EBAY Throttle Body

Gojuu said:
So, I definitely do not have the machinist skills some people on here have; but:

View attachment 84372View attachment 84373View attachment 84374

I'm sure someone else will see its a close copy of what they did lol. An M10 tap was a good size for what was already there, and tapped easily. I held the grub screw in with blue permatex threadlocker and let it set. Later, I pulled vacuum from each of the points with my finger over the hole in the throttle body and it held with no leaks.

Installing it is the next project.
Click to expand...
Did you also fit something like a rubber bung below it Gojuu?
 
@icrken & @cliffa I had a few ides on those fittings. I did consider that maybe as each is independent to a throttle body that it may be an opportunity to put an alternate IAC unit on that had 2 discrete circuits in it and connect one to each side.

The other thing is I have already ordered a Delta from SCS. Once I get my head around that a bit, I was going to explore if there was benefit in connecting a map sensor.

Initially they will be getting blanks.
 
cliffa said:
Did you also fit something like a rubber bung below it Gojuu?
Click to expand...
No I didn't. I did the final cut using a full bottom tap and noted that went past the passages on each side. I did look @icrken 's and others and wonder if I needed it.

I did use Permatex Blue, and I know from previous use that has a sealing effect. I wanted to make sure the thread itself didn't cause a vacuum leak to atmosphere and my thoughts were that as the thread went below the passages and was wider than the passages that it should seal it. And is also why I made sure I tested it. I would not necessarily trust it without the Permatex.
 
Gojuu said:
So, I definitely do not have the machinist skills some people on here have; but:

View attachment 84372View attachment 84373View attachment 84374

I'm sure someone else will see its a close copy of what they did lol. An M10 tap was a good size for what was already there, and tapped easily. I held the grub screw in with blue permatex threadlocker and let it set. Later, I pulled vacuum from each of the points with my finger over the hole in the throttle body and it held with no leaks.

Installing it is the next project.
Click to expand...
Nope, mine will be a close copy of what you have done!! I'm going to see if I have an M10 tap! Excellent work!
 
I also have one of these throttle bodies & have thought about what to do with the two small small connector stubs after the main centre one has been successfully plugged off.

I wonder if they could be connected up to a pair of small 1/4 turn valves or similar, ideally on a common shaft so the they operate together but independently. This could then be used to raise the idle speed for cold starting, with the fuel enrichment being taken care off by the ECU automatically. This would effectively manually do the job of the IAD valve & would only be required for the first mile or so until the engine is warmed up, after which they could be closed. Alternatively, these valves could be electrically operated, but why add unnecessary complication?

Anyway, that's my thinking, for what it's worth.! :)
 
lcrken said:
Nicely done. When I did mine, I used a rubber plug at the bottom because I wasn't sure the threaded plug would completely seal the two side passages, but it looks like I could have left that bit out.

I did just notice one difference between the eBay body and the one that came on my 2014 bike. Mine only has one vacuum port, while yours has two. The other side on mine was never drilled for a fitting. I'm curious if the later bikes had the two vacuum ports, and if so, what they used the second one for. Anyone know?

Ken
Click to expand...
I don't know , But the early OMEX schematic show a MAP sensor .
 
lcrken said:
I did just notice one difference between the eBay body and the one that came on my 2014 bike. Mine only has one vacuum port, while yours has two. The other side on mine was never drilled for a fitting. I'm curious if the later bikes had the two vacuum ports, and if so, what they used the second one for. Anyone know?

Ken
Click to expand...

My 2013 has two of the small ports, both covered with a plastic cap. The manual that I got with it in 2013 refers to a MAP sensor although there wasn't one fitted.
 
Small step.

For the fellow Aussies, caps came from Supercheap Auto:

EBAY Throttle Body
EBAY Throttle Body
 
So, all done, and this is how it idles now:



I've just taken it for a test ride for around an hour. Fair bit of it in stop start traffic.

I'm really happy with the outcome. The bike idles consistently and solid as a rock. The transition from no throttle to light throttle is significantly better than it's ever been and it's a lot friendlier and consistent at ow RPM. Every time I pull the clutch in, it's 1200 rpm. The low speed of the motor just off idle and moving from a stand still might be the best thing about it so far.

Some random things I noticed:

The insulator works. Temp gun shows the throttle body to be significantly cooler than the head.

The grey injectors in my bike probably aren't bosch. The green ones from the ebay throttle have retaining clips but they don't align with the grey. The grey didn't have them. I used the grey ones.

1643177089311.png
1643177130295.png


Because the idle is more consistent the "paint tin with bolts in it" noise seems very reduced.

The ECU (standard SCS) doesn't seem to care that the IAC isn't connected. There's no light or anything.

The hose on the left banjo on my rocker simply connects to the right........

The original throttle body in my bike has a grub screw in where the vacuum take offs are

1643177326907.png


I did use the SX Car "idle set" procedure - but I don't actually know if it did anything - but it was very useful to use the gauges to set the idle accurately.

The lambda values for left and right is SX Car are very consistent at idle - whereas they previously really weren't.

I don't seem to get anywhere near as much popping from the right side exhaust at idle.

If you're going to do it - get long ball ended Allen key T bars before you start. I also needed a smaller 6mm open end for the throttle stop lock nut.

