Laverda Man Finally Admits to Going Commando

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marknorton said:
What I really could do with is a complete quantified list of every nut bolt and washer on the frame. If I cannot get this then I guess that will be my winter mini project over Christmas. I would have thought there is one out there though, just cant find it anywhere. Has anyone any ideas?

I don't think there is a definitive list? You should find a copy of the 850 Mk2/2A 065988 parts supplement useful, but as it contains no diagrams it needs to be used in conjunction with the 1973 parts book.

Laverda Man Finally Admits to Going Commando

Laverda Man Finally Admits to Going Commando
 
Stainlessbits lists all the parts and numbers, but it doesn't give a list of a specific machine and their specific nuts/bolts/washers in total. I have a spreadsheet of my 69, but it has been heavily modified later to add nylocks, so I can't even believe in it and I'm sure it would be way off for an 850.

Actually there are not that many parts, but when you start putting one together, that's another issue, I revisited many nuts and bolts as I assembled.

Dave
69S
 
I realize Old Britts is on the wrong continent for you, but it wouldn't surprise me if they didn't have a list. Their web site certainly has the information to compile one.

http://www.oldbritts.com

Russ

D'OH! I see after posting that you have discovered Old Britts, but regardless you might contact them about a list. They have kits for specific covers, etc. Spend some time in the "restore or build your own Commando" section.
 
Well I got 45kg of Norton back on this trip...
Lagos Airport was a nightmare. On leaving Nigeria there is a fingertip manual search through checked in baggage ( which does give confidence in the security and I am all for it) Bags are opened and everything checked by security.
Once they saw my bags of components, they called the customs Officer over. She wanted 1000N in cash ( about 4UKP) as a leaving 'Customs' levy- and by her demeanour I understood that she clearly was not going to give me a receipt for this money...hey ho thats Nigeria for you.
I took Grandpauls advice a little to literally and not only stuffed a few bolts in my walk on computer cabin baggage but also the front brake disc and hub. The X-Ray Check-in Security were not amused and refused me entry to the plane, though they admitted there was nothing in the rules that said I could not take a Norton disc brake and hub through as hand baggage.
They then got me escorted to the Public area of the terminal again, where I called my driver to come pick it up.. and then go through the whole immigration exit all over again.
So moral of story is dont try to waltz through Lagos Airport Security with a Norton front wheel hub assembly in your hand luggage. Security do not like it.
Now I have in the UK most bits for the bike excluding frame, engine and gearbox. I am bringing the frame over on my next trip, and engine later in spring.

Yesterday I took the following components to the chrome finishers in Bristol. The metal finishers came highly recommended and to Chrome, zinc plate or otherwise polish the following components came to an eye watering 548 Pounds ( roughly 800 US).

Laverda Man Finally Admits to Going Commando

(Yes I know.... If wife sees what I just put on her floor, I would be needing alternative accomodation on this trip)

Due to Christmas this professional finishing work will not be completed until mid February, so I will have to wait out on this one, and will post before and after pictures when all is done..

I have taken DogT advice and will use Caswells Chrome kit to do the smaller items in my downtime when I go back to Africa. This will be a great way to pass the time. So I expect to be going back and forth with bolts and other small plateable items until i get a definitive list of the correct bolts, washers and nuts for the bike.

Programme of work.
I have decided to commence with powder coat the brackets and fork yokes. Then will concentrate on rebuilding the front end including the front wheel.
This should take me to February, finances permitting. Today I purchased new fork seals mudguard and handlebars from Andover Norton. They seemed quite happy to offer advice for my queries. I was quite impressed.
Over Christmas I will concentrate on degreasing and cleaning all components, and commencing rust stripping. DogT has given me an incredible amount of detailed advice ( and shopping list) so I am sure that with all this I will be well occupied over the next few weeks cleaning up all the rusty small items.

Have a great Christmas everyone, and its lovely to be home :)
 
That sounds like the mob in bristol I sent my Victor stuff too, i got them to send the items back unplated once I got the quote and used a guy who goes to Stafford. He did an excellent job for a 1/3 of the price
 
Having worked in Nigeria in the early 80s, I hope it has gotten better there. I worked in the north Jos, Kaduna, Kano, Maidugari etc. And that was supposed to be the nicer part compared to Lagos.

This may be an unpopular opinion, but I think you should pass on that bike. You will end up spending far more on it than a very nice restored model can be bought for. Trust me, been there, done that. Call me a killjoy.
 
The cost and eventual value isn't important to everyone. Now something that takes up all one's
spare cash and spare time. So as to keep one from troublesome endevers. Now that's priceless. :mrgreen:
 
Shush up, don't deflect him form a dream project that can bring another Commando back to roadworthy. Seasoned Nortoneer's know a $5-6000 good runner good looker is a bargain basement deal to get there and a big loss in money/time to the seller/builder.
 
Well, I must agree with hobot. Finish the project. There is GREAT satifaction in stripping a Norton completely, and then rebuilding it yourself. Then ... sit back in your lawn chair, sipping coffee (or tea) and admiring one beautiful motorcycle. Much of the fun is not the destination (finished machine) but the journey (the bike build) to get there. Cheers, and Merry Christamas from Ohio !!!
 
montelatici said:
. . . . This may be an unpopular opinion, but I think you should pass on that bike. You will end up spending far more on it than a very nice restored model can be bought for. Trust me, been there, done that. Call me a killjoy.

