Dunstall rear sets
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madass140
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its not necessary to have the big alloy plates to fit Dunstall rearsets, drilling one of the 5/16" stud holes on the existing Z plates is all that is required. the big alloy plates main purpose was to mount the mufflers for the
Dunstall 2-1-2 exhaust.
Dunstall 2-1-2 exhaust.
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So, on these is there no mechanism to limit the springs pressure on the brake light switch?
Correct......and mine just sheared off a while back...in the garage! Was able to weld back on. Earlier this year the gear lever vertical arm sheared off the tube it is brazed to. These repros are not high quality parts but are possibly at least as good as the originals.
madass140
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I have the madass supplied rear sets. There is a small "finger" that stops the foot lever from retreating hard so see it is behind the lever. The one in the picture seems to be to the front of the foot rest and above.
Correct......and mine just sheared off a while back...in the garage! Was able to weld back on. Earlier this year the gear lever vertical arm sheared off the tube it is brazed to. These repros are not high quality parts but are possibly at least as good as the originals.
Just to confirm, you are not talking about my "Madass" (pre MK3) rearsets as my gear lever is not the common inferior fabricated brazed steel tube type but the more superior and not so common cast steel version, I went one better and cast the compete shift lever/pedal in stainless.
Regarding the pedal stop for the brake pedal, mine is similar to the original Dunstall type. if you force the brake pedal upwards as what may happen in a spill then the pedal will likely brake the stop and break the stoplight switch which is probably better than having to replace the brake pedal
Correct......and mine just sheared off a while back...in the garage! Was able to weld back on. Earlier this year the gear lever vertical arm sheared off the tube it is brazed to. These repros are not high quality parts but are possibly at least as good as the originals.
Just to confirm, you are not talking about my "Madass" (pre MK3) rearsets as my gear lever is not the common inferior fabricated brazed steel tube type but the more superior and not so common cast steel version, I went one better and cast the compete shift lever/pedal in stainless.
Regarding the pedal stop for the brake pedal, mine is similar to the original Dunstall type. if you force the brake pedal upwards as what may happen in a spill then the pedal will likely brake the stop and break the stoplight switch which is probably better than having to replace the brake pedal
Onder
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Mine is Mk2 850, madass rearsets. The shifter is indeed a solid piece of kit, no questions about that.
I have mine on a TTI box and I believe the box is a bit different than standard so the fit is a bit
tight. But as with most things, familiarity removes most niggles and Im at home with it. Works
well.
However, the brake pedal is necessarily short and you dont get much leverage. The route of the
cable is sharp leading to rapid wear of the cable and adding to the stiffness in the pedal.
In all fairness it is entirely possible that my pathetic rear braking is due more to what is (isn't)
happening in the brake drum than the anywhere else.
Not cheap but it is in cast SS so in the long run it is worth the money.
I have mine on a TTI box and I believe the box is a bit different than standard so the fit is a bit
tight. But as with most things, familiarity removes most niggles and Im at home with it. Works
well.
However, the brake pedal is necessarily short and you dont get much leverage. The route of the
cable is sharp leading to rapid wear of the cable and adding to the stiffness in the pedal.
In all fairness it is entirely possible that my pathetic rear braking is due more to what is (isn't)
happening in the brake drum than the anywhere else.
Not cheap but it is in cast SS so in the long run it is worth the money.
Hi keith,
If you need any help repairing your rearsets let us know.
My Dad bought the rights to the rearsets off M&D in the 1980s, who supplied tickle and dunstall with their rearsets and Since then they have been made in the north of england and supplied through Unity, Hemmings and clubman racing, but unfortunately they are no longer available at most of these places, due to my dads old business closing down a few years back. (He died while racing in 1997 and the business has strugled ever since)
But the good news is that me and younger brother managed to save it before it all got sold off, and are currently in the process of rebuilding the business back up, mainly focusing on exhausts pipes to start off with, but we do still have all the jigs and a few spair parts left over from the rearsets, and all the gear to make them, so we could repair them if you need them brazing back up. Which i may add is not the inferior way of doing it at all...
That why clipons, exhaust pipes and race frames all brazed, Simply because stainless work hardens and ends up cracking, thats why you dont see stainless and ali parts on classic racers as the vibrations from the engine destroys them, that and they dont bend as well when you drop them.
Anyway if you need any help let us know, or email me at raysonsuk@hotmail.co.uk
cheers
Ben Hardman
Raysons Exhausts
If you need any help repairing your rearsets let us know.
My Dad bought the rights to the rearsets off M&D in the 1980s, who supplied tickle and dunstall with their rearsets and Since then they have been made in the north of england and supplied through Unity, Hemmings and clubman racing, but unfortunately they are no longer available at most of these places, due to my dads old business closing down a few years back. (He died while racing in 1997 and the business has strugled ever since)
But the good news is that me and younger brother managed to save it before it all got sold off, and are currently in the process of rebuilding the business back up, mainly focusing on exhausts pipes to start off with, but we do still have all the jigs and a few spair parts left over from the rearsets, and all the gear to make them, so we could repair them if you need them brazing back up. Which i may add is not the inferior way of doing it at all...
That why clipons, exhaust pipes and race frames all brazed, Simply because stainless work hardens and ends up cracking, thats why you dont see stainless and ali parts on classic racers as the vibrations from the engine destroys them, that and they dont bend as well when you drop them.
Anyway if you need any help let us know, or email me at raysonsuk@hotmail.co.uk
cheers
Ben Hardman
Raysons Exhausts
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