Higher output stator for LED lights

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Before I start testing - can I just run the two stator leads directly to the LED lights without the podtronics or will it fry them?

I suspect its a problem running the podtronics without a battery. I've often noticed my lights suddenly getting brighter, then dimmer etc at cruzing RPM. So how do I get around not using a battery? The original zenner diode and rectifier isn't as clean and tidy as the modern replacements.
 
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@jseng1 no, that’s not possible.

Even though a rectifier is just four diodes strung together, you’ll need a more stable supply to stop your LEDs from going pop, which the alternator cannot provide on its own.


...fit a capacitor if you don’t want a battery.

Alternatively Podtronics, Tympanium and Boyer Bransden all make reg/recs with built-in capacitors.
 
Gtiller - if my podtronics already has a capasitor, but the podtronics doesn't work without a battery - then I am still nowhere.
 
The only regulator guaranteed to work without a battery is the zener diode. I found out the hard way that my Shindengen FH0020 will work without a battery, but it's probably bigger than you want.
 
jseng1 said:
Gtiller - if my podtronics already has a capasitor, but the podtronics doesn't work without a battery - then I am still nowhere.
Click to expand...

Fit an external capacitor ... try 100 uf, then go up. One of those old blue cans should do the job nicely.

If you find you need a battery, use a 2.5 AH gel cell. I'll send you a dwg of a sheet metal hold down tray with space for vibration dampening foam. Fits in a 3.25 x 4 x 2.75 inch space, and weights perhaps 1.5 lbs. (incl. battery)

Slick
 
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Your Podtronics probably doesn’t have a capacitor, because you are experiencing this issue.

The most popular Podtronics unit that most places sell don’t have the capacitor in them.
So if you are set on keeping the one you have got you would have to run an external capacitor (like the blue can original that is probably still sat in your shelf) or a small battery (by far my preference)


The one WITH a capacitor built-in is part number POD4-1-HP


The standard Podtronics with no capacitor is sold as:
POD1-P
POD-1P1-HP
CS-4035
JRC 17-104A

Also:
Wassell/Lucas WW10121
Tri-Spark POD-HP-1P

EDIT:
Here’s a couple of links to reg/rec units with a capacitor built in.
jrcengineering.com

JRC 17-104PB | JRC Engineering, Inc.

PODTRONIC 1 PHS POWER BOX
jrcengineering.com jrcengineering.com
jrcengineering.com

JRC 3570 | JRC Engineering, Inc.

POWER BOX BY BOYER 12V
jrcengineering.com jrcengineering.com
 
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There are no part numbers on my podtronix rectifier. 04-07 and 160W is painted on.

When I put a meter to the two stator leads (everything else disconnected) I only see 3 eratic volts.
With the meter on diode test (2K) it reads .002
 
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jseng1 said:
I suspect its a problem running the podtronics without a battery. I've often noticed my lights suddenly getting brighter, then dimmer etc at cruzing RPM. So how do I get around not using a battery? The original zenner diode and rectifier isn't as clean and tidy as the modern replacements.
Click to expand...

I believe the whole point of having a battery is to even out the voltage.
 
jseng1 said:
The original zenner diode and rectifier isn't as clean and tidy as the modern replacements.
Click to expand...

Actually, I find the rectifier / Zener set up more elegant personally. It is more efficient at turning your AC into DC and is easier on your stator than a short regulator, as the voltage clamping is done on the DC side of the system.

I recently went through testing a bunch of different regulator / rectifier setups, as my Alton alternator was shipped with a weak rotor. The old system worked the best over all. And is way cheaper (3 - 50A rectifiers for $10 off Amazon, scrounged around in my Norton bits for an old Zener and I was off & running).

Does you bike still have Z-plates?
 
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@swooshdave yes, it is to smooth out the supply.
However, in addition, the circuitry inside the Podtronics is powered by DC, so you need a load across the positive and negative leads so that the circuitry can be powered up.
Without some kind of smoothing/load capability, the reg/rec will keep powering up and down which is the symptom that Jim is seeing.

@jseng1 you should assume that the Podtronics you’ve got does NOT have a capacitor built in.
Most of the ones they sold don’t, and I believe that it’s only the high power version (200 watt) that has a capacitor as an option anyway.

Running for a sustained period without a battery or capacity could potentially fry the reg/rec anyway.
It certainly invalidates the warranty straight away.
 
what about the stator direct only showing 3 AC volts?

Looks like I'm in for a new stator and rectifier with capacitor.
 
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Sorry Jim,

When you said “12.6 on the car. But only 3.0 on the bike” I assumed you had measured DC volts on both.

Then I totally missed your subsequent post saying that you are seeing 3 volts AC across the stator leads with everything disconnected.


Your resistance is about right - between 1 and 3 ohms, and neither end should have any relationship to ground at all.
Your AC voltage should be enough to make a headlamp bulb glow at engine idle.
With no load, and just a multimeter across the leads, you should see around ten volts at 1,000rpm.

So it is likely that your stator is a little tired (a symptom of using a short-type reg/rec that is spending most of it’s life dead-shorting the windings in the stator)
With no battery to charge, and no coil ignition as a consumer you alternator’s life is massively reduced.
 
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Maylar - testing the disconnected stator at the leads, the ohms read 1.8 with the meter on 200

Its amazing that the lights burn as well as they do. I didn't really know there was a problem.
 
Go to Al Osbourne's web site aoservices.co.uk
He worked for Nortons back in the day as its resident electrical guru. His website has a load of useful info. I'm sure you will find it useful
especially the alternator-testing-colours page.
 
Triton Thrasher said:
I’m puzzled.

LED lights use less power than incandescent bulbs.
Click to expand...
What about this? The SS clone is all-LED on a MkIII charging system along with the higher-spec Pod. Issues with low-voltage crap-out of the nearly 45-year-old analog Boyer are pretty much cured.

It's hilarious listening to the headlight bulb fan spool up when I switch the power on.
 
Somethings very wrong if only getting 3V with LEDs on. Throwing a high output stator on seems like a rather expensive bandaid that may not be addressing to root cause. Got to check stator output before leaping to replacing it. Issue may be as simple as a corroded contact on a switch (ign or lamp etc), a short to ground or faulty component drawing away those amps.
 
gtiller said:
Sorry Jim,

When you said “12.6 on the car. But only 3.0 on the bike” I assumed you had measured DC volts on both.

Then I totally missed your subsequent post saying that you are seeing 3 volts AC across the stator leads with everything disconnected.


Your resistance is about right - between 1 and 3 ohms, and neither end should have any relationship to ground at all.
Your AC voltage should be enough to make a headlamp bulb glow at engine idle.
With no load, and just a multimeter across the leads, you should see around ten volts at 1,000rpm.

So it is likely that your stator is a little tired (a symptom of using a short-type reg/rec that is spending most of it’s life dead-shorting the windings in the stator)
With no battery to charge, and no coil ignition as a consumer you alternator’s life is massively reduced.
Click to expand...
Well does this mean there is a downside to running without a battery?
How did Norton get round it when they fitted a capacitor in place of the battery?
 
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