Muttster: A long, slow '74 resto-mod

gortnipper

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Digging thru my tool box I came across a Proto J-shaped gapping tool I forgot I had. The smallest wire .035 barely fit in and I was just able of lever the washer off.
 

gortnipper

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Beehive tail light

I love the look of the beehive tail light, and am considering for my muttster special am considering using Matt's CNW beehive taillight bracket and the '72 TAIL LAMP FAIRING.

But, I see the 72 rear fender is different part number than the 74.

Will these parts bolt up to the 74 fender ok, or will there need to be adaptations made to it?
 

Fullauto

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Re: Beehive tail light

gortnipper said:
I love the look of the beehive tail light, and am considering for my muttster special am considering using Matt's CNW beehive taillight bracket and the '72 TAIL LAMP FAIRING.

But, I see the 72 rear fender is different part number than the 74.

Will these parts bolt up to the 74 fender ok, or will there need to be adaptations made to it?

I've got that setup on my 73 850. Looks and works well with an LED tail/brake light setup.
 

gortnipper

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As promised, things are moving, but slowly.

Thanks to Danno, I have a replacement left z plate!

I took all of the frame parts to the car wash stall this weekend (not Father's Day in NZ), and pressure washed them and managed to get the ~1/4" of crud off of the inner primary and cradle. Still needs some touch up with a solvent rag before it goes to get blasted and two packed.

I got stymied in taking down my wheels. Got all the spokes off ok, with a long soak of penetrating oil on the nipples. But, I couldnt get the bearing lock rings off and didnt want to mangle them So I ordered this part 06-6956 from a local supplier last week, which is the one I need to get at the bearings:

19_063965.jpg


I received this part - which carried the same p/n in their stock list, but which is only for the calliper and not the wheel bearing covers, whuch us why it was cheap. Had to send it back at my expense. :cry:

tbs-5459-01-norton-brake-caliper-plug-tool__15387.1411504170.451.416.jpg


http://thebonnevilleshop.com/norton-com ... -tbs-5459/

After I get the right tool and tear the hubs down, then next is tearing down the tranny and then getting all the shiney bits off to the polisher.
 
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I was watching a Youtube vid on overhauling Ohlins forks and the guy in the vid was using an adjustable pin spanner he got from Staples (!) online store.
found this one on Fleabay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FACOM-SPANNER-W ... 1392663633?
A little pricey, but it could work for many different applications.

Further research led to one from Wal-Mart.com for $69.81 with free shipping.
 

gortnipper

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Yeah, we have those pin face wrenches here too, and they are pricey. and they only take either square or round pins - not both! Cheaper to just buy the norton tool.
 

gortnipper

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I pulled the bearings from my wheel hubs today, and also the one from the rear drum.

I had tried to pull that one a while ago but the kids were asleep and I couldnt pound on it too much. So today I heated it up and gave the stub some good thwacks with my 2# dead blow mallet.Nothing, again.

bearing.jpg


So, I heated it some more and tried using my bearing puller. Still nothing, But I also noticed it was moving back and forth ~1mm with each slide of the hammer weight. So, I looked a bit closer and I noticed that the retaining groove where the circlip goes was fouling the bearing and keeping it in. I could move the bearing back and forth by hand, but it wouldn't come out.


The whole reason I was going to pull it was to replace the orginal bearings, and install a madass single piece axle. So, I wanted it out.

I also noticed a fracture in the retaining lip, in the red box.

break.jpg


So, I used my dremel on the lip until i had removed enough for the bearing to come out.

Is this thing toast? or can i massage that break and will it be ok?

I have no idea how that lip could have become larger than when the original bearings were installed. I have never been in there.

Any ideas?
 
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gortnipper

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gortnipper said:
I pulled the bearings from my wheel hubs today, and also the one from the rear drum.

I had tried to pull that one a while ago but the kids were asleep and I couldnt pound on it too much. So today I heated it up and gave the stub some good thwacks with my 2# dead blow mallet.Nothing, again.


So, I heated it some more and tried using my bearing puller. Still nothing, But I also noticed it was moving back and forth ~1mm with each slide of the hammer weight. So, I looked a bit closer and I noticed that the retaining groove where the circlip goes was fouling the bearing and keeping it in. I could move the bearing back and forth by hand, but it wouldn't come out.


The whole reason I was going to pull it was to replace the orginal bearings, and install a madass single piece axle. So, I wanted it out.

I also noticed a fracture in the retaining lip, in the red box.



So, I used my dremel on the lip until i had removed enough for the bearing to come out.

Is this thing toast? or can i massage that break and will it be ok?

I have no idea how that lip could have become larger than when the original bearings were installed. I have never been in there.

Any ideas?

Sorted here - https://www.accessnorton.com/threads/rear-drum-problem.21362/
 
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gortnipper

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Oil junction block

I took the oil junction block off yesterday - which I have never had off before. Low and behold, I see that the gastket had rotated to block off a large portion of the line. :evil:

Oil_Junction.jpg


i see there is only supposed to be one dowel there, so I guess I will use some copper coat to keep the gasket in place this time.
 
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gortnipper

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Not much action this month, as have been working a lot and on holiday last week in Bali. :mrgreen:

The motor is off with Plazz looking at getting the WC 312a with Jim’s 4” radius lifters in, the crank balanced, and bumping the compression a bit. I am due to catch up with him in a couple of days after he strips the bottom end.

cam.jpg


I had the old DomiRacer chrome muffler and foot peg stay plates, which were cheap and blistering badly. I didn’t like the new AN stock matte chrome ones as I had become rather attached to the chromy look. So, I had the lot re-chromed (since the minimum was enough to do both sets, will likely sell the second)!

plates.jpg


Not perfectly show finish, but nice and thick. Happy.

Off to work in UK next week and Dehli the week after, so wont get much done. Though I may have to get some Maney bits whilst I am in the UK…
 
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APRRSV

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Hi Gort,
I'm thinking of going the same route as you regarding the 312A cam and radiused lifters. Also a little flowing to the head.

What is the item in the bottom right of the first picture? Looks like a modified sump plug?

Ed
 

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Wow... Looking good!

The cam looks new, is that right? I thought webcam only did re-profiling of old cams for Nortons?

When and where are you in England Gortnipper?

@ Ed, the 'item' is a reed valve breather that screws into the sump plug hole. They work fabulously and just screw in! Should be compulsory...
 

gortnipper

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Jim Comstock (Comnoz on the forum) makes and supplies these breathers. He also supplied me with the new cam (he is a WC dealer) and lifters. He is also doing my head.

Nigel - I will be in London for a week starting Monday. Mostly working in the city, staying in Shoreditch. Come and pick me up for a ride on Saturday, since that will be my free day! I will pay for the pub stops! :p

Edit: oops...Comnoz... duh.
 
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