Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain......
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
I was using the clymer workshop book for wiring diagram ( general export from DU 66246) which showed OPS but across the page under UK ,mine is a US bike ......ignition light clearly shown and I didn't read it.
I can't find my triumph w/m dont know what I've done with it.
My number is DU 7odd
Marked general export section, I was using this unfortunately .
Also the ammeter on inspection has been glued previously so no big deal on that one it's just popped off ,as the old repair has eventually failed under a bit of stress.
I was using the clymer workshop book for wiring diagram ( general export from DU 66246) which showed OPS but across the page under UK ,mine is a US bike ......ignition light clearly shown and I didn't read it.
I can't find my triumph w/m dont know what I've done with it.
My number is DU 7odd
Marked general export section, I was using this unfortunately .
Also the ammeter on inspection has been glued previously so no big deal on that one it's just popped off ,as the old repair has eventually failed under a bit of stress.
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
As long as you understand you could be forcing a 27 TPI tapered thread (which gradually increases in diameter to 0.405") into a 0.375", 26 TPI parallel threaded hole!
If so, and it does begin to leak then the usual instinct would be to tighten the switch some more, maybe resulting in an even bigger leak if/when the cover cracks.
It has been the subject of much contention and debate elsewhere whether 60-2133 (D2133) is the correct number for the tapered switch but which we needn't go into here.
As far as I'm aware, the oil pressure switch wasn't fitted until the '69 year of any model (so from calendar late '68) and I don't believe there has ever been any disagreement about that.
The "DU66246 Home" and "DU66246 Export" diagrams in my copy of the WSM6 DU66246 manual both show an ignition warning light (green).
Nevertheless, if the blanking plug thread (and assuming also the timing cover thread) is 3/8" - 26 then the cover is not the type intended for an oil pressure switch.
auldblue said:
As long as you understand you could be forcing a 27 TPI tapered thread (which gradually increases in diameter to 0.405") into a 0.375", 26 TPI parallel threaded hole!
If so, and it does begin to leak then the usual instinct would be to tighten the switch some more, maybe resulting in an even bigger leak if/when the cover cracks.
auldblue said:
It has been the subject of much contention and debate elsewhere whether 60-2133 (D2133) is the correct number for the tapered switch but which we needn't go into here.
auldblue said:
As far as I'm aware, the oil pressure switch wasn't fitted until the '69 year of any model (so from calendar late '68) and I don't believe there has ever been any disagreement about that.
The "DU66246 Home" and "DU66246 Export" diagrams in my copy of the WSM6 DU66246 manual both show an ignition warning light (green).
Nevertheless, if the blanking plug thread (and assuming also the timing cover thread) is 3/8" - 26 then the cover is not the type intended for an oil pressure switch.
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
The logical course of action is to remove the OPS now and see if the plug will fit and give an oil tight seal, but I already know the threads on the cover are damaged to what extent I'm not sure . Until taking on board this new ( to me) information, I had presumed that the blanking plug threads were wrong (I've seen it on Commandos) but I will wrap in a bit of PTFE ( not to much) and give it a bash.
L.A.B. said:
The logical course of action is to remove the OPS now and see if the plug will fit and give an oil tight seal, but I already know the threads on the cover are damaged to what extent I'm not sure . Until taking on board this new ( to me) information, I had presumed that the blanking plug threads were wrong (I've seen it on Commandos) but I will wrap in a bit of PTFE ( not to much) and give it a bash.
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
My fathers words to me when I was a lad are ringing in my ears " don't leave the ignition on you'll damage the coil" and I left the bikes ignition on just before meltdown and when I switched it off I felt the coils for heat ,left stone cold , right pretty hot . When I fixed the wires that were melted and put it back with a new ignition switch the left coil was blowing the fuse ,swopped the wires over and still the DS coil . So your initial assessment of coils was bang on Les. Just need a twelve volt coil and a bit of sleeping and tape and back to the engine, unless I have missed something which is entirely possible at the rate I'm going.
At least I am enjoying working on the bike, for me at least it's a bit of fun trying to get it sorted rather than pay someone to do it for you.
My fathers words to me when I was a lad are ringing in my ears " don't leave the ignition on you'll damage the coil" and I left the bikes ignition on just before meltdown and when I switched it off I felt the coils for heat ,left stone cold , right pretty hot . When I fixed the wires that were melted and put it back with a new ignition switch the left coil was blowing the fuse ,swopped the wires over and still the DS coil . So your initial assessment of coils was bang on Les. Just need a twelve volt coil and a bit of sleeping and tape and back to the engine, unless I have missed something which is entirely possible at the rate I'm going.
At least I am enjoying working on the bike, for me at least it's a bit of fun trying to get it sorted rather than pay someone to do it for you.
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
That's the opposite of what I'd expect.
For the TS coil to get hot, the TS points must have been closed, in which case I would've expected the 'hot' coil to be the one to have suffered any damage.
As the DS coil was "stone cold", the DS points must have been open so there would have been no current passing through it, which is probably why that coil remained completely cold.
auldblue said:
That's the opposite of what I'd expect.
For the TS coil to get hot, the TS points must have been closed, in which case I would've expected the 'hot' coil to be the one to have suffered any damage.
As the DS coil was "stone cold", the DS points must have been open so there would have been no current passing through it, which is probably why that coil remained completely cold.
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
I did take the coil wires off and at the time it did not alter the situation however I don't remember or can't be sure whether the connections I had remover had been replaced or were loose.but there was a bit of a whiff from the shell wires and one the White / brown was exposing copper also one off the White wires was melted a bit.
