Heinz Kegler Clamps

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L.A.B. said:
olChris said:
Hijack....

Being a colonial in OZ, i dont understand Vat how much does "VAT" represent % $ wise ............

UK, 20%

https://www.gov.uk/vat

But you won't pay VAT if you are not in the European Union. So if it says the price is EX VAT, that is the price you pay outside of Europe. If the price includes VAT, deduct 20%.
 
L.A.B. said:
Andover Norton also sells a pre-Mk.III type cradle with the cotter pin location for £235 (+VAT)

Heinz Kegler Clamps

http://www.andover-norton.co.uk/SI%20Frames.htm
Gearbox cradle for 750/850 Commando; suits both types of isolastics, those with steel shim adjustment and those updated with Mk3-type adjustable isolastics.
Similar to 06-4060, but with cotter fixing for the swinging arm axle à la 850Mk3.

http://www.nortonmotors.de/ANIL/Norton% ... e-list.php
PART NUMBER: 066972
DESCRIPTION: G/BOX CRADLE, COTTERED & ADJ"L
PRICE: £235

Good point there Lab!

I still went with Norman though as he re-furbs the swinging arm bushes and seals at the same time, it all comes back ready to drop straight in, makes for a slightly easier life!
 
chasbmw said:
dantriumph said:
Hi.
Just noticed that Holland Norton Works has these Clamps.
http://www.hollandnortonworks.eu/?lang=NL&page=4
Dan


if you google around there is a UK industrial supplier who will sell those clamps in stainless steel for not very much

But if you have no proper precision drilling machine, you have to give it to machine shop. The drilling must be exactly vertical. Ok - in total it maybe cheaper nevertheless.
 
I could make them aluminum BUT I have had one ham fist strip a pair in steel. I also don't know why you want them in aluminum as there is nothing to gain.

eskasteve said:
Anyone try this with aluminum split shaft collars?
 
They're a piece of cake to make.
Just slap some stock in your lathe and bore it to what it's going to wrap around then slice off a couple slabs.
Lay out lines so the bolt hole will be in the middle of the meat at the centerline, mill the flats for the allen heads then drill and tap the holes.
Then cut it in half perpendicular and relieve the one half for the allen head bolts to go through.
Drill a hole in the middle of the lower half and drill and tap for your clamp screw and lock nut.
Mount it to the swing are and transfer a hole for the clamp bolt.
Drill it through, set it with the clamp bolt and lock it down with the jam nut.
Piece of cake, no big whoop.
 
eskasteve said:
Aluminum looks cool and is a bit lighter

Given the cross section of the clamp halves once drilled I would not think aluminium would be strong enough to hold the pivot pin securely as intended under the loads put upon it by the swinging arm. As that is the hole reason for the clamps in the first place not looking cool why bother? You can't see them and you will look after cooler leaned hard over in a bend with big smile on your face than on your hands an knees trying to point out that you have alloy bit no one else has.
 
Thanks for your expert opinion. Always nice when a certified metallurgist and structural engineer takes the time out from his busy schedule to help inform those of us that need educatin'. Just wondering if anyone had tried it. My guess is that they are better than no clamp at all.
 
For the amount of weight you will save steel vs alloy of the clamps go to the toilet before you go for a ride. If you want to be flash use titanium as alloy is not up to it or they would be made out of it. Make them and fit them if you like and then doubtless you will tell rhe world they work but I don't think many would follow.

Try reading up on tensile strength of alloys vs steel which is its self an alloy. I like EN24T for such item's but as I have reinforced the cradle and add extra clamping screws to the pivot I don't need clamps myself so do what you like. :roll:
 
Again, thank you for your expertise. Now I'm worried that the aluminum frames on a few of my other bikes aren't up to task.
 
eskasteve said:
Again, thank you for your expertise. Now I'm worried that the aluminum frames on a few of my other bikes aren't up to task.

They like aluminium crank cases where designed for that purpose of course but surely you know that now you are just being silly. Having said that Commando crank cases and gearbox shells are botj known to brake as they are about at the limit of capabilities. Suzzuki had problems with alloy frames a while back braking on their flagship new (back then) 200mph bike. So you see big companies can get it wrong and before you start am not saying I know more than them. Its just common sense. You asked a question an didn't like the answer so now you are trying to justify your point of view fine but ask yourself this then. If aluminium of which there are many types is up to the job why does everyone use steel?

Aluminium depending on grade is one third the weight of steel depending on it grade BUT also a third the tensile strength. So by the time ypu have a clamp with enough cross sectional area to with stand the loading it is bigger than the steel version and no lighter plus its increase in size may lead to clearance issues with the available space. Aluminium for frames crankcases con rods etc etc is designed for the use not just someone thinking lets save weight or this will look good.

Over to you.....
 
How can I not weigh in on this?

Classic example are alloy rims such as those from Excel. By the time you add enough aluminum to match the strength of the steel rims, they weigh about the same. :mrgreen:
 
Anyone have pictures of the original Heinz Kegler clamps that were done in aluminum?

It's not just the weight, corrosion resistance also.
 
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