Higher output stator for LED lights

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maylar said:
he just wants his lights to work...
Click to expand...

Well, a stock stator, rectifier, and a Zener diode would make them work... and no battery or capacitor required... or even much cash for that matter.... I think that has been mentioned in the chain above.

You can lead horses to water, whether they drink it or not is up to the horse.
 
maylar said:
Where do you mount a zener on a featherbed?
Click to expand...

Early featherbed bikes did not have zeners; they used a 3 wire stator that cuts electrical output during periods of low electrical draw (i.e. headlight not illuminated). When the headlight is switched on, the entire set of stator coils come into play.

If I recall correctly, on later featherbed framed bikes, there was a pair of discs that acted as a heat sink that the zener mounted to that was located above the front of the engine, below the gas tank. I think I even saw an early Commando with this set up on it, although it was mounted closer to the battery box I think.

It has been an long time since I saw a bike with this set-up on it. I saw a lot of bikes come and go from my uncles British bike shop back in the '70's and they all tend to blur together now - LOL
Higher output stator for LED lights
 
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I would be inclined to add a small battery to the mix. The weight won't be noticed and the bright lights at idle sure are nice when doing ungentlemanly afterdark riding. I don't have a great grasp of exactly what level of pain is occurring within the alternator via various regulators, however adding battery in the system just seems right.
Like taking ibuprofen when your back is screaming from a hard (half) day of work.

Glen
 
worntorn said:
I would be inclined to add a small battery to the mix.
Click to expand...
Jim said that his lights aren't switched, they're on when the engine is running. A battery gets complicated in that case. Also I think he has a Commando motor in a Featherbed frame, so dunno if he can mount a zener or not.
 
Finding a stock Zenor in good working order will be the issue and may prove expensive for NOS

all the repro Zenors produced after 1999 open at 16 volts
 
maylar said:
he just wants his lights to work...
Click to expand...

I would suggest he has another problem, after 40 - 50 years the copper wire and connections will have deteriorated somewhat. I found the same thing on a lot of my bikes, one of the worst was a flywheel magneto powered bike which wouldn't start first kick no matter I did to it. I finally purchased a set of wire strippers/ cutters crimping tools, stripped back a small part of the insulation to have a "look see" saw the copper was black colour, just replaced that short 2 foot section to the coil, and problem solved.
Even leaving the bike outside for 5 days with overnight temperatures dropping to minus 5 and 6 came out and was convinced it wouldn't start first kick, but to my surprise it did. One happy biker!
As for the rest of the electrics yes they were pretty bad on the wiring department. . . . .
 
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Frankie17 said:
Finding a stock Zenor in good working order will be the issue and may prove expensive for NOS

all the repro Zenors produced after 1999 open at 16 volts
Click to expand...

They are out there - Google 1N3313RB or NTE5256AK. They are a slightly different form factor, but same function. The important part is they need to be cathode-to-case if you are positive earth.
 
I like simplicity - something that was hammered in from racing. A one piece rectifier box fits that qualification. I have two wires to my front light (one to my dipper), two to the tail (one to the brake), that's it. Fresh clean wiring of course. Horn is at my side.

I went to LEDs because I ride a solid frame and if you revv it to 7000+ on a speed run its going to vibrate and blow your incandecents. The lightweight pistons made a big difference and I switched to Halogens which lasted longer - but they could still blow. And that's the reason I'm running LEDs now - to avoid the chance of riding home in the dark.

Its a stripped down cafe bike with porting and all the goodies but still tuned mild enough for the street. The photo below is with the previous halogen head lamp.

Higher output stator for LED lights
 
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Derek Wilson said:
They are out there - Google 1N3313RB or NTE5256AK. They are a slightly different form factor, but same function. The important part is they need to be cathode-to-case if you are positive earth.
Click to expand...
Unfortunately the 'R' polarity is not stocked anywhere and you have to buy a bunch of them special order.
 
maylar said:
Unfortunately the 'R' polarity is not stocked anywhere and you have to buy a bunch of them special order.
Click to expand...
How about this one?:

https://ca-en.alliedelec.com

If a Zener is off the table as an option for the OP, then this is all a moot point. Like gtiller, I am out on this one. Cheers and good luck!! Hope you find a solution!
 
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jseng1 said:
I like simplicity - something that was hammered in from racing. A one piece rectifier box fits that qualification. I have two wires to my front light (one to my dipper), two to the tail (one to the brake), that's it.

I went to LEDs because I ride a solid frame and if you revv it to 7000+ on a speed run its going to vibrate and blow your incandecents. The lightweight pistons made a big difference and I switched to Halogens which lasted longer - but they could still blow. And that's the reason I'm running LEDs now - to avoid the chance of riding home in the dark.

Its a stripped down cafe bike with porting and all the goodies but still tuned mild enough for the street. The photo below is with the previous halogen head lamp.

Higher output stator for LED lights
Click to expand...
What about rubber mounting the headlight did you try that?
 
jseng1 said:
I like simplicity - something that was hammered in from racing. A one piece rectifier box fits that qualification. I have two wires to my front light (one to my dipper), two to the tail (one to the brake), that's it.

I went to LEDs because I ride a solid frame and if you revv it to 7000+ on a speed run its going to vibrate and blow your incandecents. The lightweight pistons made a big difference and I switched to Halogens which lasted longer - but they could still blow. And that's the reason I'm running LEDs now - to avoid the chance of riding home in the dark.

Its a stripped down cafe bike with porting and all the goodies but still tuned mild enough for the street. The photo below is with the previous halogen head lamp.

Higher output stator for LED lights
Click to expand...
Is that how you get round not wiring in a horn?
 
You've certainly got your money's worth out of that bike, Jim. How long have you had it now? If it's the same one you started racing with, that has to be close to 40 years.

Ken
 
maylar said:
Jim said that his lights aren't switched, they're on when the engine is running. A battery gets complicated in that case. Also I think he has a Commando motor in a Featherbed frame, so dunno if he can mount a zener or not.
Click to expand...

Then add a $7 20 amp automotive toggle switch to the mix. A small battery and toggle switch fits my definition of simplicity, but we all think a bit differently.
That big brass tubular thing with all those valves looks way too complicated to me!
Without a battery, do the lights dim out to next to nothing at idle? They do on my dirt bikes set up similarly.


Glen
 
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