Final Proddy Build

Hey swoosh, A guy here has had one for years, we see it around a lot.
He has a strip of black double sided tape between the Fairing and the Shield.
makes sense to me.
It would help hold things together, stop water and dust getting down in between and would certainly
help with the vibration factor.
It would be a comfort to know that if any of the bolts came loose, it would still be held firm.
AC.

So, some interesting news. I went over to my uncle's to help him move some bikes around. This is a same uncle that transported the Proddy pieces across the country and when he got here we couldn't find the side brackets or hardware when he got here. We assumed he left them in AZ on the way back. Anyways we moved some stuff around and I I came home. After I got home I got a call, he had looked in some box he thought had some other parts in it and lo and behold… the side brackets! So I should get them tomorrow. Phew.

In the meantime I rolled the bike out into the sun to take a few pics.

Can you raise the rear of the fairing so it follows the tank and seat lines?

GRM 450 said:

Can you raise the rear of the fairing so it follows the tank and seat lines?

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Yes, when I get the side brackets tomorrow.

Looks Great!

If you ever paint the tank , / the silver side panel looks the go , with the yellow . How about Alloy side panels , someone .

Once I got the fairing in its final position I had to re-adjust the handlebars.


You know you have them right when the cap barely clears.


So much nicer than if I had tried to make some.


Yes, I'll be replace this hardware with some nice allenhead stainless but thanks for asking. :mrgreen:


Down here I'd like to get some thick rubber washers, but this will do for now.

Need to order a banjo connector for the brake line. Bleed the brake and take for a spin, provided the rain stops.

I managed to pop by Tacoma Screw on the way to work this morning. We were having a bit of a winter storm which meant a ton of rain and some decent winds.



I picked up some button head bolts for the fairing bracket. I needed a smidge more clearance for the tank.

I need to figure out how to get a little more. Once I can get the bike out I'll loosen all the mountings and try again.


Here are the bolts I think I'll use for the fork stops. I'll glue some sticks on them (see the previous page for a pic) and then when I think I have it right I'll get them welded up.


Turning radius is still tight but these bikes weren't made for going slow. :mrgreen:

I've also got to figure out turn signals and mirrors.


I've got some tiny LEDs for the rear lights but I was trying to figure out how to do the fronts. There's such a gap around the headlight bucket I thought about adding a LED ring around the headlight and wiring half for each turn signal. It would be pretty discrete and yet should be pretty visible. I'm sure a certain Canadian is wondering why he didn't think of it first and will probably whip one up by the weekend. :mrgreen:

No real need to do any welding to sort the fork stops. All you need is a small billet of alloy or steel, cut and file it to the width you need to make effective fork stop, cut a slot into it so your OE fork stop fits in nicely, fit it over the OE stop, drill a 4mm hole through both parts and secure with the correct length roll pin. This will take a bit longer than a bodge using welding, but can be easily removed should you decide to change back to standard look.

Be interested to see how long the side brkts last before vibration fractures them (thru' the outer clamp half). Definitely need some thick rubber washers under the side plates to fairing. Not sure if it helps the brkts survive very long but it must help. Mine are 1/10" medium hard rubber, a little softer than household tap (faucet) washers. Also used button heads to improve tank clearance and make sure you align the nut flats for max clearance as well.

Keith1069 said:

Be interested to see how long the side brkts last before vibration fractures them (thru' the outer clamp half). Definitely need some thick rubber washers under the side plates to fairing. Not sure if it helps the brkts survive very long but it must help. Mine are 1/10" medium hard rubber, a little softer than household tap (faucet) washers. Also used button heads to improve tank clearance and make sure you align the nut flats for max clearance as well.

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I will get a lot of rubber washers for all the mount points.

Carbonfibre said:

No real need to do any welding to sort the fork stops. All you need is a small billet of alloy or steel, cut and file it to the width you need to make effective fork stop, cut a slot into it so your OE fork stop fits in nicely, fit it over the OE stop, drill a 4mm hole through both parts and secure with the correct length roll pin. This will take a bit longer than a bodge using welding, but can be easily removed should you decide to change back to standard look.

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I still prefer to have a completely removable option and don't look forward to drilling through the stop on the frame. If the other method doesn't work I'll have to go to this option.

swooshdave said:

I still prefer to have a completely removable option and don't look forward to drilling through the stop on the frame. If the other method doesn't work I'll have to go to this option.

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Not necessarily. There are bolt-on steering stops that are similar to tiny clip-on handlebars with rubber tips. I have a pair on a set of Roadholders for my Triton project. They can just be seen on this photo of the front end before I cleaned it all up-

Fat lot of good those do me on your bike. :mrgreen:

Hi Swoosh,

You might want to try out these little bonded rubber vibration mount thingies for the fairing mounts. There's about a 6mm vulcanised rubber cylinder between two discs with co-axial M6 threads out each side.



Is giving my fairing a nice compliant mount. Not running yet so can't comment on vibration isolation. Just a thought though.

davamb said:

Hi Swoosh,

You might want to try out these little bonded rubber vibration mount thingies for the fairing mounts. There's about a 6mm vulcanised rubber cylinder between two discs with co-axial M6 threads out each side.

Is giving my fairing a nice compliant mount. Not running yet so can't comment on vibration isolation. Just a thought though.

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Where you get them from?

From the local engineering store - sells bearings and other industrial bits. You should be able to find an equivalent over there. I intend to cut the threads back when I'm satisfied and then put cap nuts on them (similar to what's on the rocker covers). Should look ok I reckon.

I got the new banjo fitting from Old Britts today. Of course I had to get it on the bike all pronto like. Of course having some front brake helps maneuvering the bike around, especially with the reduce turning radius.


First step was to shorted the brake line. Compared to the fittings the line is pretty inexpensive. I just took a hacksaw to it. With the plastic cover on the stainless steel braid you don't need to do anything but cut it.


Then I cut and peeled back the plastic sheathing.


Next was to slip the fitting over the hose.


And then the compression fitting. Fred recommends pressing the fitting on by shoving against something firm, "This keeps the braid from inserting itself into your fingers."


After running a punch into the inner line I screwed on the other part of the banjo. Just tighten.


And the banjo bolt.




I don't know if I should shorten it some more. It's better than before and the line doesn't act as a bump stop anymore. So that's good.


I bled the brake with a vacuum pump but it's not great yet. The first time I did the brakes I had the same problem. I'll need to keep bleeding them until they work right. But at least the bike will stop. I put the clamp on and we'll see if that also works.

Still dumping rain so no chance of any riding for a while. If perchance I get a little bit of sun on a weekend I might take it around the block.

Those brake line end fitting are not legal here in Australia, (Queensland for sure, not sure about other states) They work ok but be really sure you've got the end fitting on properly.
The cheapest braided hoses I've found are from Ducati wreckers, lots of different lengths. Front brake, clutch and rear brake, they're legal and about $10 each on ebay.
Not hanging shit on your ability to do brake ends,,,, just suggesting something that "may" be cheaper and easier.
graeme

GRM 450 said:

Those brake line end fitting are not legal here in Australia, (Queensland for sure, not sure about other states) They work ok but be really sure you've got the end fitting on properly.
The cheapest braided hoses I've found are from Ducati wreckers, lots of different lengths. Front brake, clutch and rear brake, they're legal and about $10 each on ebay.
Not hanging shit on your ability to do brake ends,,,, just suggesting something that "may" be cheaper and easier.
graeme

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What is illegal about them? A standard compression fitting and braided lines. How else would you do them?