Electrical Problem (Thread Split from Electrical Issue)

[pattouno]

Hi
I've big problems with my 73 MK1 850 Commando New parts are Battery.Wiring Loom,Ignition Switch,3 way light switch. What was wrong with the fuse holder as my fault is everything is dead nothing works.
regards

malcolm

 

[L.A.B.]

I take it you are the "Malcolm" who has posted with the same problem on the NOC forum.....

https://www.nortonownersclub.org

.....in which case are you sure the four wires (brown/blue, white, brown/green, blue/yellow) are connected to the correct switch terminals?

Replacement ignition switches can have the terminals (1,2,3,4) arranged in a different order to the original Lucas switch (below).

A simple way to check if the switch is the problem or not is to connect the wires together. Connecting white to brown/blue should give you 'ignition' and adding the other two wires should give you 'ignition and lights'.

Edit: Your "3 way light switch" would have been a two position switch originally, used for selecting headlamp (only) ON/OFF when the ignition switch is at the 'Ignition and Lights' position.

 

[Mr. Rick]

The photo above from L.A.B. gives me the idea that one cd use a screwdriver from the back, and not need the key to turn the switch. Is that true?

 

[marshg246]

The photo above from L.A.B. gives me the idea that one cd use a screwdriver from the back, and not need the key to turn the switch. Is that true?

Only after removing the lock! Won't turn with the lock in place.

 

[pattouno]

I take it you are the "Malcolm" who has posted with the same problem on the NOC forum.....

https://www.nortonownersclub.org

.....in which case are you sure the four wires (brown/blue, white, brown/green, blue/yellow) are connected to the correct switch terminals?

Replacement ignition switches can have the terminals (1,2,3,4) arranged in a different order to the original Lucas switch (below).

A simple way to check if the switch is the problem or not is to connect the wires together. Connecting white to brown/blue should give you 'ignition' and adding the other two wires should give you 'ignition and lights'.

Edit: Your "3 way light switch" would have been a two position switch originally, used for selecting headlamp (only) ON/OFF when the ignition switch is at the 'Ignition and Lights' position.

Hi
Yes checked ignition switch and wires are positioned as picture also swapped wires to all other permutations and everything is still dead.
Did load test on battery and across battery poles it showed 13.06v then after 2 hrs with 45 watt bulb across poles it dropped to 12.41v
Is the battery U/S
Regards
Malcolm

 

[L.A.B.]

Did load test on battery and across battery poles it showed 13.06v then after 2 hrs with 45 watt bulb across poles it dropped to 12.41v
Is the battery U/S

If the electrical system is completely dead as you describe then probably not, or it isn't the cause.

Does your meter show battery volts (or test bulb light) when connected between the ignition brown/blue (not blue/brown as described elsewhere) and battery positive?

 

[L.A.B.]

I just read through the NOC thread and I don't understand your switch readings.

"Here's the results of todays testing Voltage across battery = 13.06v

Voltage at input side of ignition switch BR & BL wire 13.06v

Ok.

Voltage when BR & BL connected 000v

So, you connected brown/blue (NU) to the switch (assume ter.1) and then checked from NU to where?

Then checked all wires on back of switch while connected :-
No4 Position Ign + Lights = 000v

No3 Position Ign only = .630v

No 2 off = 13.06

No1 Parking lights = 000v"

Where are you checking? Sounds more like you are checking between the switch terminals rather than between the terminals and positive?

 

[Torontonian]

Remove the problematic kill switch and connect the 2 wires together. Or the same 2 wires for it under the tank , connect them together there.

 

[L.A.B.]

More from the NOC thread

Rigged a bulb up and here's my results

Good light across battery

Ok.

Good light negative pole on battery and Z plate.

?

No light on Zener feed wire but fit wire back and beep test worked

Sounds like you are testing between NU and NU so negative to negative instead of between NU and positive.

Fuse OK

Wires OK

On ignition switch No light between BR & BL wire and Z plate

What about NU to battery positive.

Position 2 no output from bulb or meter

(Key) position 2 is usually OFF?

Any idea how I check the Boyer Bransden powerbox PBOX00108

What Al Osborn said.

 

[marshg246]

Hi
Did load test on battery and across battery poles it showed 13.06v then after 2 hrs with 45 watt bulb across poles it dropped to 12.41v
Is the battery U/S
Regards
Malcolm

Nothing wrong with that battery if you mean that you had a 45 watt bulb glowing for 2 hours - that would be fantastic. If you mean that you measured then waited two hours and then measured with a bulb across it you haven't really learned anything. In any case, the battery is plenty good enough to light the lights, start the engine and so on.

 

[Peeeleven]

Hi
I've big problems with my 73 MK1 850 Commando New parts are Battery.Wiring Loom,Ignition Switch,3 way light switch. What was wrong with the fuse holder as my fault is everything is dead nothing works.
regards

malcolm

It was the old original glass type fuse holder , corroded dirty and rotting wiring causing high resistence . when the lights were on and the flashers were used it would cut out but only sometimes. I put a new blade type fuse holder in and that solved it. But it sounds like you're fault is not the same. Check for power before and after every connection from the battery with a test light. Good luck.

 

[pattouno]

hi
yes it shows full voltage 13.16v and lights bulb.

 

[L.A.B.]

hi
yes it shows full voltage 13.16v and lights bulb.

In answer to who/which question? Where?

Please include more detailed information and try to answer all questions.

As you may have noticed I have split your thread from the original similar thread to avoid confusion.