Chain

I pm'd chains, one for Trixie Combat, one for Peel project, one for my SV650 with 525 teeth and one for my long suffering buddy Wesley for his rescues and mechanical and curmudgeon assistance. I've run hand full of 1000's miles on too wide 530 sealed links on too small 520 Altas and drum teeth no problemo. Not that ya should but in a pinch don't worry bout it.

The iwis 5/8 x 3/8 will run happily on all but I also do Regina in "narrow" 5/8 x 1/4.

Mailed you back

Andy

I had a 520 conversion with an oring chain. I hated it and reverted to a standard 530.
This winter I fitted the DID VX530 and it is really good. No interference, 530 size and low maintenance. I was concerned about the drag but it has proven to be quite free turning unlike the last Oring setup.
The only issue was to get the rivets flared properly on the master link.

Pete dont try to get them "factory".

As you will have discovered, the pressfit of the plate is huge and the force required
to get ot off will destroy a soft rivet (clue in the name "soft link"). It is enough just to
deform the rivet head.

Andy

andychain said:

Pete dont try to get them "factory".

As you will have discovered, the pressfit of the plate is huge and the force required
to get ot off will destroy a soft rivet (clue in the name "soft link"). It is enough just to
deform the rivet head.

Andy

Click to expand...

When you say factory I am sure you mean the 4 way peen. No, its not that kind of operation. I am sure you know the tool require to flare the end just so. A vernier is almost eccential as to not over do it. Over flaring will cause the link to bind, then having grinding it off and have another go at it.

Oh contrare, hope thats spealt right.

Having fitted litterally 1000s in my lifetime of both O and non O ring please
take note.

The flaring tools are in my opinion the worse things to use.

A couple of good taps with a hammer square on, with the chain supported from behind (I use a big long handled hammer)
will not only deform the head of said rivet but more importantly jar the plate outwards into the deformation. Shame you
lot from across the water cant get to the shows I attend as there is a very simple way to demostrate this using actual
chain.

This is why I prefer connecting links on O ring chain (yes they are available). 99% of home fitted cons on O ring loose the
clip. If the pins on the clip side are tapped a few times, as above, it jars the plate which is also a very tight press fit,
back out against the clip, securing it.

It is all very simple but has been made complicated.

People seeing me rivet chains at shows, next one at Ross next Saturday, are amazed how simple it is.

Chain is metal bashing and although I dont like the term "bashing" it is the loss of grey haired old engineers that has
promoted the sales of expensive bits of kit that give false sense of security.

Enough of the rant.....have a good day.

Andy

You should put up a quick video of your demo from the show.

I have only just mastered mobile phones and even then not texts.

There are many vids on youtube most are not good.

I will try to get a mate to do one.

Andy

pete.v » Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:39 am
I had a 520 conversion with an oring chain. I hated it and reverted to a standard 530. This winter I fitted the DID VX530 and it is really good. No interference, 530 size and low maintenance. I was concerned about the drag but it has proven to be quite free turning unlike the last Oring setup. The only issue was to get the rivets flared properly on the master link.

Click to expand...

Exactly agrees with my own experience plus many others on a number of forums. In my case on 2 makes of cycles was mainly d/t the sprocket teeth giving way first. Another against the grain preference to decide for your self. I worry more about thin solvents on sealed chain or power washing grease out than easy pushed aside dry dust ya can tooth brush off enjoying the quiet intimacy. I have not calculated out the most cost effective path, ie: buying the best chain and maintaining to switch out about 3% wear slack before teeth suffer or just bulk buy a spool of plain chain and switch out about 3% slack to preserve teeth. Felt my SV650 525 x-chain after 50 miles legalish ride to barely feel warmth. 525 size might be interesting compromise to throw into equations.

Just 2 points.

Stay away from 525 as it lowers options on manufacturer and in most cases is more
expensive than comparable 520 and 530.

Please also watch out buying a coil from a bearing distributor, it will most likely be
very budget.

Sorry 3 points.

A chain is shot at 2% elongation not 3%, not rocket science just all chain has 2% case
hardening after that your running soft.

Andy

I just installed my new 530 chain that I purchased from Old Britts, It rubs the chain guard at the brake hub end.
New chain is .872" wide at the rivet. Old Chain is ..738" at rivet, I suspect I need a different chain

Any other ideas?

Dennis

For comparison:
I have (an older) Taiwan KMC brand 530 and the riveted width is 0.802" (20.38mm).

It does not rub the frame/engine parts.

Dennis C said:

I just installed my new 530 chain that I purchased from Old Britts, It rubs the chain guard at the brake hub end.
New chain is .872" wide at the rivet. Old Chain is ..738" at rivet, I suspect I need a different chain

Any other ideas?

Dennis

Click to expand...

My VX530 is .912 with no interference. That chain guard is quite maneuverable and you should be able to tweak it.
.872 must be the heavy duty item.

Any chain labelled 530 is likley to be unsuitable both in width and quality.

The original chain was 10B-1. It has a wodth over rivet of 19 4mm and at the con 20.6.

The point odf buying 10B-1 is all manufacturers psrta for this designation will fit any chain.

It may be crap but it will fit.

The top dog iwis is around £40.

