"Goof-proof" Anti-Drain Valve (ironjohns)
- Thread starter L.A.B.
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A solenoid valve that is held closed by a light spring is opened to flow only when current available, but would need decent charged/capacity battery not to drag down the ignition system so not really that good a mod in Cdo's and take back the suggestion of it.
While a solenoid valve may seem interesting, it does not flow as well as a (manual) ball valve ad it adds another failure possibility if it closes due to an electrical problem. I assume the valve used is opened when powered, if it was the other way, open when there is no power, the solenoid would drain the battery if the bike was not used for a while and then the engine would wetsump.
Jean
Jean
good day gentlemen been working like crazy making valves up as of this morning we will have all the out standing orders in the mail to every one that has ordered so fare and the last part of the order for the ajs matchless club us section parts specialists order if i have not responded to any one please excerpt my apology's i have been getting from 5 to 25 emails every day about them and its hard to keep up with all of them and do all my work there are a few from oz that i have tried to respond two that my e mails will not go thew to them don't know y but they can try to contact me threw the group e mail and try that way thanks every one for your patients on getting your valves out to u will be working on stock this week so it will not take so long on the next orders have a good day all ironjohn
N
nortonspeed
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ironjohns said:
Ironjohn is it possible to show us a picture and price of the 'newest one' ?
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I don't think it is a 'non-problem'. Wet sumping is a real pain in the backside. Me bike is currently sitting in my garage with a bolt stuffed up the feed line. I'm always thinking that I must remember to reconnect the feed line before I start it. It's a silly annoying thing to have to keep on your mind, and I'm certain that one day I will forget and destroy the motor, and possibly myself along with it.
A few days ago, I thought that I had not disconnected the feed line after using the bike a while back, so I had to go and check. Fortunately I had done it, but along with the battery, it requires regular attention/checking. I don't like being slave to things like that.
A few days ago, I thought that I had not disconnected the feed line after using the bike a while back, so I had to go and check. Fortunately I had done it, but along with the battery, it requires regular attention/checking. I don't like being slave to things like that.
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I have resisted putting an anti wet sumping valve on my Norton. Usually I ride it enough that it doesn't wet sump very much. I have found that the type of oil I use makes a big difference to how much it does wet sump. The Mobil 1 Vee twin oil seems to not wet sump as much as some of the non synthetic oils I have used. I am going to have to try the idea of leaving the engine at TDC when I park it. Maybe that will make a difference.
My Goldstar came with a manual valve. At first I didn't use it because it didn't seem necessary. Then I changed the oil to on that seems a bit too light. Then it would smoke when I started it up because of wet sumping if it was left for a day, or even 8 hours. I started using the valve. I was worried I would forget to turn it on, so I got a string and tied it around the valve and the kick starter. That way I can't start the engine without removing the string. When I remove the string I turn the valve on. When I ride the bike I put the string around the steering damper. When I put the bike away for the night I turn off the valve and put the string back on and tie it to the kick starter.
It is a pretty simple system that works.
My Goldstar came with a manual valve. At first I didn't use it because it didn't seem necessary. Then I changed the oil to on that seems a bit too light. Then it would smoke when I started it up because of wet sumping if it was left for a day, or even 8 hours. I started using the valve. I was worried I would forget to turn it on, so I got a string and tied it around the valve and the kick starter. That way I can't start the engine without removing the string. When I remove the string I turn the valve on. When I ride the bike I put the string around the steering damper. When I put the bike away for the night I turn off the valve and put the string back on and tie it to the kick starter.
It is a pretty simple system that works.
N
nortonspeed
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tricatcent said:
Not always
:I used a manual valve for 3 years in combination with a disclock-reminder-wire (one end on my trottle grip and the other end on the kickstarter) to be sure NOT to forget to open the manual valve. The inevitable happened, don't ask me about the circumstances but I did forget to open the valve finally. I rode for 4 miles only to find out there was zero pressure on my gauge Immediately I opened the valve and was extremely lucky no harm was done inside my engine. From that moment I fitted a CNW automatic anti drain valve and got rid of the manual one.
maylar
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worntorn said:
Your report is the first I've ever seen about a "blown seal". Norton knew about wet sumping and it's even mentioned in the rider's manual (run the engine 3 min before checking oil level). My bike sits for the winter months and in 38 years I've never given it a second thought, other than it's a bear to kick over after it's sat for a while.
IMO wet sumping is a non-problem and any method of preventing it, no matter how clever, has more risk of catastrophe than ignoring it does. YMMV of course.
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nortonspeed
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maylar said:
Well I blew that seal also and after draining my sump countless times I am really happy with my CNW valve last years.
1up3down said:
Maybe Dyno Dave can chime in on this... I was told by Iron John that the ball and spring "automatic" anti-sumping valve passed 20% LESS oil than just tubing in the same amount of time. He ran the pump with a drill sucking oil from a container with and without the automatic valve and timed it for one minute, then measured how much oil had been pumped. It is clear that the automatic valve is a restriction and it could be worse at low speeds. A manual ball valve with a switch is a much better solution, no restriction and it has to be opened for the bike to start.
Jean
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Anyone have any opinions on this ? PhilSGOUD2 said:
Norton-Villier said:
I might think that it would depend on the resistance of the switch itself. If no resistance you could run it into the feeder for the switch in line with the fuse but probably not advisable.
You could put it in line with the ground of the ignition but grounds are so important I might not mess with that one either.
I would ID the line coming out of the switch to the ignition module and give that a go. This would keep other system out of the loop and not overload the switch not mess with the grounding circuits.
Unrelated, this unit seems small in the ID area. I think the inherent problem with ANY of these valves, and/or checks, is starving the supply. This is particularly worry some when cold and using straight weight 50.
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