engine oil
- Thread starter nortyboy
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Valvoline VR1 15w50 & 50wt has jumped in price since this thread started ,at least in my area. Now it's $5.89 a qt. :evil: .Thanks guys, now that the word is out, I have to spend more of my lunch money. 
I hope your sump backs up and clogs your breather......
:!: Drats :!: :!: :!: :mrgreen:
cheers!
Tim
I hope your sump backs up and clogs your breather......
:!: Drats :!: :!: :!: :mrgreen: cheers!
Tim
If you can afford it, you can't do any better than Amsoil. http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/mcv.aspxnortyboy said:
Highest zink level and other tests as explained in the link.
To me, it's worth it. If there was something better out there that cost twice as much, I'd probably get it.
40 year old works of art that kick ass and I want mine to out live me.
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We don't have wet clutches and we have separate gearboxes.
Matt at CNW says to use non synthetic Castrol 20-50 GTX .
Matt at CNW says to use non synthetic Castrol 20-50 GTX .
highdesert said:
Funny, Castrol GTX is one oil I will not use. For some reason, years ago, my old Matchy G80 used to seize when using that stuff & I had a little end seize & rip the bush out on my old Huntmaster. Also speaking to someone who used to race Minis, he has has had trouble with GTX as well.
Mind you, I used to hammer my bikes then, though didn't have problems with Duckhams. Using Rock 10-40 in the Commando now, seems fine.
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Sorry to bring this thread back, but has anyone ever used Castrol Edge Sport 25w/50 mineral based oil? It's what they list in Oz for air cooled 4T bikes.
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productd ... Id=6008869
http://www.castrol.com/castrol/productd ... Id=6008869
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Do they still make Golden Fleece CBM.
It used to be the go, rather than Castrol R, you know, when things had to smell right.
AC.
It used to be the go, rather than Castrol R, you know, when things had to smell right.
AC.
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MexicoMike said:
Mike, I agree it was true in the 70s when oil was made into a multigrade by adding spin additive [ VI additive] However good modern multigrade oils as recomended for truck or HD use no longer use these additives that used to cause all the problems. [loss of viscosity]
I have sent oils to and had lengthy discussions with people who do engine oil analysis who have confirmed that.
Straight weight oil is not a problem unless you like to ride your bike when the weather is cool. Modern 20- 50 truck or motorcycle oils are very good nowdays.
Just stay away from oils designed for modern cars as they have had the heavy metals removed so they don't damage the catalytic convertors. Most - but not all racing oils still contain the necessary additives. Check there specs on their websites to find out. Jim
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Fullauto said:
I live in Las Vegas, NV and we have the same hot temp. We have to adapt to our environments. I'm 20/50 and happy.
Here is another viable option for hot areas. With this product and their 20/50, I feel it necessary to change oil only once a year. I still need to add oil once in a while if doing more highway riding than country cruising.CronkyVoddy said:
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/m ... e=MCSQT-EA
There's a guy called Graham Ham who has ridden a 1948 Triumph 150,000+ miles, and written about some of it in a book called "Daisy's Diaries". He makes the point that when he's out on the road he has to put in whatever he can get, happily mixes mineral and synthetic, and changes the oil when he can rather than when he "should".
He finds it funny to listen to all sorts of people telling him why he can't do this, while they completely ignore the evidence that he can -- he arrived on his bike and will go home on it!
He finds it funny to listen to all sorts of people telling him why he can't do this, while they completely ignore the evidence that he can -- he arrived on his bike and will go home on it!
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I have a good friend who has similar experiences on a Norton (some, if not many of you long time Norton owners would recognize his name and he is a past president of the International Norton Owners Club). He rides more miles in a month than I do in a year and has been doing so for many years. His only requirement for oil is that "there be some in there." He also finds all the oil talk/threads very amusing. One of his rides was from Mexico to Tierra del Fuego and then up to the north slope of AK and back to Mexico. The oil he used was "whatever they had."
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Ha just having oil of any kind has happened to me a number of times - mostly 30 wt from farmers d/t oil filter or hose or oil tank leak. Main thing is don't let the engine idle very long and don't let it run below 2000 rpm much or nil oil separation surfing. The other thing is don't pull sword w/o drawing blood, ie: if started should let reach full heat or the ZAPP protection additive does not plate out, which gets removed on next start up. I stopped seeing any metal dust on sump magnet after I began habit of starting and going straight over 2000 rpm soon as it could take throttle to do so and hold it there till sump cleared and slight oil smoke gone, then ride off in low enough gear to stay over 2000 rpm. I sorta do a cam break in each and every time now and wet sump just means sooner cam lobe oil splash. Its a bit nerve wracking till ya put some logic on it.
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Wal-Mart 20-50 with a shot of ZDDP additive from the Brit car place, Moss Motors.
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