Just Bought My First Norton

Hobot · Jul 4, 2014

If not for traffic regulations electric signals are just extra decoration like the Mods mirrors and extra lights except those really do get ya noticed and help see better ahead and behind. Got to sample driving by my own hand and taxi and friends and strangers in a handful of countries to come to my blunt conclusion. The worse place or best place depending on your attitude was France as majority of drivers were always Racing Everywhere, so if timid - just got blocked off, crowded out of space or about run off rural hwy being passed at ridiculous speeds - until one learned their road raging rules then interpreted by American dirt-oval stock car will-skill to win, in tight-crowded city streets- major motor ways and of course the lovely TT like country side. UK wasn't too far behind but they generally just tried to get in front to then slow or upset rest of traffic rather than just get on with it. Right of way in rest of the world [other than N. America] goes by size and loudness and practiced giving way in nick of time routinely as those that don't get eliminated. Lack of turn signals is so so far down list of risks when on a cycle its crazy making to me listening to any other logic that isn't aimed at quitting the hobby sport pastime.

I have fixed my SuVee's signals at least a dozen times from being knocked off by animals, ground giving way and getting backed over parked in the dark to give up on em and just stick out like a sore thumb by weaving a bit and using hands. I was rather relieved when my 2nd Combat legally came w/o any thank goodness.

Dkt26 · Jul 4, 2014

hobot said:
Really turn signals are just another thing to complicate road life and wiring hassles and faults and if ya need signals to make sure traffic knows your intentions then you are being too invisible anyway. Its hard to beat the factory stuff for ongoing headaches of conduction that's innate with their construction so after market tiddy-robust signals is a good idea - keeping polarity in mind.

I find traffic here in aus tend to ignore turn signals. I ditched mine and reverted to hand signaling.
Surprisingly, it seems more effective as it is quite uncommon to fellow traffic uses who generally demonstrate more caution when the arm goes out. It's like the pause for a moment.
I don't use traditional British hand signaling as I find it less effective.
Hand out, check, look them in the eye, merge.
Simples

David B · Jul 4, 2014

Hi guys,

Thanks for looking in! I appreciate the tips. Here are the two pics I took on the day I bought the bike. Took it for a quick spin today, only about 20 miles or so but what a great ride!

David B · Jul 4, 2014

As you can see, it has the low pipes and not the "S" pipes. It doesn't really come through in the pics but the center stand has been a bit hacked. The lever arm that comes off the left side has been cut down. I suspect it interfered with the pipe and was lopped off. The kick stand lets the bike lean at an alarming angle so I wonder if it has been bent/swapped. I know I'm missing the grab bar along the rear of the seat. Any other critiques? Please fire away! I'm still learning about Commandos and all input is welcome. Thanks again for all the help guys!

David B

David B · Jul 4, 2014

L.A.B. said:
David B said:

I bought a 1970 with a serial number of 139402. At present there are some bits on it to make it look like an S model - namely the halo ring around the head light and the "S" label on the side covers

Click to expand...

The halo was also fitted to the '70 Roadsters, not just the 'S' model.

Good to know!!

David B · Jul 4, 2014

Chris T said:
Hi - I have a 1970 roadster with serial number exactly 40 before yours - June 1970; the halo is original; there were no indicators and it almost certain had a fibreglass tank. The original seat was the S type - in fact I understand that the only difference between the S and the first roadster was the pipes. Someone may correct me but my understanding is that the a model predates the roadster; so yours might be either; if the side panels are original it may well have been an S.

Very cool! This one is June of 1970 as well. Just imagine if you could go back in time to June of 1970 and tell the guys building the bikes that, 44 years from now, two people on the other side of the world will chat about two of the bikes that roll off the line this month. Oh how times have changed!