Yes you are right montelaci, and I thought long and hard about this before starting. Infact it was a thread : commando-restoration-advice-value-and-machine-t5810-60.html

I intend to restore it slowly over a period of years as an enjoyable project where it is not for financial gain.
Once finished the bike will not be sold, so profit is not the issue, as I will pass it on to my son. I am just going to plough into this project as a hobby. The point that I am making is if I followed a football team around UK I could easily spend up to 100 pounds/week on travel/ ground tickets/team shirts/ food/ drinks etc. The end result is a few memories. little else.
So if I dont do this and indulge my bike, is there any difference?
I hope I am understood here. every hobby costs. To value the end result less than what is spent is not realistic. After all people spend thousands on fishing tackle only to return the fish back in the water. I am viewing this project along these lines,and enjoying every minute.
 
Well what a Christmas... I arrived back in Wales to -10 degrees and the water pipes froze in the garden on Christmas day. So I spent almost all my R and R defrosting pipes and getting a plumber to fix the burst that happened during the thaw.. We had no water at home for 6 days and were stuck at home the whole time as the roads were blocked with snow, and I live way out in the country.
It was getting so bad that at one stage I was seriously contemplating melting snow for water but luckily it did not get to that as our water tank had enough supply that heavily rationed it was just about running out when the thaw happened.
The pipe is about a foot underground and I have been advised to get a builder to lower it to 2 feet underground so it will not be affected by frost again.

Any expert advise from Canadian members on depth of water pipes in the garden gratefully accepted

So all in all ( and I never believed I would hear myself saying this) I am glad to be back to the heat and crazyness of Lagos.. till I start back at work tomorrow and I am sure I will not be saying this by lunchtime.

During the last few days since I have been back I have been busying myself with stripping the forks which were completely rusted up. I knew this was going to be a difficult job as they were 'solid' from when I bought the bike and rusted up badly....

Laverda Man Finally Admits to Going Commando


After a lot of pushing and pulling with myself and my driver we finally managed to get the sliders off. I am afraid we managed to badly score the internal bushes in the process:

Laverda Man Finally Admits to Going Commando


Some advice here needed please:

  • Are the bushes all one piece with the seal or is the seal removeable? I ask this as I require the fork seal as well.
    Is it best to purchase new bushes or are these bushes repairable? If so how do I start by getting them repaired?
Thoughts please as usual appreciated and (a belated) happy new year Guys
 
marknorton said:
Are the bushes all one piece with the seal or is the seal removeable? I ask this as I require the fork seal as well.

I'm not quite sure why you think the bushes and seals are "one piece"?

The fork bushes seals and other internal parts are available and not very expensive, and only the sliders would really be worth repairing if they are damaged.

http://www.oldbritts.com/1973_g17.html = Upper Bush [32], Paper washer [31], Seal [30], Screw collar [11].
http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... &Plate=017
 
Thanks LAB for your thoughts.

Mine are totally fused together on both sides so was wondering about whether it was a different type when I checked the Manual:

Laverda Man Finally Admits to Going Commando


Willl just get a new set as your advice.
 
:shock: Wow -- you were not kidding! Those really are fused. You can get a complete set of bushings and seals from any reputable supplier. If you need new tubes, you could go with a nice set courtesy of "Forking by Frank" (http://www.frankmain.qpg.com/) -- the best, in my opinion -- or you could buy a reproduction set from Andover Norton. Provided the lower sliders are in good shape, you will be just fine.

Love the photos. Keep them coming!
 
Heat and crazyness are addictive , did you soak the entire Nigerian find in a tub of WD 40 between trips ? Here in Canada we dig 2 1/2 feet down minimum ,lining the trench in crushed gravel before filling back in ,also drop in slightly larger pipe to increase water pressure to house. Any constriction drops pressure to wife needing beauty shower. Off now to satisfy heat and crazyness needs in India -Nepal , shifting over to Royal Enfields, driving on left with full Travel insurance and International Driver's Permit. Nigerian King's fortune still unclaimed ? Enjoy.
 
We have tried and tried to press out the swing arm spindle, and the whole swing arm assembly is as immoveable as it was when i started despite soaking in WD40 for months and the judicious application of heat.... BTW I did take out the spindle pin central bolt.
I found a machine shop here in Nigeria with a press and they made up a suitable drift to push the swing arm pin out. The pin just will not budge, and the Machinist does not want to damage the whole assembly by putting it on a larger press as he fears the central tube will get deformed

Laverda Man Finally Admits to Going Commando


I think if you click the picture above you will see a short video of what we tried to do.

Has anyone any experience of drilling the swing arm pin out? That seems to be the next option. If so....
What diameter bit is required?
Will oversized bushes be required and can these be bought off the shelf?
Was a frustrating 4 hours yesterday trying to get this pin out, still am on my way home with the frame next week, and will spend my leave visiting powder coaters and spray shops. Hopefully my chrome bits will be completed by the restorers in Bristol.
BTW What should I expect to pay to Powder Coat a frame? I have had a few quotes of around 1000 UK Pounds to spray the frame and ancillarry components like the swing arm.
Seems like an eyewatering price to me.
Thx Guys
 
It may be cheaper at this point to simply buy another swingarm and transmission cradle.
 
Powdercoating a frame in glasgow area cost approx £100, could go to £130 once you add in the swingarm and various brackets and gearbox cradle. Less for cash.

This mob are recommended on the B50 org site and are in Southhampton, £70 for a B50 frame

http://www.trestanfinishers.com/
 
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