For those with old bikes the Renold number 110056 (10B-1)

Read previous posts guys where folks have purchased chain and they go straight on with no problems,
they also last.

Andy

Thanks for setting us straight on chain factoids Andy. Only 2% stretch before time to replace chain, ugh. That'd work out to a chain change for me before a rear tire wore down grooves in center in 3000 ish miles riding sanely and half that if exercising Cdo full torque run ups very much. My SV650 came with 525 chain so that's as robust as off the shelf sprockets allow or I'd go to 530 sealed size just for the extra mileage. I can tell some chain and sprocket wear by the drive line slackness-jerky-ness but don't want to afford such often chain changing so tend to be tame powering up and slowing down. I've tried cryogenic tempering chainsaw blades to be impressed with the life extension so think it will be cost effective to cryo temper my future cycle chains and sprockets and have done so already to Peel's HD cam chain you supplied me. I'm sold on X-ring and only waiting to use up rest of plain Jane spool of chain between my Trixie, Wes's '71 and my riding mower. Later this year will try 530 x-ring on my Combat to see if it eats a clear path before tranny shell breaks though or not and just JBW and go back to bulk dry plain chain again. Two percent stretch limit just not cost effective to me so don't pay me any heed here.

BTW how well does checking link lift out of valleys on back side of sprockets work for accessing chain and teeth life left? I've settled on 1/3 lift out of valley slack as time to change before teeth start to suffer. Chain tension has little effect on this measure I've found.

Lifting the chain out of the sprocket shows very little despite what the "experts" tell you.

As for Z and O ring, now X ring, this is the last time I will discuss the matter.

As I have said before if you ride daily in all weathers a sealed chain makes very good sense
but for fairweather and low mileage, including race, it makes no sense.

The vast majority of "off the shelf" coils purchased at bearing stockists will be low quality
crap that you will pay usually top dollar for. Bikes do not break chains they wear them, so
high quality material and build spec are more important than f..k off huge plates.

Deep drawn rollers are far better than seamless tube and apart from the very special iwis
automotive chain, stay away from curled rollers.

The base material on chains is fairly common all that really changes are the colour, shape of the
seal and in some cases but not many subtle changes in the bush. Although all companies offer
chromised pin material, it is expensive and not readily available in small quantities. Iwis are
in my experience the only to offer it as a standard feature, I will wait for folks to tell me I
am wrong.

All this is pretty pointless as it has been said before and still only a few on here have trusted
me.

To save the forum getting bored I shall retire from commenting on chain on here. Those who
have taken my advice know my e-mail and those who dont, dont need my help.

Andy

andychain said:

Lifting the chain out of the sprocket shows very little despite what the "experts" tell you.

As for Z and O ring, now X ring, this is the last time I will discuss the matter.

As I have said before if you ride daily in all weathers a sealed chain makes very good sense
but for fairweather and low mileage, including race, it makes no sense.

The vast majority of "off the shelf" coils purchased at bearing stockists will be low quality
crap that you will pay usually top dollar for. Bikes do not break chains they wear them, so
high quality material and build spec are more important than f..k off huge plates.

Deep drawn rollers are far better than seamless tube and apart from the very special iwis
automotive chain, stay away from curled rollers.

The base material on chains is fairly common all that really changes are the colour, shape of the
seal and in some cases but not many subtle changes in the bush. Although all companies offer
chromised pin material, it is expensive and not readily available in small quantities. Iwis are
in my experience the only to offer it as a standard feature, I will wait for folks to tell me I
am wrong.

All this is pretty pointless as it has been said before and still only a few on here have trusted
me.

To save the forum getting bored I shall retire from commenting on chain on here. Those who
have taken my advice know my e-mail and those who dont, dont need my help.

Andy

Click to expand...

Don't sulk off Andy, stay around!

Folk won't beat your door down for chains when they've already got one fitted. Motorcyclists are far too tight to throw a chain away until its worn out!

And as you've already kinda eluded to, most classic motorcyclists are fairly low mileage fine weather riders, I know I am!

So, there'll be a steady uptake of chains from you as and when they're needed I predict.

As for wanting positive feedback, on this forum in particular, silence, and simply not being slagged off or attacked with a minutiae of theoretical / academic argument IS positive praise!!

I have fitted 2 of Andy's Iwis chains, both bought at Stafford. I've adjusted one of them twice in 3 thousand miles, and the other not in 1000 miles. They are great chains, and when my Bonnie and Tridents need chains Iwis will be fitted.
sam

Eddie

I will always be around but you must get sick of folks asking the same questions all the time.

I do not want alienate forum members by boring the pants them.

Andy

andychain said:

All this is pretty pointless as it has been said before and still only a few on here have trusted
me.

Andy

Click to expand...

Being slow learners and fast forgetters don't make us bad or mistrusting. And it doesn't help that the majority of the members are getting on a bit.

If it wasn't for repetition this forum would have been gone long ago or at least the content diminished by 99%.

Oil threads, wetsump, what's the best EI, etc, etc, etc. Nothing unique here.

Andy, taking any of the topics on as the professional advisor and you have signed on for life. Do you think the dermatologist said, "What, another wort? I'm otta here." I doubt anyone actual commissioned you.
Good luck to you. or is this another April fools thing.