Overall, thanks to all the people that have shared their outcomes and knowledge. If I hadn't read from all the threads here, this would never have got done.
 
Last edited:
Glad it worked well for you. My experience has been similar. It's been almost two years, and 5900 miles, since I did the mods on mine, and I'm still very pleased with the way it starts, idles, and runs. I do still have to give it a little throttle when starting with a cold engine, and hold it at a fast idle for a bit, or just start riding, or so before it will idle reliably, but that's a small price to pay for the huge improvement in idle speed stability. My ECU is unlocked, and I suspect that I could sort the cold start idle out with some changes in the temperature correction maps, but it works so well as is that I haven't bothered.

Ken
 
Gojuu said:
So, all done, and this is how it idles now:



I've just taken it for a test ride for around an hour. Fair bit of it in stop start traffic.

I'm really happy with the outcome. The bike idles consistently and solid as a rock. The transition from no throttle to light throttle is significantly better than it's ever been and it's a lot friendlier and consistent at ow RPM. Every time I pull the clutch in, it's 1200 rpm. The low speed of the motor just off idle and moving from a stand still might be the best thing about it so far.

Some random things I noticed:

The insulator works. Temp gun shows the throttle body to be significantly cooler than the head.

The grey injectors in my bike probably aren't bosch. The green ones from the ebay throttle have retaining clips but they don't align with the grey. The grey didn't have them. I used the grey ones.

View attachment 84471View attachment 84472

Because the idle is more consistent the "paint tin with bolts in it" noise seems very reduced.

The ECU (standard SCS) doesn't seem to care that the IAC isn't connected. There's no light or anything.

The hose on the left banjo on my rocker simply connects to the right........

The original throttle body in my bike has a grub screw in where the vacuum take offs are

View attachment 84473

I did use the SX Car "idle set" procedure - but I don't actually know if it did anything - but it was very useful to use the gauges to set the idle accurately.

The lambda values for left and right is SX Car are very consistent at idle - whereas they previously really weren't.

I don't seem to get anywhere near as much popping from the right side exhaust at idle.

If you're going to do it - get long ball ended Allen key T bars before you start. I also needed a smaller 6mm open end for the throttle stop lock nut.

Overall, thanks to all the people that have shared their outcomes and knowledge. If I hadn't read from all the threads here, this would never have got done.
Click to expand...

Gojuu, thanks for the detailed feedback,. I'm pleased for you, your bike sounds great !!

I'm not sure I follow you about the difference between the grey and green injectors though?
 
cliffa said:
Gojuu, thanks for the detailed feedback,. I'm pleased for you, your bike sounds great !!

I'm not sure I follow you about the difference between the grey and green injectors though?
Click to expand...
Green is a different (higher) flow rate correct ? That might run better or it might not. Clive changed his injectors to the next higher flow rate when he put the clamp on air filters. His bike was mapped with the grey injectors initially.
 
TonyA said:
Green is a different (higher) flow rate correct ? That might run better or it might not. Clive changed his injectors to the next higher flow rate when he put the clamp on air filters. His bike was mapped with the grey injectors initially.
Click to expand...
Green is a higher flow rate yes. If you look at the start of the thread you will see in the photos that the green injectors have a clip that secures them to the fuel rail. There is a slot in the side of the green injectors that allows fitment of that clip. This slot is in a different spot on the grey injectors, and the clip will not fit. I opted for the grey on the basis that was what my ECU was tuned for. I kinda wonder if a genuine Bosch grey has a clip in the right spot.
 
Gojuu said:
Green is a higher flow rate yes. If you look at the start of the thread you will see in the photos that the green injectors have a clip that secures them to the fuel rail. There is a slot in the side of the green injectors that allows fitment of that clip. This slot is in a different spot on the grey injectors, and the clip will not fit. I opted for the grey on the basis that was what my ECU was tuned for. I kinda wonder if a genuine Bosch grey has a clip in the right spot.
Click to expand...
Picture of the genuine Bosch injector. Does that help?

EBAY Throttle Body


Ken
 
Well that blows that theory Ken, that line in the top of the photo looks too far down the body to me.

I might not be explaining this well.

You can't fit this clip:

EBAY Throttle Body


Cause this grove on the green injector here:

EBAY Throttle Body


Is here on a grey one:

EBAY Throttle Body


I still fitted the grey ones as my bike didn't have clips on it. But I'm always of the opinion that if Bosch bothered to put clips on, they likely did it for a reason.

Especially when it comes to fuel under pressure. Admittedly, it's still the same as my bike was from factory.

Maybe there's different clips, or maybe Bosch do different grooves for OEM vs "off the shelf" injectors.
 
Thanks Gojuu, I understand now. I guess that the clip is not strictly necessary as the rail is held in place with the two Allen bolts, but if you really wanted to fit them I suppose you could carefully saw slots in them in the correct position? Are the green and grey injectors the same physical size? Would the addition of the heat insulator washer be affecting the relative position of the slots?

I wonder what these eBay bodies were destined for as they seem to be quite different to any of the units fitted to production bikes ( as far as I’m aware)
 
Yep, same length @cliffa - and yes, I'm probably being a bit pedantic, but why not do it properly?

This is it from a cold start. I will admit to cold being a matter of context as it's January and I live on the East Coast of Australia.



A tad lopey and hangs around a 1000 rpm, then picks back up to 1200 when warm.
 

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