Battery drain…

@TonyA thanks - that's somewhere to start. I started looking at this yesterday while doing other things on the bike. I did note there is a "cranking" relay that actually shuts down other things - lights etc - whilst the bike cranks. I initially thought a relay was opening due to the low voltage (which I then hear when I stop cranking).

I'll keep looking.
 
To my mind, the most logical way to go for those using a Shorai lithium battery is to use Shorai’s own battery management system; the battery and charger were designed to operate together - no brainer really (if you can stomach the cost).

On ‘store‘ battery voltage is dropped to 80% and returned to that level If it drops to 60% over time - apparently the best way to manage lithium batteries. Hit ‘charge’ before a ride and ‘store’ afterwards - rinse and repeat. The front of the charger describes the parasitic loss situation the 961 suffers from. Not saying that this is the only way to go, just that it has proven very successful for me.

That said, this suits the way that I use the bike. 200-250km Sunday morning thrashes around the hinterland near my home. This may not suit others that are touring depending on the extent of the parasitic loss, although the unit is not too large and is very lightweight so could be carried easily enough. My thoughts only.
Battery drain…
Battery drain…
Battery drain…
 
To my mind, the most logical way to go for those using a Shorai lithium battery is to use Shorai’s own battery management system; the battery and charger were designed to operate together - no brainer really (if you can stomach the cost).

On ‘store‘ battery voltage is dropped to 80% and returned to that level If it drops to 60% over time - apparently the best way to manage lithium batteries. Hit ‘charge’ before a ride and ‘store’ afterwards - rinse and repeat. The front of the charger describes the parasitic loss situation the 961 suffers from. Not saying that this is the only way to go, just that it has proven very successful for me.

That said, this suits the way that I use the bike. 200-250km Sunday morning thrashes around the hinterland near my home. This may not suit others that are touring depending on the extent of the parasitic loss, although the unit is not too large and is very lightweight so could be carried easily enough. My thoughts only.
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Exactly! Plus the newer battery model number has been a improvement over the older one. It’s been flawless for me ever since.
 
The thing to remember is that this is not just a 961 fault.
When I bought a Moto Guzzi Sport Corsa the mechanic told me to keep a check on the battery or it will discharge in about three weeks.
Pretty sure certain Ducati’s used to have a battery charger provided with the machine!
 
BUT , This all brings me back to this :

 
@TonyA just as a thought - what you think about powering the speedo off one of the switched inputs outputs of the ECU? That way it wouldn't drain and should just switch with the key?

I agree but - the outcome we really want is no drain.......even though I'd probably still leave it plugged in
 
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Early bikes suffered from flashing neutral and fuel lights. Norton issued a patch cable to affected bikes which in they advised connecting from a permanent live feed. Richard-7 issued his own fix which is the same in essence, but comes from a switched feed. I understand Norton incorporated the fix into the loom on later bikes, but I wonder if they are still using the perm feed? Could this be the answer why so many bikes suffer from drain ?


Also check the battery terminal connections , as some bikes have two cables unsuccessfully crimped to one connector ( +ve I think ), causing starting issues.
 
Does anyone know where the issue lies in the instruments? I have a local instrument specialist who is happy to have a look but as he is on the clock (no pun intended) any pointers will save me money.
 
No should not effect the ECU . This only feeds the clocks and optimate plug. Just switch the optimate/clocks line only.
Thanks Tony for that so Iam going to put a small on/off switch under the seat and wire it in between the fuse that controls the clocks also removed the connector which puts the headlights on when you switch the bike on so you can put the head light on independently, it just gives the ignition a bit more voltage when starting.
 
It's not only modern bikes that drain battery. When fitting electronics to to the old ones they too can drain batteries.
 
Early bikes suffered from flashing neutral and fuel lights. Norton issued a patch cable to affected bikes which in they advised connecting from a permanent live feed. Richard-7 issued his own fix which is the same in essence, but comes from a switched feed. I understand Norton incorporated the fix into the loom on later bikes, but I wonder if they are still using the perm feed? Could this be the answer why so many bikes suffer from drain ?


Also check the battery terminal connections , as some bikes have two cables unsuccessfully crimped to one connector ( +ve I think ), causing starting issues.
Yup, ignore this at your peril. My bike is a 2015 CR and had two cables (unsuccessfully) crimped into a single non-insulated terminal end - attached to the +ve terminal. That type of terminal end is specifically designed for one cable only. I chased an intermittent fault around for months, courtesy of this setup and good old Norton vibration. Not sure this could cause parasitic drain but it can certainly cause you electrical gremlins:oops:! Another one to watch for Nortonistas!
 
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@TonyA just as a thought - what you think about powering the speedo off one of the switched inputs outputs of the ECU? That way it wouldn't drain and should just switch with the key?

I agree but - the outcome we really want is no drain.......even though I'd probably still leave it plugged in
The newer Euro4 machine schematics show the tachometer supply is switched , but the speedo is not. This could work , are you going to try it ?
 
In the interest of full disclosure, faaaaarking hell!!! After my (almost) gloating above about the Shorai battery and charger I had an ‘incident’ today. I live on the Sunshine Coast of Australia - for weeks now we’ve had enough rain to seriously consider building an ark (a Norton ark of course!).

So, very little riding has occurred. My expensive rolling artwork has been sat on it’s expensive stands, with its expensive battery on ‘store’ via its expensive charger. Thought I’d start her today - it’s how I ‘call up‘ the old boy (George) 2 doors down for a beer! Took her off ‘store‘ to press the charge button and got the northern lights flickering away - meaning, battery has dropped to a really low level! Selected ‘charge’ but it went back to two flickering lights. Grabbed my multimeter and checked the plug hidden in the rear left shock - Zero volts. Turned the ignition on - nothing. Rhymes with ‘clucking bell’!

Put the charger back on ’store’ and it returned to store voltage (80%) in 5 minutes. Then took an hour to complete the charge. Ignition on, she started like a champion! Result - decided to drink beer with George and worry about it in the morning!
 
What happened ? A connection issue at the battery plug ?
Really not sure Tony, can’t explain it. The weekend earlier I had gone to ‘charge’ (from ‘store’) to start the bike, but then got distracted - did’nt get the opportunity, so hit ‘store’ again and left it. Could have sworn that I checked that it had gone back into full ’store’ mode but maybe not. Either way, if the charger was neither in ‘store‘ or ‘charge’ it means that the battery dropped to very low levels over the period of one week. Wouldn’t have thought that would occur, even with significant parasitic drain.

I have since cycled through ‘store’ - ‘charge’ - start bike several times now and things seem to be back to normal. Love this machine, but very frustrating when you start to achieve some confidence in reliability and a prospective fault surfaces again just sufficient to knock that confidence.
 
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MAK - with it turning over quite quickly, can you check something?

After it turns over quickly but doesn’t start - when you stop cranking - a moment later do you hear a relay click in the tail?
Just checked…
Yes I do hear a click..
 
Just checked…
Yes I do hear a click..
Do your head lights come on when you turn on the key switch ? You have a head lights off during crank time relay , this will activate when you push the starter button , to turn off the headlight. And then the relay will drop out after you release the starter button. You may not notice it because you may have the headlight turned off with the bar switch. My headlight bar switch is locked on and I have not removed the stop inside.
 
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