Building a more modern and reliable Triton

Hi all,

Great to be part of this group and looking to create a more modern take on the Triton using slimline featherbed frame and swing.

Looking for cafe racer triton tank and seat combo and then use running gear, electrics, engine and forks etc from a 2008 upwards triumph bonevile.

Be good to see thoughts, ideas and what’s worked previously too

Thanks

4 pages of topics in this Triton section, LOTS of great ideas!

Also, good review of what works, and what doesn't...

I’ll be interested how you get on with this project. Locally there are two examples of similar bikes but both frames have been extensively modified. The main issue is the height of the motor. At one time Unity Motors (?) offered new featherbed frames which were made to take this motor. Good luck and keep posting

When Tritons were first devised, they were Triumph motors in Manx Featherbed frames, mainly because Norton would not usually sell just a motor - only just a complete bike. Manx Nortons were never Slimline. I know I am being picky - most buyers would not know what a really early Triton looks like. So for most people, it probably does not make a difference.
If I was going to build another bike, it would be a Seeley Condor. If I was buying a Triton, I'd look for one with a Wideline frame.
I think my values might be all stuffed-up. I think there should not be things on old bikes which are obviously out of character.
A dealer tried to sell me a KTT Velo motor and gearbox in a Featherbed frame with Matchless wheels - all good bits, but in the wrong places.

Nothing wrong with a slimline frame, except a bit heavier than a Manx frame. More comfortable for a road bike, where you often put your feet down. They handle just about the same. Visible differences of course slimline middle slimmer and different rear subframe. In my eyes a Manx is better looking, but there is lots of good looking slimlines. Have a Commando engined slimline with Dunstall plastic tank and seat, looks good. A slimline 650SS cafe style build period looking. An wideline ES2 with lyta tank and Triumph wheels. And of course the old Manx.
Your engine choice seems reasonable, people says that the frame can handle up to 70 horsepower.
Don't know if forks will fit in steering head. The Norton rake is good but you must check trail, about 100 mm will do.
A 18" or 19" front wheel ok, but 17" rear might be on the small side. Slimlines always had same size rims front and rear, some 19", some 18". Of course different widths.
A head steady must be fitted, very important. One of the reasons why featherbeds handles well.
Will be interesting to see much vibrations you get.
Weight distribution affects handling. Memory failing, but I think 50/50 front/rear dry is about right. Some Tritons didn't get it right.
Personal opinion, not too short exhaust.
Never let your angle grinder come close to the frame.
Interesting project, wish you good luck.
Enough rant for today.

Mike40M said:

Nothing wrong with a slimline frame, except a bit heavier than a Manx frame. More comfortable for a road bike, where you often put your feet down. They handle just about the same. Visible differences of course slimline middle slimmer and different rear subframe. In my eyes a Manx is better looking, but there is lots of good looking slimlines. Have a Commando engined slimline with Dunstall plastic tank and seat, looks good. A slimline 650SS cafe style build period looking. An wideline ES2 with lyta tank and Triumph wheels. And of course the old Manx.
Your engine choice seems reasonable, people says that the frame can handle up to 70 horsepower.
Don't know if forks will fit in steering head. The Norton rake is good but you must check trail, about 100 mm will do.
A 18" or 19" front wheel ok, but 17" rear might be on the small side. Slimlines always had same size rims front and rear, some 19", some 18". Of course different widths.
A head steady must be fitted, very important. One of the reasons why featherbeds handles well.
Will be interesting to see much vibrations you get.
Weight distribution affects handling. Memory failing, but I think 50/50 front/rear dry is about right. Some Tritons didn't get it right.
Personal opinion, not too short exhaust.
Never let your angle grinder come close to the frame.
Interesting project, wish you good luck.
Enough rant for today.

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Agreed. Nowt wrong wi’ handling of a good, straight slimline.

Dresda do a mod whereby they hack off the slimline subframe and fabricate a new Manx style one. This makes for the best looking slimline of ‘em all IMO as you have the ‘correct’ looking subframe but the nice contours of the slimline middle section.

Dresda also modify and make featherbed frames, they make them different to suit different motors too. Might be worth the OP giving Russ at Dresda a bell.

Check the chainline on whatever motor/wheels you'll be putting in. "Modern" takes on the Triton can be hamstrung by the little stuff, like chainline width, etc, and can turn things into a monumental undertaking. The old motors have a relatively narrow width, as do the frames and wheels. The max width tire you can fit in a Featherbed swingarm is 110, and the frame can't fit anything much wider, so that might become your performance pinch point with a more powerful motor. Changing the swingarm can begin the cascade of chassis projects that doesn't end until there's not much left of the original frame. Don't ask me how I know...

If I wanted to do something like you're talking about, I would begin by looking around for one of those aftermarket Unity Featherbeds, that @nortonmews mentioned, to capitalize on someone else's learning curve. It wasn't that long ago that they were offered.

