layshaft bearing

Heat alone is enough to remove the roller bearing once the inner race is out? Or do you also need to use a puller for leverage behind the rollers, if there is enough space to get behind them? If no puller (slide hammer) how else do you pull it out?

For my ball bearing, it took heat AND a slide hammer attached to the layshaft.

For the roller outer I have used a torch to heat the case on the bike and then got the outer out with gloved hands preceded if required by a thump from the otherside with a hammer on a block of wood.

FAG bearings are manufactured in Portugal / India / China etc FAG have plants all over the globe and production runs especially metric bearings can come from either factory
so spotting a counterfit will be very difficult ? different country of origin does not necasarily mean its counterfit

if you purchase direct from an official FAG distributor / importer you will be getting the real macoy especially in the US , restrictions and import tarrifs on bearings are in place

distributors must be accountable to US customs to where products ( bearings ) originated from

elefantrider said:

With the roller bearing, how do you pull the bearing out for inspection without removing the gearbox, or destroying the bearing (taking the rollers out)?

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The roller bearing should last for many thousands of miles (unlike the original metal cage 6203 ball bearing) and I don't think it is absolutely necessary to remove the bearing to get an idea of its condition.

elefantrider said:

Can you use heat and get a puller behind the rollers? Will heat and a puller damage the rollers and plastic cage?

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As it's not a particularly expensive item then in my opinion, if there's the slightest doubt about its condition just fit a new bearing, then you don't have to worry about damaging the old one when you remove it.

Elephant, I don't think you understand that the rollers come out with the layshaft. The only thing left behind in the case is the outer race. Should last a lifetime.
Jaydee

jaydee75 said:

Elephant, I don't think you understand that the rollers come out with the layshaft. The only thing left behind in the case is the outer race.

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It's an NJ bearing, so only the inner race comes out with the layshaft.

I have 23 gearboxes and am working on 4 at the moment. 3 of mine and 1 for customer
Will be giving tech session on saturday so I'm in prep and study mode anyway...

http://atlanticgreen.com/images/6203fag.jpg
from left: FAG
pos1- 2 Germany cages are sheetmetal with 2 tabs crimped over other plaincage... top bearing is best visual.
pos2- Portugal gold colored steel uses same method as German bearing
pos3- Korea 2RS (rubber seal) uses staked pin same as NTN below
pos4- German 11 roller polymide cage, rollers stay with outer U race

http://atlanticgreen.com/images/6203skf.jpg
from left: SKF
pos1-2 Great Britian staked pin joins cages
pos2-2 Sweden staked pin joins cages
pos3- 1 Argentina staked pin joins cages 1 sheild/1 removed
pos4- Germany 11 roller(stay with outer U race) polymide cage

http://atlanticgreen.com/images/6203ntn.jpg
left NTN-2 Japan- cage has pressed nipples on one side of cage and is spot welded with other side
right BCA bearing corporations of America (service outlet for NTN bearings) plastic separators pressed in this is a shielded bearing origin unk

dynodave said:

pos2- Portugal gold colored steel

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Are you sure it isn't brass? :?

L.A.B. said:

dynodave said:

pos2- Portugal gold colored steel

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Are you sure it isn't brass? :?

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I'll check it to make sure. It will involve removing the little crimps and puling it out. I'll see if it's magnetic...maybe I can tell just from the force required to uncrimp the tabs.
It is very unlikely I would have ever used it except in a sectioned away gearbox demo unit.

dynodave said:

L.A.B. said:

dynodave said:

pos2- Portugal gold colored steel

Click to expand...

Are you sure it isn't brass? :?

Click to expand...

I'll check it to make sure. It will involve removing the little crimps and puling it out. I'll see if it's magnetic...maybe I can tell just from the force required to uncrimp the tabs.

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Scrape it with a craft knife (Stanley knife).

Destroyed the fag bearing cage, nonmagnetic and obviously is brass and not anodized steel.
Do not use these bearings.