Final Proddy Build

gtsun · Oct 17, 2011

What do you mean it's not a set up for " Daily ridding"? I had my 72 750 set up with exactly this setup - fairing as my only source of transport for several years. Loved it & hated it when I put it back stock. Of coarse I was 20 but I have my 850 similar and at times due 200/300 mile days in joy, although a accedental 12+ hour ride killed my wrists. It's never as comfy as a normal ridding position but put in the time & you will build the neck and other muscles to handle it.

GRM 450 · Oct 17, 2011

Love/Hate,,,,,,above 60mph you'll love it, under that you'll hate it.

swooshdave · Oct 17, 2011

gtsun said:
What do you mean it's not a set up for " Daily ridding"? I had my 72 750 set up with exactly this setup - fairing as my only source of transport for several years. Loved it & hated it when I put it back stock. Of coarse I was 20 but I have my 850 similar and at times due 200/300 mile days in joy, although a accedental 12+ hour ride killed my wrists. It's never as comfy as a normal ridding position but put in the time & you will build the neck and other muscles to handle it.

Not ideal for daily commuting, not that I would use the bike like that. When I was 20 I did all kinds of things I wouldn't/couldn't do now. :mrgreen:

Matt Spencer · Oct 17, 2011

A tip : Chin Pad , if youre ripping over a concrete bridge , where the road suddenly levels , dont poke out your tounge .
put chin ON chin pan , Not over .

:shock:

swooshdave · Oct 17, 2011

Matt Spencer said:
A tip : Chin Pad , if youre ripping over a concrete bridge , where the road suddenly levels , dont poke out your tounge .
put chin ON chin pan , Not over . :shock:

I could never get the chin that far, not with the gut in the way. :mrgreen:

swooshdave · Oct 17, 2011

This is the kind of fasteners that were included with the fairing, unfortunately they are probably with the side brackets.

I had actually thought of using well nuts, as that seems to be a better method of fastening and providing more vibration resistance.

grandpaul · Oct 17, 2011

Mine go-

screw - cupped washer - rubber - plexi - rubber - fairing - rubber - washer - nut - dab of silicone.

grandpaul · Oct 17, 2011

swooshdave said:
So you guys are saying to ignore the pre-drilled holes and just re-drill new ones?

Don't ignore them entirely, just start from the front with the hardware package and you'll quickly see that the holes line up bare plexi to bare fairing, they DON'T line up with the rubber pads in between.

gtsun · Oct 17, 2011

Ha ha.. We all did crazy things when we were 20 but when I was 20 I was older then the bike by more then 10 years, thank God Norton was still using tech & Designs from before my youth cuz I only like bikes with that old world beauty & Commandos also had preasent day usable power & ridding capabilities etc etc. Still do as far as I'm concerned.

Paul · Oct 19, 2011

For making holes in the plexi, I use a red-hot nail. Works perfectly and the edges of the holes are nicely rounded off. Most important : there's no risk for breakage.

pete.v · Oct 19, 2011

Paul said:
For making holes in the plexi, I use a red-hot nail. Works perfectly and the edges of the holes are nicely rounded off. Most important : there's no risk for breakage.

You can also add a slight negative rake to the cutting edge of the drill bit as you would when cutting brass. This will act to scrape and discharge the material, keeping it cooler and not allow it to grab and split.

swooshdave · Oct 19, 2011

I'll get the hardware and bolt it up loosely before getting worried about drilling.

ggryder · Oct 19, 2011

swooshdave said:
Carbonfibre said:

Do the bars contact the tank on full lock? if so then it would be a good idea to modify the steering stops to prevent this, as it very easy to end up with a dented tank. Alloy tanks designed for use with clip on bars often have indents pressed in to overcome this problem, and it worth while getting one of these if clip on bars are going to be used.

Click to expand...

Since it's apparent you don't know much about Nortons, let me fill you in on something: this is the Production Racer configuration, the setup is designed to go together, so no, the handlebars won't hit the tank.

Well, yeah, but you say elsewhere that "turning radius is virtually nil" (and although I know what you mean you should have said "infinite" rather than nil). I had a pair of clip-ons with the through bolts like that and the fasteners were making a mess of the production racer tank. There are other types of clip-on that avoid the problem (to a greater extent) and offer a tighter turning circle.

Cheers! ~ Gary

swooshdave · Oct 19, 2011

ggryder said:
Well, yeah, but you say elsewhere that "turning radius is virtually nil" (and although I know what you mean you should have said "infinite" rather than nil). I had a pair of clip-ons with the through bolts like that and the fasteners were making a mess of the production racer tank. There are other types of clip-on that avoid the problem (to a greater extent) and offer a tighter turning circle.

Cheers! ~ Gary

Considering that the top triple clamp hits the instruments before the handlebars hit anything I'm not sure of your point.

And I have no idea what you mean by "infinite" when I obviously meant "nil" or none. But thanks! :?

JAYMAC · Oct 20, 2011

It looks like you need to look at a proper Norvil Production racer rather than just try to go for the image. If your not going to race then you would be better not to fit clip-ons as this configuration will be uncomfortable for road riding. :mrgreen:

swooshdave · Oct 28, 2011

The original hardware from Norvil was metric. Well, I couldn't have any of that. As I didn't have all the hardware might as well replace it all.

It's a flat head screw, finish washer, thick O-ring and then a washer and nut, all stainless (well, not the O-ring). Plenty of clearance through the plexiglass and a snug fit through the fiberglass.

Next up is temporary side brackets.

I've seen many with the black between the plexiglass and fiberglass, is it just tape or a rubber seal?

GRM 450 · Oct 29, 2011

Either way thats a good idea to cover the dust and bugs that end up there, it'll stand out on yellow.
Looks good Dave, Ducati SS bevels had a bracket that had a bent up flattened section on each end, the 3/8 th (?) tube was one piece with a bracket in the middle that bolted to the frame in the middle.
Easy on a Commando.
I'll find a picture if you need.
graeme

bwolfie · Oct 29, 2011

My Dunstall fairing uses a rubber strip between the fairing anf the windscreen.

mikegray660 · Oct 29, 2011

JAYMAC said:
It looks like you need to look at a proper Norvil Production racer rather than just try to go for the image. If your not going to race then you would be better not to fit clip-ons as this configuration will be uncomfortable for road riding. :mrgreen:

yes but most people on the forum don't ride their bikes (not referring to Dave specifically), preferring to keep them in the garage, take pictures of them, and post endless dripple on the net :roll:

swooshdave · Oct 29, 2011

GRM 450 said:
Either way thats a good idea to cover the dust and bugs that end up there, it'll stand out on yellow.
Looks good Dave, Ducati SS bevels had a bracket that had a bent up flattened section on each end, the 3/8 th (?) tube was one piece with a bracket in the middle that bolted to the frame in the middle.
Easy on a Commando.
I'll find a picture if you need.
graeme

Grandpaul sent me some pics of some brackets. I got some flat steel to make them from. I think I'm good. Thanks!

Final Proddy Build

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