cNw #101 Norton Commando 850

Speaking of rear brake cables...
My new one takes over an inch of pedal press before the rear brake drum lever moves.
During that 1 inch press, the outer cable length is compressed visibly shorter by the force, after that, the cable moves the drum lever. I am told by supplier all cables are like that.
Might anyone know of a better cable?
Dennis
 
Well finally, after nearly six months, I’ve got to ride this magnificent machine and that is exactly what it is too; as Clarkson would say, “what a Machiiiiiineee!”.

As of course everyone here knows, this is no mere motorcycle, it’s an event. From the moment you fire him up and then pull away one is totally connected with the most mechanical of experiences; I can image it’s what Spitfire pilots feel, information overload and that’s just the first 500 yrds. F@ck, that was fun!

Gear changes are so positive but without clunk and tbh I soon got into the swing of the right boot change especially up and by the end was happily rev matching on the downshifts. Less successful was I with the rear break; I’m so used to using said in traffic and pulling up to junctions that more than once my muscle memory took over and I changed up, this not helped by the fairly nonexistent gear breaking compared to my W800 but by the end of my 40+ inaugural ride I’d pretty much got the hang of that too.

Only four gears but who cares, you only really need two, third in 30s & 20s and forth the rest; twist and go, and oh boy does he go! Dispatches traffic so well but the real treat is the soundtrack. Holy cow, talk about addictive; an event all of its own, truly epic 😎

I must admit I was expecting a bit more from the brakes. The rear is ok I guess but the peddle has pretty long travel making feathering tricky; I’ll have a look to see if I can set it up better for me. I was also expecting more bite and feel in the Brembo front but hey, it’s about going on a Norton, who wants to bloody stop anyway?

Suspension is fantastic. The progressive fork springs and Hagon shocks with progressive coils inspire great confidence mid bend and although a much firmer set than my W not once was it intrusive, on the contrary, packed full of communication the like of which I’m used to in the Elise; the W isolates you a lot making for a very quite and smooth (smothered?) ride.

Handling, as much as a 40 mile ride can tell me (and a virgin front tyre) was way in excess of expectations no doubt helped by the bike’s physique, small, powerful and light. No nasty surprises at all, quite the opposite, assured and predictable I immediately felt at home.

As I’ve said, this is my very first Norton (any Norton) ride so I’ve no idea how my bike compares to a stock Commando but Matt, if you’re reading this post, you are an absolute genius sir, what an outstanding job. I grinned throughout and more than once shouted with joy and I’ve only done 40 miles. Here’s to the next 10 thousand.😂😂😂
RGM high friction rear brake shoes are the ones to try.
 
You might simply find that the front brake just needs a firmer squeeze than you're used to, something that’s not intuitive if you're used to moderns.

I fitted EBC road/track pads to mine which are EPFA095HH.
 
I’ll first enquire as to what Matt fitted. Obviously no plans on any changes just yet except maybe mirrors. For a first ride and for a machine so far removed from what I’m used to/have ridden, I couldn’t be happier 😂😂😂😂

This whole process though almost glitch free took far longer than expected to the point that everyone I know who’s interested knows except my local ride friends both of whom have R80 custom bike🤭

It’s always been my plan to just rock up on the Commando on the next H Cafe run after which we should meet up.
 
Mine has the "Cafe" front end with dual Brembos with radial master cylinder (whatever that means :rolleyes:) and Showa forks with "limited" travel.
It all works very well though and the brakes are particularly impressive - lifting the rear wheel with three fingers is do-able, although I didn't mean to.
The forks are a little choppy on our rough roads but very sure-footed - overall better than acceptable.
Cheers
 
Mine has the "Cafe" front end with dual Brembos with radial master cylinder (whatever that means :rolleyes:) and Showa forks with "limited" travel.
It all works very well though and the brakes are particularly impressive - lifting the rear wheel with three fingers is do-able, although I didn't mean to.
The forks are a little choppy on our rough roads but very sure-footed - overall better than acceptable.
Cheers
Rob,
I would also like a laymen’s explanation of a radial m/c and how it improves the brake function.
Thanks,
Mike
 
Mine has the "Cafe" front end with dual Brembos with radial master cylinder (whatever that means :rolleyes:) and Showa forks with "limited" travel.
It all works very well though and the brakes are particularly impressive - lifting the rear wheel with three fingers is do-able, although I didn't mean to.
The forks are a little choppy on our rough roads but very sure-footed - overall better than acceptable.
Cheers
My comments were mere first impression, nothing more. But tbh it felt more familiar than weird if you know what I mean? I put that down (pure guesswork as I’ve not ridden a stock bike) Matt’s upgrades including modern tyres. I did get the impression of a fair amount of fork dive compared to my W but I could be wrong. The brakes worked just fine but seeing as my W has 2 pot callipers rather than the 4 here and being full Brembo I was anticipating them being rather grabby but actually thankful they’re not.

My next outing will be more exploratory ie slow manoeuvring, emergency stops, figure of eights etc which was my intention yesterday but hey, new toy man!

