would produce what looked like polished finish when you stripped metal parts with it. Amazing machine. The nozzle could slice your fingers off, and the boiler temp was set at 250F. THAT, my friends, is VAPOR blasting!
 
grandpaul said:
We had a steam cleaning blaster (in the Navy) that would produce what looked like polished finish when you stripped metal parts with it. Amazing machine. The nozzle could slice your fingers off, and the boiler temp was set at 250F. THAT, my friends, is VAPOR blasting!
Click to expand...

Makes sense to me.

There are a lot of ads and commercials now that tout hydroblasting machines that can remove the paint from a car body in a couple of hours. Unheated water alone could not possibly do that job. There would have to be some media included, sand, soda, glass or even nutshells that do the cutting.
 
And after another half hours work and an excellent job by the polisher.

Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod
 
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Put new sealed.bearings in the hubs tonight after the kids went to bed. Front hub went fine.

I have some questions about the rear. I used the lock ring to drive the bearing in per the book. I don't recall from disassembly if the ring is supposed to sit this proud off the hub?

Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod


When I put the spacer in to install the other bearing, I noticed it was off center. I can center it by slight force but I would assume this would stress the bearing and cause a premature failure?


The spacer also sits proud of the bottom of the bearing hole, is this normal?

Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod


You can see the edge of the bearing at the bottom of the hole at the wide side, so maybe I should tap that side down and leave a gap there under the lock ring?

Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod


These are SKF 6203 2RS.
 
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The bearing not only looks wrong it probably is wrong , I insert bearing using heat, (boiling hot water on casting, bearing put in freezer overnight) and use wheel spindle to line them up. Wheel bearings are clamped together with suitable spacers –there should be NO gaps when spindle is tighten up.
 
Bernhard said:
The bearing not only looks wrong it probably is wrong , I insert bearing using heat, (boiling hot water on casting, bearing put in freezer overnight) and use wheel spindle to line them up. Wheel bearings are clamped together with suitable spacers –there should be NO gaps when spindle is tighten up.
Click to expand...

I used heat and frozen bearings as well. The last picture is from the drum side without the spacer, and was wondering about seeing the outer race when I had set the bearing per the manual using the ring.

I can get the spacer to line up fine as is, but there would be some torsion on the bearing that way.
 
Pulled the locking ring, heated it up with the heat gun, hit the high side with a large punch a couple of times and it straightened out nicely. Frozen drive side bearing and spacer dropped right in without a fuss, and a light tap to snug it down. All good. Wheels get laced day after tomorrow, so hopefully tomorrow night will get some good progress on the forks.
 
After. I need to get busy. Not enough time in my day with the job, wife and 3 yo twins...

Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod
Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod
 
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You need to re-think things...

3 year old twins should keep the wife very busy and vice versa, thus cancelling each other out a far as you're concerned. You have no business interfering in such matters.

That just leaves your day job, which as we all know is when you spend quality time thinking and planning your next steps in the workshop.

Simple...
 
Well, I have one of those two sorted. The easy "work" one... LOL

Just spent $$$ on a horse truck for the wife. Will add lashing points for the car seats for the twins...so Phase II is in motion. :lol:
 
At least I got something done and didn't feel like I was grinding my gears tonight.

The Welch plugs I got were slightly too big for the swingarm, so I had to dish them a bit further to get them in. Like the problematic kickstart bush, they were from a large (un)popular NZ distributer in unmarked bags. Andover parts? Who knows?

This is way tighter now than when it came apart.

Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod
 
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Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod
I had some Excel shouldered alloy WM3 wheels built:

19” Front wheel:
With hub, bearings and 8/9 gauge SS spokes weighs 11.11 lbs.
Add rim strips, tube and a new Avon AM26 100/90 weighs 23.4 lbs
Add CNW Brembo disc weighs 26.7 lbs

18” Rear wheel:
With hub, bearings and 8/10 gauge SS spokes weighs 12.8 lbs.
Add rim strips, tube and a new Avon AM26 4.00 weighs 27.7 lbs

I weighed these using a hand held luggage scale.

Sorry for the distorted pic - wide angle camera phone and the rear tire is behind the front - they are very nearly the same rolling diameter.
 
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We're running neck and neck now, I just need my wheels to arrive and it'll be a close shave...
 

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