I fell off the wagon
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rvich
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pierodn said:
Piero,
The Combats used standard pushrods. It has been recommended for Combat owners to shorten those pushrods to make up for the shaved head. What you are really asking about is how well the head will flow and whether it is a good combination with a standard cam. There is an active thread on head flowing. I am going to copy this message to that thread as I think it fits with that discussion.
head-flow-testing-t8640.html
Russ
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If theys 32s its a Combatish .
Id take to it with an axe , = break it down to the main components . Wheels / forks / powerunit . AND give a few bits a dose of OIL or RUSTPROOFER .
and chuckem in a few tea crates , or whatever .
May make it possible to dissasemble later , without looseing to much blood or bu**ereing to many freds fins * fings . ' One pice stuck ' . :shock: :? :roll: :lol:
Par tick U larly tipping a bit of stuff ( ATF ? ) down the pots & cases , and hitting the treads with C.R.C. etc .
Knactually , hitting ALL the threads with C.R.C. a few days before , haveing a few big newspapers to collect gook , & a few hours on a friday evening
should have it in main lumps . If youve a big socket set & put the boot in ( to kick threads loose :lol: )
o.k. , im not at all on friendly terms with Iron Oxide , & think its better to nip it in the bud . hit it on the head . have a zero tolerance policy etc .
entipy can be contageous . the best antidote is shelves , a steam cleaner * & corrosion inhibitors .
* ( best way if you can , is whip down to the local ' industrial ' car wash ( truck wash ? High pressure hot wand ) with it on the trailer .
Hit it , strip it , wash it clean it , THERE . and cme home with nice clean tidy lumps to sit on the shelves and admire .( after theyve sat in the sun for the afternoon . Been rolled and drained , Sprayed with stuff . poked prodded & inspected etc & so on )
A degree of caution is adviced , filled a car chassis / platform with boiling oil. Had to be ' a bit cautious ' were parked for a few weeks .
You can do ths sort of thing in the sticks. Takes a bit more planning in Gotham City . Best the Olde Newspapers & a few rubbish bags to
remove evidance as it occurs .
You wouldnt believe how much muck can atach itself to olde machinary .
Hide it Quick.
stops being asphixiated , in the shed . too .
( then theres the workshop fan , t he open door , & seeing her indoors isnt downwind
( seasonal & offshore / onshore winds per Morn. Afternoon ) paticularly the Washing .
Depends on what your lifes worth . Fully planned , its possible to overhaul apparatus & leave not material evidance . This requires some forethought & planning
Think of it as a challenge .
Id take to it with an axe , = break it down to the main components . Wheels / forks / powerunit . AND give a few bits a dose of OIL or RUSTPROOFER .
and chuckem in a few tea crates , or whatever .
May make it possible to dissasemble later , without looseing to much blood or bu**ereing to many freds fins * fings . ' One pice stuck ' . :shock: :? :roll: :lol:
Par tick U larly tipping a bit of stuff ( ATF ? ) down the pots & cases , and hitting the treads with C.R.C. etc .
Knactually , hitting ALL the threads with C.R.C. a few days before , haveing a few big newspapers to collect gook , & a few hours on a friday evening
should have it in main lumps . If youve a big socket set & put the boot in ( to kick threads loose :lol: )
o.k. , im not at all on friendly terms with Iron Oxide , & think its better to nip it in the bud . hit it on the head . have a zero tolerance policy etc .
entipy can be contageous . the best antidote is shelves , a steam cleaner * & corrosion inhibitors .
* ( best way if you can , is whip down to the local ' industrial ' car wash ( truck wash ? High pressure hot wand ) with it on the trailer .
Hit it , strip it , wash it clean it , THERE . and cme home with nice clean tidy lumps to sit on the shelves and admire .( after theyve sat in the sun for the afternoon . Been rolled and drained , Sprayed with stuff . poked prodded & inspected etc & so on )
A degree of caution is adviced , filled a car chassis / platform with boiling oil. Had to be ' a bit cautious ' were parked for a few weeks .
You can do ths sort of thing in the sticks. Takes a bit more planning in Gotham City . Best the Olde Newspapers & a few rubbish bags to
remove evidance as it occurs .
You wouldnt believe how much muck can atach itself to olde machinary .
Hide it Quick. stops being asphixiated , in the shed . too .
( then theres the workshop fan , t he open door , & seeing her indoors isnt downwind
( seasonal & offshore / onshore winds per Morn. Afternoon ) paticularly the Washing .
Depends on what your lifes worth . Fully planned , its possible to overhaul apparatus & leave not material evidance . This requires some forethought & planning
Think of it as a challenge .
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About only thing I can see an issue putting Combat head on standard cam is if the CR is raised too much it ups detonation potential significantly. This was discovered decades ago when Combat owners tired to de-tune them by installing a standard cam and they detonated about no matter what fuel of timing. CHO heads shaved .040" which is worth about an extra point CR up. Copper gasket and/or base plate would lower CR and retain factory push rod lengths better geometry, more or less for the std. cam. 2S cam needs some CR d/t its over lap or bogs on low rpms and poorer idle. The head flow rates are about irrelevant compared to cam but Combat heads rather in-famous for having too large of ports for general operation zone and also a rather sharp bend that further stifles flow, till over 6800 then it wakes up but rather too late to get away with long.
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