Good News, Bad News, and Really Bad News!

pkeithkelly said:

britbike220 said:

No, I was wondering if the dude that started the thread actually tore into it and how this turned out for him.

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Had no idea when i did this initial post that so many people would chime in with thoughts on this topic.

By the way, are there any other "death-defying" (potential) known issues - something that could cause a lock-up while riding????? I'd be glad to take preventative measures.

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One other thing that comes to mind is a speedo drive gearbox locking up which can cause the cable to wrap around the rear axle . Use a couple heavy duty zip ties and zip the cable to the swingarm for safety. That way if it locks up it will pull the cable apart at the rear fitting instead of at the speedo head. Lubing the gearbox occasionally is a good idea too.
That and stay out of the bars. Jim

By the way, are there any other "death-defying" (potential) known issues - something that could cause a lock-up while riding????? I'd be glad to take preventative measures.

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YES THERE IS BUT ITS THE OPPOSITE OF LOCK UP - UNEXPECTED RELEASE OF DRIVE OR DRAG!!!!!

Symptoms are coming out of 1st when leaning over and easing off power being as careful and slow as possible suddenly bike can lunge forward faster than room or traction allowed for. How it developed in Ms Peel's case, was heading out noticed I had to reshift into 1st creeping on grass to gravel drive way, then again 20 mph ease off to cross cattle grate and sharp turn up hill to Gravel road way, thinking I was just too at ease too low effort shifting action. Took a hot joy ride in worse dangerous tight spots to practice lost of traction hi power moves, then turned around to see traffic ahead so snicked to 1st to just coast keep half dozen car lengths/ full turn behind car - going 20-ish mph leaned good for unpowered turn when rear crossed over a 9" square section of missing pavement chunk about 1" deep flat bottom, this instant of no load on drive train let it jump out of 1st so rear just kept right on going sideways out from under so fast I was left running down the road a few yards to keep from falling and left standing in mid lane watching Peel slide a dozen more yards into graud rail. No damage to me or bike and did not yet understand what had happened. So took off to finish hi powered risky flings on way home, then taking my ease -nil risk Gravel Travel to make up for my wild adrenalized state to calm down. Got to downhill sweeper to aim into cattle gate, going 12 mph leaned a few degrees, no power turn to safely just coast the easy turn, popped out of gear, bike suddenly sped up as rear slide out towards a hi side angle so leaned a bit more and turned forks to make up for the widened turn, which worked to sharpen turn so much I had to run half way up 3 ft inside berm grader had left and on rolling down to grade level front tire got trapped in 4" wide water rut unseen filled with leaves to snap bike tire out and dump full weight of bike on my pelvis on peak of the berm, to fracture innominate pelvic bone and fusing from birth facet joint of L5/Si. But I was so so pleased I'd protected the 500 dollar new B/G paint job on IS tank.
Took me over 6 months to walk upright like a man instead of skewed hound dog.

Moral of this tale is stock extra first gear bushes as they are the thinnest fastest wearing and once too slack can set you up for bad shock when going the safest slowest easiest operation possible still rolling > straight into a crash so fast no chance to react or squeal until the impact forces it out of ya.

pkeithkelly said:

"The dude" that started the thread got off easy.....

The result - the bearing was toast, but did not cause any other damage. All the bushings and gears are in top condition (21,000 miles on the bike) so the layshaft bearing is the only issue - at a parts cost of about $30. It goes back together today, and I'm on the road tomorrow when I get back from a business trip.

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It is always good to know the outcome of an issue, thanks. Do you know what bearing he happened to use?

How often should one change the transmission oil?

Mike

I am not sure what Norton recommends but I change mine once a year. I use lightweight synthetic intended for modern car manual transmissions. I average around 8000 miles a year. Jim

Main oil issue is corrosive acids from moisture. Tranny don't heat up enough to cook off moisture so once a year not a bad idea. Its also worthwhile to flush gear box oil after few hundred miles after a rebuild. Much swarf and metal chips to dust will flush out on first change. I can feel the difference in drag from gear oil grade vs ATF. But not unless I'm getting real frisky.

comnoz said:

You can order the roller bearing here for $23.97 . Just a click away. Jim

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit10205

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I ordered the bearing above....too bad it's the wrong one. Substantially larger than the layshaft bearing....oh well :roll: , now to order from a British Bike Parts Supplier....

Aaron, I am sorry the link turned out incorrect. Obviously I had saved the wrong one last time I ordered bearings. I have some of the correct bearings here if you will PM your address to me I will send it your way. Jim

comnoz said:

Aaron, I am sorry the link turned out incorrect. Obviously I had saved the wrong one last time I ordered bearings. I have some of the correct bearings here if you will PM your address to me I will send it your way. Jim

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Thanks Comnoz. PM sent. I think the bearing maybe an NJ203 rather than NJ205 but after ripping into my gearbox that's the least of my worries!

Yes the link I had posted was for bearings I had purchased for a KTM trans I had done. The link is now repaired, sorry if it caused anyone any problems. Jim

MkIII's came with a mickey mouse layshaft bearing made in Portugal. Anyone who owns one and has not replaced the pos is riding on borrowed time. There is a good Timken replacement (forgot the part #, oldtimer's disease) available at almost any bearing stockist.