Either way you do it, become a VIP member, so you can post a bunch of pics!

t ingermanson said:

Check the chainline on whatever motor/wheels you'll be putting in. "Modern" takes on the Triton can be hamstrung by the little stuff, like chainline width, etc, and can turn things into a monumental undertaking. The old motors have a relatively narrow width, as do the frames and wheels. The max width tire you can fit in a Featherbed swingarm is 110, and the frame can't fit anything much wider, so that might become your performance pinch point with a more powerful motor. Changing the swingarm can begin the cascade of chassis projects that doesn't end until there's not much left of the original frame. Don't ask me how I know...

If I wanted to do something like you're talking about, I would begin by looking around for one of those aftermarket Unity Featherbeds, that @nortonmews mentioned, to capitalize on someone else's learning curve. It wasn't that long ago that they were offered.

Either way you do it, become a VIP member, so you can post a bunch of pics!

Click to expand...

Not just the chain width issue. Modern engines are generally a very different shape being shorter, wider, taller, with deeper sumps.

These can all present challenges….

The featherbed frame was designed for a long chain pre unit, so it’s a long frame with a short swinging arm, the opposite of a modern set up.

Being taller may present challenges to a featherbed frame. The deeper sump certainly does.

None of the above is ‘not doable’ but when I looked at the idea some years ago I confess it caused me to chicken out!

IMO, buying a specially made frame or engaging the services of a pro frame builder would be the way to go unless the OP has significant fabricating skills and equipment.

It doesn’t matter how good your bike building skills are… if you start from a poor base (frame) it ain’t gonna be, or look, right.

Then there’s the ancillary packaging issue, especially if going for a 1200 liquid cooled unit.

All that said… a modern Bonnie motor is a good looking unit. And you get an awful lot of performance and reliability for your money when buying a second hand motor. The 1200 in particular looks really ‘Triumph like’ and has awesome power and torque. So there is definitely a great Triton to be built for those who have the will to do so !

The featherbed was tailormade for a narrow single cylinder engine, hanging down between the lower frame tubes. Somehow they managed to fit the wider Dominator twin in it.
It was first made in 1950 to be light and handle well at the TT. So high speed handling had to be good. Turned out that it was good at short circuits too.
Though I remember it was not ideal for flicking around city corners.
There was some racers who preferred the 7R handling.
Eddie, OP said he will use an smaller aircooled engine.

Mike40M said:

Eddie, OP said he will use a smaller aircooled engine.

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Yeah I know he did Mike… just trying to help him avoid that mistake

Whilst we talk among ourselves the original poster has not been back
Joined and made one post

baz said:

Whilst we talk among ourselves the original poster has not been back
Joined and made one post

Click to expand...

Maybe he took my advice and is still reading the 4 pages of Triton posts here?

grandpaul said:

Maybe he took my advice and is still reading the 4 pages of Triton posts here?

Click to expand...

I know, it's a far-fetched assumption...

Or maybe he is reading and have nothing to add.
Unlike us.

I have the best of both worlds a 1957 Wideline Featherbed with a 850 Commando motor set up, I also own a 2016 Triumph Thruxton 1200S my Norton is a light weight build and is close to the 300lb mark, the Thruxton is a 485lb + lump or around about that weight but I don't know what Triumph did but that lump of weight sits very low and feels light, my Norton is very light and handles great, my Thruxton has a lot more weight to it but feels light when riding it and handle pretty good, even pushing it around the shed it feels light, my point is compared to each bike both bikes feel quite good on the road , the Norton being lighter but the Thruxton feels a lot lighter than it is and also grips the road near as good as the Featherbed.
The Thruxton has wider tyres on the bike and depends what rubber you run it grips the road pretty good have had the tyres right to the edge when up in my favorite twisties, the idea of modifying a good original Featherbed frame to install a modern Triumph motor would be a terrible thing to do, when a modern Thruxton/Bonniville handles pretty good any way.
If you go to one of those repo Featherbed frames which can be built to fit these modern motors, well to me it wouldn't be a true Featherbed in my eyes or way of thinking.
Just the work involved in building a modern Triumph motor into a Featherbed, anyway Don Pender who is famous for his good gear for our Nortons did build an 865 Triumph/Featherbed a long time ago using a Featherbed frame but he cut the top rails so it could be pulled apart so he could get to the valves cover off when the valves needed to be done.
If you research this more you would find his old build, he sold it on a very long time ago, was it worth the troubles who knows.
I been thinking about different motor set ups for my Slimline Featherbed project build but have decided to build it with the 650 Domie motor, it's a 1960 Manxman but was an ex-race bike so not all original and not the original motor for that frame so cafe racer build its going to be.
I like the looks of Tritons but I am not a fan of them, a preunit looks right but a unit doesn't look right in a Featherbed, but that is my opinion, we are all different.

Ashley