I tested the resistance of each coil 4.5 TS , 4.2 DS so there must be a test if the coil is earthing inside or the fact the the numbers are close is it something else?
L.A.B. said:
I did take the coil wires off and at the time it did not alter the situation however I don't remember or can't be sure whether the connections I had remover had been replaced or were loose.but there was a bit of a whiff from the shell wires and one the White / brown was exposing copper also one off the White wires was melted a bit.
I tested the resistance of each coil 4.5 TS , 4.2 DS so there must be a test if the coil is earthing inside or the fact the the numbers are close is it something else?
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
For the coil to cause the short, there would have to be continuity between the windings and the coil casing, so an Ohms test between the coil terminals and the casing should all show an 'infinity' reading.
auldblue said:
For the coil to cause the short, there would have to be continuity between the windings and the coil casing, so an Ohms test between the coil terminals and the casing should all show an 'infinity' reading.
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
Test on the TS read 8800, DS 1 . So the 12v TS coil has had it , both 12 volt however might as well change both for 6 volt and convert to Pazon EI and fit a regulator rectifier to redux the hassle factor. I have a Pazon never used fitted to a project commando that has been robbed for parts already so I presume that will be suitable only thing required is the correct rotor stud?
When I took the plug leads off there was no metal connectors on them and barley 2mm of corroded wire at the coils. I also renewed the ignition switch as one terminal was sheared in half. In conclusion when the wiring seemed to be working OK with the coil disconected I lost power again, fuse was not blown but was flickering when I replaced the fuse so I'm thinking that the fuse holder or connections to it are also faulty so that will be replaced with glass type also. Happy days , thanks again Les.
I still cannot believe the electrical issues that I have had in the last nine months or so, 69 Norton reg/rec X 2 , 71 Norton blowing fuse after getting knocked over, 70 triumph dipper switch etc, trident indicators, and now this. Mind you it's not quite as daunting to deal with now .
Jg
L.A.B. said:
Test on the TS read 8800, DS 1 . So the 12v TS coil has had it , both 12 volt however might as well change both for 6 volt and convert to Pazon EI and fit a regulator rectifier to redux the hassle factor. I have a Pazon never used fitted to a project commando that has been robbed for parts already so I presume that will be suitable only thing required is the correct rotor stud?
When I took the plug leads off there was no metal connectors on them and barley 2mm of corroded wire at the coils. I also renewed the ignition switch as one terminal was sheared in half. In conclusion when the wiring seemed to be working OK with the coil disconected I lost power again, fuse was not blown but was flickering when I replaced the fuse so I'm thinking that the fuse holder or connections to it are also faulty so that will be replaced with glass type also. Happy days , thanks again Les.
I still cannot believe the electrical issues that I have had in the last nine months or so, 69 Norton reg/rec X 2 , 71 Norton blowing fuse after getting knocked over, 70 triumph dipper switch etc, trident indicators, and now this. Mind you it's not quite as daunting to deal with now .
Jg
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
After assembly of the primary everything seemed OK however when I pulled the case off the clutch adjuster has been rubbing on the end of the inspection cap . I wonder if the seal I have replaced has not seated properly, or after a quick google it's been suggested that maybe the main shaft nut has backed of in the gearbox. Any input would be much appreciated.
Jg
After assembly of the primary everything seemed OK however when I pulled the case off the clutch adjuster has been rubbing on the end of the inspection cap . I wonder if the seal I have replaced has not seated properly, or after a quick google it's been suggested that maybe the main shaft nut has backed of in the gearbox. Any input would be much appreciated.
Jg
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
The adjuster nut rubbing was just me , ballsed up the cable adjustment!
The Screw thread on the end of the cam is 1/4 BSF , or if it is not then I have Buggered that up also.
New pump fitted.coils and HT leads.
The adjuster nut rubbing was just me , ballsed up the cable adjustment!
The Screw thread on the end of the cam is 1/4 BSF , or if it is not then I have Buggered that up also.
New pump fitted.coils and HT leads.
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
My intention was to use this for a few runs in the summer , but did not check compression which was stupid and on closer inspection she needs a fair bit of work ,hope the bottom end is ok, but probably not.
My intention was to use this for a few runs in the summer , but did not check compression which was stupid and on closer inspection she needs a fair bit of work ,hope the bottom end is ok, but probably not.
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
I am putting new tappet block in my Morgo barrels but they have a slightly different shape that the originals can anyone see a problem with this.
Not the best images, will get better ones.
The head has an issue or two inlet guide t/s came out with valve, d/s exhaust guide half out.
This bikes improving my Triumph t120 love day by day.......good times
I am putting new tappet block in my Morgo barrels but they have a slightly different shape that the originals can anyone see a problem with this.
Not the best images, will get better ones.
The head has an issue or two inlet guide t/s came out with valve, d/s exhaust guide half out.
This bikes improving my Triumph t120 love day by day.......good times
Fast Eddie
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
Angle grinder...
Angle grinder...
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Re: Last train to Glasgow Central..........Last Traaaain....
I have tried to find info on the net but it is patchy. My plan is to bolt the head on and then remove the stubs. Will heating up the bolts soften the braze enough to tap out the studs with a twist and not deform the surface to seal the carbs? Do I need flux on it to avoid the braze sticking?
I have tried to find info on the net but it is patchy. My plan is to bolt the head on and then remove the stubs. Will heating up the bolts soften the braze enough to tap out the studs with a twist and not deform the surface to seal the carbs? Do I need flux on it to avoid the braze sticking?
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