Harness Installation

850commando said:

build if from scratch use weatherpak connectors

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+1 that is my plan. It will be a bit before I get to that point but will be posting pictures

Link to connectors, wiring accessories, and more ......

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/useful-links-universal-parts-and-accessories.18169/

Slick

Holy cow, thanks for those tips LAB. I think I would have been in hard shape without those corrections. The installation plan you sent is just like the one that came with the harness. And thanks for the dialectic grease point Craig.

Onder, I can order from the UK, but a couple of things I’ve ordered from there took an excruciatingly long time and shipping has been irritatingly complex in a couple of cases. So far it’s been way quicker and less painful to order from within Canada for this project.

850 Commando, I’m in northern Labrador, and I would estimate that the nearest Norton owner is at least a thousand kilometers away. They would also need to be flown in this time of the year .

In terms of my overall strategy, I’m thinking of leaving things as original as I can in terms of the front lights, and anywhere else where things look ok. The back lights and fixture are missing, so I would be willing to go LED in that area, and elsewhere if the original bits are not usable. Do people generally see LEDs as being better/brighter? I’m hoping to hook everything else up and use the bike, probably before I sort out the back lights and fixture – do you think this will be ok?

Someday I’d love to get into doing wiring from scratch, but I’m a total noob when it comes to electrics, and I already have a new harness ready to go. The weather pack connectors look nice, and it looks like they come with both male and female parts, which is cool. Are they only suitable for LED situations? The things I’m having trouble finding online are the appropriate size flat male tabs that fit into the flat ‘double’ connectors that are common on the wiring harness. I can probably salvage some from the bike as I go and clean them up and reuse them.

Thanks for the wiring and connectors link TexasSlick, maybe I’ll find the tabs I’m looking for there. So far Craig’s Nova Scotia business is looking like a good way for me to go. They’re pretty close, relatively speaking.

Last evening I put my rebuilt main switch back together and got my new harness, freshly restored horn and Podtronics unit out. I hooked up the main switch and mocked up the other components on my kitchen table for practice, to see how things would look and to familiarize myself with the wiring and instructions. This was a good chance to do some continuity testing as well to make sure my main switch is working as it should, and it seems like it is. I think between the new harness and the pieces that I can salvage from the old one, I can probably get a lot done while I make a decision on where to purchase connectors, and while I wait for them to arrive.

I have a Boyer, so I don’t need the ballast resistor or the condenser right? And I can keep the capacitor along with the Pod, correct?

Thanks again folks, all your help is greatly appreciated!!

I have gone LEDs, brighter, don't vibrate into small pieces and lower wattage.

Supercat said:

I have a Boyer, so I don’t need the ballast resistor or the condenser right?
And I can keep the capacitor along with the Pod, correct?

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Correct, as long as the 2MC capacitor tests ok (manual, section J24) although it might not prove to be any use for emergency starting (discharged or disconneced battery) with electronic ignition.

(two ignition condensers)

Depending on ign system it can take about 15 mph in 2nd to spin charger above 10.5 v so capacitor helps hold then discharge enough to get a combust that revs up enough to keep on running, as long as staying in charging rpm. Capacitor so light in stunning blue not and eye sore but a feature I like retaining as helps feed electro sparkers current spikes similar to sub woofer amp hits w/o clipping. Think of caps as extra eager small battery assist.
https://www.google.com/search? here, just don't tell anyone here if following these cave man circuits
https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1...i131k1j0i22i30k1j0i22i10i30k1.145.YWpqDMC1m8E

"In terms of my overall strategy, I’m thinking of leaving things as original as I can in terms of the front lights, and anywhere else where things look ok. The back lights and fixture are missing, so I would be willing to go LED in that area, and elsewhere if the original bits are not usable. Do people generally see LEDs as being better/brighter? I’m hoping to hook everything else up and use the bike, probably before I sort out the back lights and fixture – do you think this will be ok?"

If by "front lights" you mean to include the headlight: I think you'll find the original incandescent is truly dismal, and will want to upgrade to H4 halogen, at least. Easily done.
As for the rear, a tail/stop lamp assy done in LED is a good idea, just for the current savings. I got mine from Brit Cycle, http://www.britcycle.com/Products/led/LED.htm
and CNW now has one, too.https://coloradonortonworks.net/cnw-led-taillight-conversion.html
Some guys make their own: https://www.accessnorton.com/Norton...lling-391-53973-a-bulbsthatlastforever.24460/

LED's will usually last about a million times longer (not really) than the stock bulbs and use far less current, and can be but are not necessarily brighter. Many (most?) LED's are rated for lumens, but most regular bulbs aren't, so it can be hard to compare.
I use LED's in the instrument cups, the warning lamps in the headlamp shell, and the tail/stop lamp. All are brighter than stock.

As long as the 2 other people in northern Labrador don't run you over from behind, I can't see a problem using the machine without the rear lights for a while.

Thanks LAB, Kommando, Hobot and Mr. Rick - all of this is helpful and will come in handy.

And, Ah-ha!! Those 'flat male connectors' that I've been struggling to find - I've just discovered that they're called 'spade connectors', and I believe they are 6.3mm variety .