I'll check with the seller to see if the side panels are original.

auldblue · Jul 5, 2014

David B said:
As you can see, it has the low pipes and not the "S" pipes. It doesn't really come through in the pics but the center stand has been a bit hacked. The lever arm that comes off the left side has been cut down. I suspect it interfered with the pipe and was lopped off. The kick stand lets the bike lean at an alarming angle so I wonder if it has been bent/swapped. I know I'm missing the grab bar along the rear of the seat. Any other critiques? Please fire away! I'm still learning about Commandos and all input is welcome. Thanks again for all the help guys!

What do you mean about the center stand hacked , the pipes don't look low to me? Side stand swapped no offence but are you taking the proverbial?

Cos if u r!

We don't need no stinking badges!

worntorn · Jul 5, 2014

Nasty mean expressions, but I'm sorry, they just aren't scary. Those skinny legs couldn't kick over a Bantam! :mrgreen:

72Combat · Jul 5, 2014

Ah Motorhead...Hammersmith Odeon Dec 1989, jeans black leather jacket, deafened....gambling is for fools but that's the way I like it baby.....they do a nice Xmas show.

L.A.B. · Jul 5, 2014

David B said:
I know I'm missing the grab bar along the rear of the seat.

No, grab rails weren't fitted until 1973.
http://www.classicbike.biz/Norton/Broch ... Norton.pdf

Steel fuel tank, and front fender(mudguard) are 850 MkIII type, and the brake and clutch lever assemblies, air filters, stainless braided rocker feed pipe are not original items. It also appears to have what is known as an 'anti-drain' or 'anti wet-sump' valve in the oil feed line, these have been the subject of some controversy, as they can potentially, wreck the engine.

There were no standard black 'S' models, therefore the (wrongly positioned) Commando 750 'S' decals on black side covers are not likely to be original.

Although not wishing to dampen your enthusiasm, I seriously suggest you enter the term 'layshaft bearing' into the forum search (same goes for any of our other new members reading this) as the metal cage of the original gearbox layshaft D/S ball bearing is known to break up with little or no warning, the result of that happening whilst riding could potentially be lethal if not just frightening (and expensive if it wrecks the gearbox). So that bearing really needs to be checked at the earliest available opportunity and replaced with either the Andover Norton NJ203 roller bearing or the special 'Mick Hemmings' FAG 6203 TB phenolic cage ball bearing, if it still has the standard 6203 metal cage ball bearing.

boz · Jul 5, 2014

The key switch in the side panel on the left side is correct. The goofy short side stand is also correct for a 70 but please don't try and kick start it on the side stand. Put it up on the center stand. The tail light housing is wrong. On the "S" it is silver not black. It is hard to tell from your photos but the rear wheel should be the kind where the hub bolts onto the brake and drive side. The cover should have three holes covered by black rubber plugs. If not then the rear wheel is a latter unit. More in line with the previous comment about the front fender. The seat looks correct with the quilting running across the seat, the strap and the silver band around the bottom.

L.A.B. · Jul 5, 2014

boz said:
but please don't try and kick start it on the side stand. Put it up on the center stand.

Or better still, sitting astride with both stands folded.

motorson · Jul 5, 2014

I posted a thread a couple of years ago called "blinker mount for a beehive tail light"

The part is carved out of billet with an angle grinder and a die grinder. Just held it in my hand most of the time.
Dan.

phillyskip · Jul 5, 2014

David welcome to the forum. These old Brit Bike need lots of TLC to keep running in top form. I'd suggest that if you're mechanically inclined, obtain the shop manual and parts book for your bike.I'd also buy the Norton Shop Tools for working on the bike. With the help of the folks here you'll be able to keep that Norton running as it should.

From my experience it's best to learn how to work on your bike inside and out as unexpected "stuff" will happen out on the road. As a lifetime Triumph guy I remember taking my bike to a local shop and getting it back in worse shape than when I took it in. This is when I decided to "do it myself". When I got my "basket case Norton" a few years ago I was prepared for the challenges that were ahead.

Best of luck with your Norton......Skip

DogT · Jul 5, 2014

Boz hit everything head on. There was a black tail light fairing, but it was for the yellow model. I've heard there's a BSA sidestand that's a bit longer and will fit. If you feel like hacking the prop stand it's easily extended, personally I carry around a block of wood to put it on.

