Laverda Man Finally Admits to Going Commando
- Thread starter marknorton
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Well I have started building the front end of the bike and when I took the original forks off in Lagos, I measured the stanchions and I got 595mm or thereabouts.
I left the originals for scrapping in Lagos, but I have just checked this length against the new forks I have purchased, and these are 590mm.
Does anyone have a correct dimension for the fork stanchion lengths, or can anyone advise whether the 590mm long stanchions are acceptable to fit. I do not want to go back to the seller, until I have gotten my facts right on this one.
Thanks Guys
I left the originals for scrapping in Lagos, but I have just checked this length against the new forks I have purchased, and these are 590mm.
Does anyone have a correct dimension for the fork stanchion lengths, or can anyone advise whether the 590mm long stanchions are acceptable to fit. I do not want to go back to the seller, until I have gotten my facts right on this one.
Thanks Guys
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Hi Guys.
Pls can you tell me what the finishes are for the components A-E I have identified below? I am preparing items for powder coating and I am not sure which components were painted originally black, left natural, or polished.
Pls can you tell me what the finishes are for the components A-E I have identified below? I am preparing items for powder coating and I am not sure which components were painted originally black, left natural, or polished.
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Has anyone any experience of how to shift a seized cylinder head bolt? pmitch very kindly loaned me the correct 1/4 Whitworth tool which I have brought back to Nigeria to assist in removing the head. This is perfect in every way, but the bolt just will not budge, despite being soaked in WD40 for 4 weeks now.
The bolt is absolutely solid, and all other bolts have been loosened off.
Has anyone any ideas, including alternative ideas on how I can get the head off? I have till Friday to resolve as I am travelling after that, and would like to bring part of the engine back to UK with me.
As always thanks guys
Mark
The bolt is absolutely solid, and all other bolts have been loosened off.
Has anyone any ideas, including alternative ideas on how I can get the head off? I have till Friday to resolve as I am travelling after that, and would like to bring part of the engine back to UK with me.
As always thanks guys
Mark
Mark
If all else has truly failed I'd locate a high-quality 13mm six-sided socket, preferably half-inch drive or the metric equivalent--heat the socket to 150C or so and pound it on to the head of the bolt until it's all the way down--with a six-inch extension and a two-foot breaker bar try tightening the bolt first before loosening it. If it doesn't loosen the bolt or twist off the head you can try center-punching the bolt head and drilling ever-larger concentric holes until the bolt head is finally drilled off.
In my experience PB Blaster, made in Cleveland, works far better than WD40 or Liquid Wrench in penetrating "closed" threads. Best of luck--you really don't want to hurt that RH10 head.
Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
If all else has truly failed I'd locate a high-quality 13mm six-sided socket, preferably half-inch drive or the metric equivalent--heat the socket to 150C or so and pound it on to the head of the bolt until it's all the way down--with a six-inch extension and a two-foot breaker bar try tightening the bolt first before loosening it. If it doesn't loosen the bolt or twist off the head you can try center-punching the bolt head and drilling ever-larger concentric holes until the bolt head is finally drilled off.
In my experience PB Blaster, made in Cleveland, works far better than WD40 or Liquid Wrench in penetrating "closed" threads. Best of luck--you really don't want to hurt that RH10 head.
Tim Kraakevik
kraakevik@voyager.net
Right. WD40 isn't the best at this. A 50/50 mix of Ethylene glycol (Engine coolant) and acetone penetrate best.
Any heat at all you can get around the bolt may help break it loose. And finally if all else fails. Drill that sucker
and twist the bolt head off. Extracting the stud afterwards shouldn't present too much difficulty.
I'd offer $500 for that head if you weren't already using it. :mrgreen:
Any heat at all you can get around the bolt may help break it loose. And finally if all else fails. Drill that sucker
and twist the bolt head off. Extracting the stud afterwards shouldn't present too much difficulty.
I'd offer $500 for that head if you weren't already using it. :mrgreen:
+++ on the PB Blaster for a good penetrating oil. I once had sim bolts frozen & rusty on a old Volvo head and nothing worked until I tried the PB Blaster stuff. After that all the bolts came out. I don't think WD 40 has the ability to "pull" itself into the threaded areas like Blaster stuff says it does on a molecular level.
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I use DOT 3 brake fluid then heat if the fluid doesn't un-seize it.
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Get it hot and whack it with a mallet or hammer. Let it cool and do it again. If this don't work, drill the head off it like posted earlier.
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Or... weld a bigger nut on the bolt head. One that you have a good socket for. The heat alone should break it loose.
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Get the 13 mm socket and heat-bam it on, Then take to shop with air impact wrench, then heat the snot of of it, like oil smoke-flame hot, then melt candle wax over it, then air impact it out. IF this fails take to shop that can just drill the head off the bolt. Do not attempt with the sheet metal toy, you will both ruin the toy and round off the head points. There are a few other ways beyond these.
Even after all the fasteners removed expect a good frustrating fight to part head from barrel, but if barrel off cases then can get to underside of head. Razor blades hammered in the seam might work just don't expect fin to level it off.
ATF and diesel or kerosine works way better than most the off the shelf thread penatrators, WD40 being near bottom of list for anything but a nice cleaner for nice surfaces or chase some water out of switches or terminals, for a week or less, if lucky.
Even after all the fasteners removed expect a good frustrating fight to part head from barrel, but if barrel off cases then can get to underside of head. Razor blades hammered in the seam might work just don't expect fin to level it off.
ATF and diesel or kerosine works way better than most the off the shelf thread penatrators, WD40 being near bottom of list for anything but a nice cleaner for nice surfaces or chase some water out of switches or terminals, for a week or less, if lucky.
batrider
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Also try putting some of the other bolts back in and torque down. Right now all the force is on that one skinny stud.
My bike broke this stud off flush all on its own and I had to have a machine shop get it out of the cylinder barrel. They drilled a perfectly centered hole and kept enlarging it til it was almost to the threads. Then he was able to unscrew it without any damage. He had a few choice words for it...
My bike broke this stud off flush all on its own and I had to have a machine shop get it out of the cylinder barrel. They drilled a perfectly centered hole and kept enlarging it til it was almost to the threads. Then he was able to unscrew it without any damage. He had a few choice words for it...
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- Jan 23, 2011
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It makes old faded black primer look good too! Otherwise, its about worthless.
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