My first Norton! Oil lines routed wrong?

No, each carb has a screw-on steel adapter for the rubber boots. There are three possible installations between the adapters
Got it. Thanks. Option 2 is the way I put them on. Looks like the way it "should" be. The boots are pushed forward on the carbs more than I would like though.
 
Got it. Thanks. Option 2 is the way I put them on. Looks like the way it "should" be. The boots are pushed forward on the carbs more than I would like though.
I like Option 1 because is a WAY easier and the air flow is unaffected. But I think option 2 is the "correct" way.
 
Got the engine running today. Verified oil return to the oil tank. Still some things to do before I can do a test ride.

Oil tank has a pinhole leak at the weld for the mount on the bottom of the tank.

Rear fender needs fitting. It hits the oil return pipe and the banjo at the back of the oil tank. It also hits the horn and chain guard. I'm going to need to do some trimming and try to dimple the tank where it hits things.

I'm going to have to take the gas tank back off and check wires for the headlight and correct binding throttle cables.
 
Oil tank has a pinhole leak at the weld for the mount on the bottom of the tank.
Common problem that will result eventually in catastrophic oil loss. I send every oil tank for every build to cNw for the fix for this. I really don't like the thought of all the oil pouring out a speed and getting all over the rear tire: which happens first - the crash or the engine disintegration!

See part way down here: https://coloradonortonworks.net/cnw-specialized-modifications
 
Common problem that will result eventually in catastrophic oil loss. I send every oil tank for every build to cNw for the fix for this. I really don't like the thought of all the oil pouring out a speed and getting all over the rear tire: which happens first - the crash or the engine disintegration!

See part way down here: https://coloradonortonworks.net/cnw-specialized-modifications
Thanks for the info. I checked out the link. They mention the bottom mount is cut off and a plate is brazed over the area. Does that mean the tank no longer mounts at the bottom?
 
Thanks for the info. I checked out the link. They mention the bottom mount is cut off and a plate is brazed over the area. Does that mean the tank no longer mounts at the bottom?
Correct.

The problem with that original mount is that MANY either install it incorrectly or the grommet goes hard over time. Therefore, it is solidly mounted and the shaking of the bike breaks the mount loose - yours is on the way.

The bottom mount is not needed as long as it sits on the provided pad and the other provided pad goes between the tank and battery carrier. Although not required I add a piece of foam between the tank and the oil tank cover. The bottom of the oil tank cover is captured between the Z-Plate and frame by a rubber bumper. In other words, the oil tank is rubber mounted all around.
 
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Correct.

The problem with that original mount is that MANY either install it incorrectly or the grommet goes hard over time. Therefore, it is solidly mounted and the shaking of the bike breaks the mount loose - yours is on the way.

The bottom mount is not needed as long as it sits on the provided pad and the other provided goes between the tank and battery carrier. Although not required I add a piece of foam between the tank and the oil tank cover. The bottom of the oil tank cover is captured between the Z-Plate and frame but a rubber bumper. In other words, the oil tank is rubber mounted all around.
Yes this bottom brazed mount is starting to fracture . Dense foam is your friend .
 
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