The lasting impression of yesterdays ride though was the soundtrack, oh boy I will never tire of that though I may just upgrade my earplugs 😂😂😂
 
Speaking of rear brake cables...
My new one takes over an inch of pedal press before the rear brake drum lever moves.
During that 1 inch press, the outer cable length is compressed visibly shorter by the force, after that, the cable moves the drum lever. I am told by supplier all cables are like that.
Might anyone know of a better cable?
Dennis
Definitely NOT normal!
Genuine Andover Norton ones don't have this 'feature'.
Whoever your current supplier is, I'd say he isn't your friend! I don't swear on this forum, but I'm getting close on this one...
 
Those eagle eyed amongst you may recognise the backdrop. This beautiful and unspoiled Oxfordshire village, Turville, and this cottage in particular was the set used for the hit TV comedy show starring Dawn French, ‘The Vicar Of Dibley’

Like Hambleden, another favourite for TV shows and films (Brothers In Arm among many others), Turville is devoid of any modern street furniture and so retails it period charm.

cNw #101 Norton Commando 850
cNw #101 Norton Commando 850
cNw #101 Norton Commando 850


cNw #101 Norton Commando 850
 
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Rob,
I would also like a laymen’s explanation of a radial m/c and how it improves the brake function.
Thanks,
Mike
The piston is arranged perpindicular to the handlebar, rather than paralell.
Trickle down from racing.
It offers no advantage, other than packaging, as all lever ratios can be acheived in either config.

Same with "radial" calipers.
Mounting bolts perpindicular to the axle rather than paralell.

...."flat slide" Mikuni's as well, a story for another day.
 
After 5 rides and 170+ miles I’m feeling pretty relaxed with the controls layout, no more dabbing the rear break and thus changing up and timing the downshifts whilst rev matching, nice.

Speaking of rev matching. In an earlier post I commented that the bike had very little gear braking, well I was wrong and in a big way. What I’ve worked out is that:

Houston, we have a problem’

When cold and on a downshift the revs hold at about 2.4K after rolling off given the impression that there is little in the way of gear braking. This as you can imagine is very disconcerting to say the least; I’m trying to get to grips with an unfamiliar bike with right shift, I’m negotiating a turn or entering a roundabout and I can’t control the engine speed:eek:

I soon work out that a quick blip on the throttle clears the issue and the rev are under my control. After say, 20 minutes the issue disappears although yesterday it returned as I negotiated my drive.

Naturally I’ve been in contact with Matt and he gave me a few pointers such as check the throttle cable isn’t sticking. I disconnected both end and push pulled, no issues.

Checked the plugs for colour; perfect.

Tightened up loose jubilee clips in case air was leaking giving a leaner mix.

In the end Matt has concluded the slides are probably sticking at times. He informed me that his builds only use one cable for the FCRs, that the return spring is man enough without the second cable installed but in my case it would be best to install the push/pull throttle cable kit.
Amazingly Matt has offered me this at no cost bar postage, what a gent!

First classic bike night with my friends whom I’ve not informed of my acquisition😁
 
The slide actuating mechanism secures to the actuating rod via a small screw (sometimes a cross head, sometimes a small Allen head) shown as #18 in the diagram below.

These screws can work lose, giving rise to a less positive control of the slides and one of the symptoms is an unstable, and times high, idle.

I’d suggest taking the carb tops off and checking these screws.

The slide return spring is plenty strong on these carbs, I doubt that the lack of a ‘push’ cable is your issue.

cNw #101 Norton Commando 850
 
The slide actuating mechanism secures to the actuating rod via a small screw (sometimes a cross head, sometimes a small Allen head) shown as #18 in the diagram below.

These screws can work lose, giving rise to a less positive control of the slides and one of the symptoms is an unstable, and times high, idle.

I’d suggest taking the carb tops off and checking these screws.

The slide return spring is plenty strong on these carbs, I doubt that the lack of a ‘push’ cable is your issue.

View attachment 115693
Thanks Nigel, that sounds like sound advice and a straightforward enough task. The tank is almost empty too which helps; I’ll fill up afterwards on my run tonight and report back. FWIW Matt did wonder how much use the bike had towards the end of Bill’s ownership and indeed it resided at cNw for about a year before I bought it and then 5 months before it arrived. That may have something to do with it and it may clear with repeated use perhaps. Anyway, if the screws are loose we’ll know and if not then whilst I await the cable it clears then all good and if not fit the kit and be done. I look forward to meeting you soon Nigel, I’ll DM message you soon. Cheers
 
Okay not such an easy job as I first thought. Looks like, due to very restricted access, a carbs out job to get to the rear cover screw. As it would be my first time I guess I’ll not get it done in time for this evening’s event. I also noticed when removing the front screw on one of the covers that the gasket is broken at that point.
 
Okay not such an easy job as I first thought. Looks like, due to very restricted access, a carbs out job to get to the rear cover screw. As it would be my first time I guess I’ll not get it done in time for this evening’s event. I also noticed when removing the front screw on one of the covers that the gasket is broken at that point.
It’s not too bad, you don’t have to fully remove the carbs from the bike, just pull from the manifolds and lower them. Some fiddling required, some knuckle skin may be lost, but all doable.
 
Okay, so leave the K&Ns in situ, undo both jubilee clips on each side are roll them forward to access the rear screw?
 
Cafe,
Does gear braking mean the same as engine braking?
Thanks,Mike
 
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