Higher output stator for LED lights

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yes the lights dim at idle, but I don't care.
 
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Apparently the digital readout volt meter I use won't read DC volts correctly because my podtronics doesn't have a capasitor (it reads fine with a battery in the circuit). Neither will it read the AC output directly off the Lucas stator correctly (it reads fine with househole AC).
 
My digital multimeters won't read properly with the bike running. I guess there is too much RF interference coming from the ignition system.

I bought an inexpensive analog meter, it works fine when testing for charging output with the engine running.
 
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jseng1 said:
Apparently the digital readout volt meter I use won't read DC volts correctly because my podtronics doesn't have a capasitor (it reads fine with a battery in the circuit).
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The rectified AC becomes pulsating DC and has a high AC content. Some meters will read AC + DC, some won't.

jseng1 said:
Neither will it read the AC output directly off the Lucas stator correctly (it reads fine with househole AC).
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A 6 pole alternator will be outputting 300 Hz at 3000 RPM. My Fluke meters will respond up to 500 Hz but lesser meters are often limited to 50/60 Hz. I had a Craftsman DMM that dropped off rapidly above 400 Hz (was trying to measure audio at the time).
 
gtiller said:
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But you need to run it with a decent reg/rec or you’ll melt the stator.
Ideally a series-type unit (I use and recommend the Shindengen SH775)

Your alternative to a combined reg/rec is running a couple of zeners and a separate 3 phase rectifier like this $10 VS-36MT60.
View attachment 18743
This combo would, in my opinion be far superior to a short-type reg/rec like a Podtronics or a comparable unit.

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Grant,
My research indicates that there are loads of counterfeit SH 775 units sold cheaply on eBay and Amazon. Where do you recommend obtaining a genuine Shindangen SH 775 from?

Who is the manufacturer of the VS-36MT60 rectifier? I assume that this unit is probably available through most of the big electronics suppliers in the USA? [Waytek, Digikey, Mouser, etc.]

Charlie
 
chaztuna said:
My research indicates that there are loads of counterfeit SH 775 units sold cheaply on eBay and Amazon. Where do you recommend obtaining a genuine Shindangen SH 775 from?
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This guy has the real deal:
http://www.roadstercycle.com/index.htm

chaztuna said:
Who is the manufacturer of the VS-36MT60 rectifier? I assume that this unit is probably available through most of the big electronics suppliers in the USA? [Waytek, Digikey, Mouser, etc.]
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Vishay for that p/n, though other equivalents are available. Digikey has them:
https://www.digikey.com/product-det...tXTv84uulh-5SjAhw3zY1O7DTrNhs9RoaAkmDEALw_wcB
 
Frankie17 said:
Finding a stock Zenor in good working order will be the issue and may prove expensive for NOS

all the repro Zenors produced after 1999 open at 16 volts
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Zener diodes do not "open". They become a load, like a headlight, to absorb the excess voltage/current. This is shed as heat, hence the need for a big heat sink. They are an analog device. As the voltage increases, the Zener absorbs more power, to keep the voltage within design limits. Genuine Lucas Zener diodes are extremely rugged devices. The only thing that ruins them are moron owners/mechanics. Triumph chopper owners would throw away that beautiful 1970 & earlier "star burst" heat sink. They would mount the zener to the steel rear motor mounts, then bitch when it failed! o_O The other way to kill one is to use the "tighten it till you hear something snap, then tighten another 1/4 turn, torque method! ;) I almost forgot. The chopper guys would chrome plate the "star burst" heat sink! :eek:
 
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maylar said:
Unfortunately the 'R' polarity is not stocked anywhere and you have to buy a bunch of them special order.
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A group buy perhaps? They would have to be fairly cheap, as Andover Norton supplies an "alternate source" capacitor.

https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/sho...-2mc-54170009-031075-requires-spring-06-3909-

FYI, electrolytic capacitors don't like to lay dormant [unused]. If left unused for a year or more, they will short out if simply put back into service. You can reform a dormant capacitor by applying lower voltages to them. See

Reforming YouTube Video

Using this method, you can rejuvenate your old, original Lucas capacitor
 
jseng1 said:
I like simplicity - something that was hammered in from racing. A one piece rectifier box fits that qualification. I have two wires to my front light (one to my dipper), two to the tail (one to the brake), that's it. Fresh clean wiring of course. Horn is at my side.

I went to LEDs because I ride a solid frame and if you revv it to 7000+ on a speed run its going to vibrate and blow your incandecents. The lightweight pistons made a big difference and I switched to Halogens which lasted longer - but they could still blow. And that's the reason I'm running LEDs now - to avoid the chance of riding home in the dark.

Its a stripped down cafe bike with porting and all the goodies but still tuned mild enough for the street. The photo below is with the previous halogen head lamp.

Higher output stator for LED lights
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Nice Sax. Spent the past 2 days with Fraser Sax of Ont. Norton Owners and he showed me several he is selling after repairs. This thread is about LED headlight electrics and draw so I went to see Derek who fit my MK 111 with LED headlight. Works a charm , bluer colour and no battery draw issues . LED back too. Next project 4 LED console lights.
 
jseng1 said:
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I’ll check rotor magnetism – shade tree way of by seeing if the magnet will lift off the table with a piece of metal.
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I've done that shade tree test for decades. First, using a known good or new rotor, see how much weight the magnets will pick up. Then repeat the test with the suspect rotor. I like to use bar bell weights. That will at least give you a basis of comparison.
 
Frankly, IMO the OEM lucas rectifier/Zener is a better system than the Podtronics for the Commando. I have a Pod on my Alton-equipped Commando. I installed it because I fell for the "newer/modern must be better" AND the fact that I installed the CNW rearset and didn't want to drill holes for Zeners. BUT the Lucas rectifier/zener system had almost .2V higher charge rate at any RPM compared to the Pod. I don't see that (Podtronics) as an "upgrade!"

However, despite that, the bike will charge at 900 RPM idle with the OEM headlight OFF. With it on, it charges at around 1500-1800. So the Alton alternator works fine on my Norton. I ASSUME that with the low draw of an LED headlight it would charge at idle but I don't know that.
 
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