Other thing you may want to look into is the pin for the prop stand. It's held on by 2 small clips and if it falls off..... I put a grade 8 bolt in it and a nylock nut. You'll have to put the nut on the outside. Or you can drill and put a grub or set screw into the pin. Get a safety spring for the rear brake. You may find the oil tank breather pukes out oil into the air filter which ends up all over the lower part of the bike. I installed a catch bottle on mine, there may be other methods but you'd have to block the original tank breather and install another one. Some don't seem to have this problem, but they probably ride every day to keep the oil in the tank. The oil tank is the central mounted one, unlike the later models where it's on the side. Be careful if you have a oil feed valve, I've put a switch on mine so I can't start it unless the valve is on. Looks like the seat cover has been replaced, the originals had over 20 ridges.

If it won't idle correctly, the slides are worn, get a new set of Amals or have the slides sleeved. Price is about the same whether new or rebuild and sleeve.

Dave
69S

auldblue · Jul 5, 2014

worntorn said:
Nasty mean expressions, but I'm sorry, they just aren't scary. Those skinny legs couldn't kick over a Bantam! :mrgreen:

L.A.B. said:
boz said:

but please don't try and kick start it on the side stand. Put it up on the center stand.

Click to expand...

Or better still, sitting astride with both stands folded.

Nice one DogT,have you cut that field yet?

Kickstart demo.

DogT · Jul 5, 2014

auldblue said:
Nice one DogT,have you cut that field yet?

No, it's been too hot. I may get back at it today. At least I got a good ride in on the 4th, it was so nice, felt like coastal Calif. I can't believe how much easier it is to start the bike with the 20W50 instead of the SAE50. Runs quieter too. I might be able to start it without the stand now.

David B · Jul 5, 2014

phillyskip said:
David welcome to the forum. These old Brit Bike need lots of TLC to keep running in top form. I'd suggest that if you're mechanically inclined, obtain the shop manual and parts book for your bike.I'd also buy the Norton Shop Tools for working on the bike. With the help of the folks here you'll be able to keep that Norton running as it should.

From my experience it's best to learn how to work on your bike inside and out as unexpected "stuff" will happen out on the road. As a lifetime Triumph guy I remember taking my bike to a local shop and getting it back in worse shape than when I took it in. This is when I decided to "do it myself". When I got my "basket case Norton" a few years ago I was prepared for the challenges that were ahead.

Best of luck with your Norton......Skip

Yep, already picked up the shop manual & parts book. I'll start picking up the tools as well. I enjoy working with my hands and old bikes are a great outlet for me. I'm fortunate in that I have a knowledgeable & trustworthy shop not that far from me that only works on old British bikes. He's a great resource and was very helpful when I bought the bike. As my knowledge of Nortons was (& obviously still is) very limited he went over one he had in his shop with me and gave me a checklist of things to check before I bought the bike.

Thanks again to all! When i got into old bikes a number of years ago, I quicly discovered that one of the best parts of old motorcyles is the people you meet - and it's not just on Hondas!

David B · Jul 5, 2014

boz said:
The key switch in the side panel on the left side is correct. The goofy short side stand is also correct for a 70 but please don't try and kick start it on the side stand. Put it up on the center stand. The tail light housing is wrong. On the "S" it is silver not black. It is hard to tell from your photos but the rear wheel should be the kind where the hub bolts onto the brake and drive side. The cover should have three holes covered by black rubber plugs. If not then the rear wheel is a latter unit. More in line with the previous comment about the front fender. The seat looks correct with the quilting running across the seat, the strap and the silver band around the bottom.

Exactly the kind of info I was looking for! Thanks Boz

David B · Jul 5, 2014

Lots of great info here guys. Thanks a million Tdog Motorson, L.A.B., Boz & the rest! Yeah, I was aware of the layshaft issue. It's the first thing to be addressed. Wasn't aware of the controversy around the check valve though.

Just Bought My First Norton

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