"Goof-proof" anti drain valve sequel (2012)

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gtiller said:
@ foxy - did you order the pingel valve in the end?

Please keep us informed!
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Gday gtiller, no I havent orderd it yet as the overall cost is high! Freight to OZ is $60 so looking to source the valve in Australia to bring the price down? Shops here that supply are shut for the holidays!

rgds foxy
 
FYI....I've located a stash of the ignition-interrupt manual ball valves as made by IronJohn.....found at MotoParts Inc. in AB Canada...
  • Part #: 64102
  • anti-wetsump valve, with electric shut-off
They sent me a video describing the function and at the end showing the various sizes available...looking identical to those posted by IJ himself...I suspect he sold his lot to MPI....


Pricey at $200 CDN, but might save someone the trouble of making their own....it is a clean looking setup. An even nicer setup is to just make an electrical connection to the ball valve body and then put another connection on the handle (insulated from the metal) so that it contacts the body side only when valve is fully open (or closed if that's what you want). Could be rigged to interrupt ignition or sound a buzzer/horn if ignition turned on but valve not open....
 
Tornado said:
They sent me a video describing the function and at the end showing the various sizes available...looking identical to those posted by IJ himself...I suspect he sold his lot to MPI....
Click to expand...


As mentioned before that video test is deceptive because all suppliers of in-line ball/spring AWSV instruct to initially prime the hose between the valve and oil pump to avoid sucking air instead of oil.
 
nortonspeed said:
As mentioned before that video test is deceptive because all suppliers of in-line ball/spring AWSV instruct to initially prime the hose between the valve and oil pump to avoid sucking air instead of oil.
Click to expand...
And the bit near the end where they show rate flow and have a caption stating the inline check valve was much less than ball valve ( which was same as no valve)?
 
Sorry if this has been suggested as I haven't read the whole thread, but Holland Norton sell a decent valve (no affiliation). I use it in conjunction with a oil pressure gauge. I just cannot be arsed crawling under the bike to drain oil and if I start it when sumped then there is serious amounts of smoke.
 
Steves said:
Sorry if this has been suggested as I haven't read the whole thread, but Holland Norton sell a decent valve (no affiliation). I use it in conjunction with a oil pressure gauge. I just cannot be arsed crawling under the bike to drain oil and if I start it when sumped then there is serious amounts of smoke.
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What is the oil pressure indicated when the bike is running? Thanks
 
Bill. thats because there doesnt need to be one there. (as no doubt would know)
 
There are two distinct sets of inline valves, those that have caused engine destruction and those that eventually will destroy an engine.
 
I wouldn't go that far, I've got a manual valve with lockout that works fine, no issues and there never will be.

The check valve is a bad idea tho. Hard to imagine relying on that to work every time.
People seem to keep putting them in there, giving it a try.

Glen
 
worntorn said:
I wouldn't go that far, I've got a manual valve with lockout that works fine, no issues and there never will be.

The check valve is a bad idea tho. Hard to imagine relying on that to work every time.
People seem to keep putting them in there, giving it a try.

Glen
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Never will be ?

I’d venture there is a far better chance of failure than never failing.

Lot of dead parachutists who said never fail.
 
No, the way it is set up the engine has to have oil before you can even attempt to start it, period . Have explained it before.


Don't confuse that with the sproingy check valve you installed on your bike and
then surprise- it didn't work.
It shouldn't have been a surprise.
 
worntorn said:
No, the way it is set up the engine has to have oil before you can even attempt to start it, period . Have explained it before.


Don't confuse that with the sproingy check valve you installed on your bike and
then surprise- it didn't work.
It shouldn't have been a surprise.
Click to expand...


There is nothing between the oil tank and junction block except a hose on my bikes, nor will there ever be. Yes, I did try a spring loaded valve and found I had zero oil pressure at idle with hot oil. Chucked that sucker under the bench.

I’d be pretty much be willing to wager there are no other dry sump engines that have a valve, of any sort, between the supply and pump.
 
I have a manual valve on my N 15 .
Only closed when I won’t be riding it for a month or longer .
The lever of the valve is never on the bike ( stop practical jokers .. )
The stem of the valve is colour coded for doublecheck .
All It takes is a little discipline to remove the battery first .
Never a problem .

"Goof-proof" anti drain valve sequel (2012)


"Goof-proof" anti drain valve sequel (2012)
 
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84ok said:
ain't no such thing as goof proof
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Ignition key is required to turn oil off. With oil off ignition key is locked in valve.
To start engine you need the ignition key, which you can only get by turning on oil.

Goof proof.

Glen
 
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